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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-14-2012, 07:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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camry 100k, what else to do

i will be hitting 100k on my 2000 caamry le 4cyl. So these are the maintenance performed by me.

1. TB change along with water pump, idler, power steering belt, alt belt, oil seals
2. Power steering flush
3. Brake flush
4. differential and tranny drain, clean filter and fill (a full flush may be in next summer)
5. Brake fluid flush
6. Radiator flush
7. Seafoam (1/3 in tank, 1/3 in crank and 1/3 through brake booster)
8. spark plug with denso double platinum
9. Throttle body cleaned using TB cleaner sprayed (didnt take out the tb body)
10. New battery from Costco, New tires from costco.

All these are performed within 6-8 months.

All the above maintenance are done by me, all because of this forum and its much appreciated members like Fenixus,MrPerkins, JohnDG (to name a few) only, I didn't look anywhere else, not even the much recommended Hayen's manual.

Looking at some of the threads here, the only thing I am missing is the spark plug wire. I see some ngk ($29) and denso($39) on sale in amazon and ngk got better rating that denso. Which one you guys recommend? (or I don't need to change this now?)

Anything else that I missed in this 100k maintenance? Car runs without any issues, just as I drove it from the lot in 99.
(Oh still using Shell conventional oil, every 3k or 3to4 months) with purolator pureone filter)

Thank you TN
John
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Might just clean or replace the PVC as well. Check and replace the air filter and fuel filter (which is under the air box) With summer just around the corner in Texas, check the radiator cap and thermostat; but I rarely had those failed on me. As for the wires, I brought the blue NGK wire from Napa and are working fine. They are a strong and a bit thicker than the OEM "Sumimoto" wires but because of that, I had a bit of trouble fitting them into the wire separators on the valve cover. (The three little black plastics that holds them apart)

Seem like you took care of everything. Oh, and wash and wax it too.
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"Sandy" 2002 Camry 2AZ-FE/U241E @ 158k
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sounds good

as for wires I second NGK TE58, the best bang for the buck you can get, very cheap on amazon with free shipping

I would also take care of cooling system while doing water pump, you will be draining it anyways, so add the mentioned thermostat (with new gasket) and I also like having the new radiator cap (OEM or Stant) and new ECT sensor (this one can be done later if needed on 5s-fe, no coolant draining required).

how about your suspension and brakes?

at 100k miles you may need new sway bar end links and sway bushings. how are your struts?
as for brakes, you may need new rotors, or at least the current ones may call for resurfacing, but that is only if you plan on replacing pads too.
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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sounds good

as for wires I second NGK TE58, the best bang for the buck you can get, very cheap on amazon with free shipping

I would also take care of cooling system while doing water pump, you will be draining it anyways, so add the mentioned thermostat (with new gasket) and I also like having the new radiator cap (OEM or Stant) and new ECT sensor (this one can be done later if needed on 5s-fe, no coolant draining required).

how about your suspension and brakes?

at 100k miles you may need new sway bar end links and sway bushings. how are your struts?
as for brakes, you may need new rotors, or at least the current ones may call for resurfacing, but that is only if you plan on replacing pads too.
Thermostat was replaced during TB change. I checked brakes and it has almost 1/2 left in the pad. Rotor was replaced about 3 years back (non-oem)
Will get that NGK plug wires from amazon soon.

Dumb question: How do I check for sway bar, bushing and struts and what are the symptoms of bad sway bar, bushing and struts? Car doesn't squeal or anything. never noticed anything unusual. Let me know how to check these items.

Fuel filter is never changed, is it time to change that?
PVC also not cleaned or replaced. TO clean/replace, do you need to open the valve cover? (I have done it in the past on my other car, but before I tackle this, wanted to make sure I have the gasket and spark plug gaskets and torque wrench in hand)
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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They are a strong and a bit thicker than the OEM "Sumimoto" wires but because of that, I had a bit of trouble fitting them into the wire separators on the valve cover. (The three little black plastics that holds them apart)

Seem like you took care of everything. Oh, and wash and wax it too.
I already broke that three wire holding thingy. Can I get it from the dealer or autozone ? All my wires are now depends on the second three piece connector and when that break, I will be in big trouble,
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if you do not hear strange noises/squeaks when going over bumps especially when turning then probably sway bar bushings and end links are more or less still OK. if nothing is torn you can postpone it, it's just a comfort thing which improves car's body roll (sway) on turns.

worst and easiest sign of worn out struts is bounciness when going over bumps or a boaty feeling like you were sailing. simple test is to stand by each of car's corner on even road and firmly and briefly press on the car's corner down with your body weight and release observing. the car should return to normal position with just 1 bounce. anything more and it qualifies for replacement.

other symptoms of worn struts are nose of car going very deep on hard braking and nose going high up when accelerating hard.

also that wire holders you can get from dealer, they are cheap. I broke both of mine on wife's car, replaced them just last Summer finally
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'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't hear anything unusual noise or squealing on bump or turning. I will do the test on strut and see if it is ok. I am not experiencing the sailing motion on bumps though. (Since I have identical camrys, both feels the same on bumps and turning. So either they are ok or both are gone ) Will go to the dealer and get that wire thing for peace of mind. I don't want the spark plug wire touching the valve cover
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mail2_jb View Post
I don't hear anything unusual noise or squealing on bump or turning. I will do the test on strut and see if it is ok. I am not experiencing the sailing motion on bumps though. (Since I have identical camrys, both feels the same on bumps and turning. So either they are ok or both are gone ) Will go to the dealer and get that wire thing for peace of mind. I don't want the spark plug wire touching the valve cover

So, you're fixing this car up to sell?
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Check the radiator hoses. Maybe swap them out (and even other coolant hoses) during your next coolant drain. +1 on the fuel filter, rad cap, PCV valve/grommet, and plug wires.

Also check the engine mounts and lower control arm bushings for cracks. But if you don't hear squeaks the rubber suspension parts are probably still good for a while.

Be careful with the PCV grommet, it hardens with time and likes to crack apart and fall into the valve cover. That's why it's best to change these two when the cover is off for the valve cover gasket change. Otherwise have a needle nose plier, a small flat blade screwdriver, and maybe a hook tool handy and work slowly.
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