3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
1996 5SFE non-ABS.
Last month I replaced the brake pads with ceramic and put on new rotors and drums. I also had the driver side CV axle replaced. I went on a road trip over the holiday (over 1600 miles) and everything ran perfectly. Now when I drive around in neighborhoods for a long time(for about a hour or so) and make a lot of slow stops or slowing down something starts grinding on the front passenger side while I brake from 5 MPH to stop. It starts on the passenger side and then sometimes it will happen on the drivers side also. It will go away if I'm able to drive faster without stopping for about 5 minutes.
The first time this happened I pulled the brakes apart and I found nothing except it seemed to have a lot of heat radiating off of the rotors. The pins are lubed up and move freely. I can see no markings on the rotors or dust shield or pads. The grinding noise sounds too deep to be the dust shield. I feel no vibrations from the pedal or steering wheel when its grinding.
So is there something that grinds if the brakes get too hot?
Is it more of a heavy "rubbing" noise? If you come to a stop, then release the brake just a bit to allow the car t move, dose it produce the noise? I would allow the brakes to "bed in" or "brake in" for a little longer. It not the numbers of miles you put on the brakes for how often you use the brakes. I have re-machined rotors with ceramic pad and it took me 150 miles of hard braking to bed them in.
It not the numbers of miles you put on the brakes for how often you use the brakes. I have re-machined rotors with ceramic pad and it took me 150 miles of hard braking to bed them in.
he says hes driven 1500 miles already. sounds to me like something is wrong with the caliper, when the heat causes everything to expand i bet its binding up
How many miles do you have on the car? I'm gonna guess the brake lines are the original ones? They could be rotted inside and preventing the fluid from backing back out. They might be in need of replacement.
How did the old pads look? Were they worn normally or was one side/set worn unevenly?
When you put the new pads in...how did you compress the pistons? Did you open up the bleed valve when you compressed the pistons or did you just push them back in? What did you use to compress the pistons in?
How good is that brake fluid? Did you exchange all the fluid out fer fresh?
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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he says hes driven 1500 miles already. sounds to me like something is wrong with the caliper, when the heat causes everything to expand i bet its binding up
Makes sense. I wondered that but didn't know why it didn't happen before I changed the brakes. But now that I'm thinking about it when I first got the car I had the rotors turned and the shop said there were now almost out of spec. With new rotors and pads the caliper pistons are going to be riding on a different spot with it contracted in.
So now I hope it doesn't screw up the new rotors before I get my tax return and afford to change out the calipers.
he says hes driven 1500 miles already. sounds to me like something is wrong with the caliper, when the heat causes everything to expand i bet its binding up
He said 1600 road trip. I could put 1000 miles with only several use of the brake on a trip to Chicago. The real test on the brakes are in the city where there is hundred of brake cycle to heat them up.
How many miles do you have on the car? I'm gonna guess the brake lines are the original ones? They could be rotted inside and preventing the fluid from backing back out. They might be in need of replacement.
How did the old pads look? Were they worn normally or was one side/set worn unevenly?
When you put the new pads in...how did you compress the pistons? Did you open up the bleed valve when you compressed the pistons or did you just push them back in? What did you use to compress the pistons in?
How good is that brake fluid? Did you exchange all the fluid out fer fresh?
Only 169k. I didn't notice anything odd about the old pads but didn't really look to closely. I used a c-clamp and a old pad to compress the piston. After I had everything back together I replaced the brake fluid and gravity bleed the old fluid out of the lines. Until it was nice and clear. All 4 sides.
calipers might be bad. when was the brake fluid flushed for the last time? is it black color?
my original calipers on V6 (fluid was old coffee color) started dragging like hell after I swapped the pads with a new set. I did flush the fluid, but damage done was done irreversibly probably. not to mention some idiot using graphite (black molly) on slide pins that turned rock solid in NJ weather, scooped it out and re-greased pins several times (always finding them to stick/freeze), eventually gave up and ordered a new set of front remanufactured calipers with brackets (minus pads that I had almost new).
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How do you do that? I used the parking brake(on and off a few times) to make sure things were centered before I tightened the adjuster through the hole until the shoes were just touching the drum. And then checked and adjusted them again a week later. They seem to feel like they are doing the job and the brake lever is snug.
calipers might be bad. when was the brake fluid flushed for the last time? is it black color?
my original calipers on V6 (fluid was old coffee color) started dragging like hell after I swapped the pads with a new set. I did flush the fluid, but damage done was done irreversibly probably. not to mention some idiot using graphite (black molly) on slide pins that turned rock solid in NJ weather, scooped it out and re-greased pins several times (always finding them to stick/freeze), eventually gave up and ordered a new set of front remanufactured calipers with brackets (minus pads that I had almost new).
The brake fluid was a brown color before I flushed it.
The adjust should never allow the shoes to just touch the drums. They should be backed off a certain number of clicks as specified like on most parking brakes.
However, on these drums, where the parking brakes are integrated to the rear drum brakes, the proper way to adjust is to back them off completely (so the shoes are fully retracted) and extend the shoes by pulling repeatedly on the parking brake lever in the car.
Of course, you can double check the clearance by manually tightening the adjuster wheel and count how many clicks you got. And then back them off the same number you counted.
In side the car - how many clicks do you count on the brake lever before the parking brake is activated? Hopefully no less than 5-6.
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Originally Posted by #2!
How do you do that? I used the parking brake(on and off a few times) to make sure things were centered before I tightened the adjuster through the hole until the shoes were just touching the drum. And then checked and adjusted them again a week later. They seem to feel like they are doing the job and the brake lever is snug.
You're going to want to pull the pads off again and look at them closely. Look for cracks on the pad material. Don't ask me why but I cannot run raybestos QS series ceramic pads in my gen 4. I CRACK THEM.
Actually, I should probably say THEY CRACK because I never did find what I did wrong yet it happened to me twice, so I now use only the auto zone Duralast Gold and have had great luck with great bite! (the gen 4's need it)
Look for a fine crack or two on any one of the 4 pads. If you find any......THAT'S your grinding noise!!!
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1998 Camry 2.2L auto. 195,000 "mostly" trouble-free miles. She needs a little work but still purrs.
1995 Geo Prizm 1.6L. 165,000 "mostly" trouble-free miles. (need to sell soon)
2011 Venza 2.7L. 5,000 miles wondering if there ever was an NVH crew assigned to Venza
The adjust should never allow the shoes to just touch the drums. They should be backed off a certain number of clicks as specified like on most parking brakes.
However, on these drums, where the parking brakes are integrated to the rear drum brakes, the proper way to adjust is to back them off completely (so the shoes are fully retracted) and extend the shoes by pulling repeatedly on the parking brake lever in the car.
Of course, you can double check the clearance by manually tightening the adjuster wheel and count how many clicks you got. And then back them off the same number you counted.
In side the car - how many clicks do you count on the brake lever before the parking brake is activated? Hopefully no less than 5-6.
Ya I've only got about 3-4 clicks. So each time you pull the brake lever it ratchets the adjuster one tooth?? or how does that work if the car isn't moving?
I'm confused. If the rear brakes are tighter then what they should be then why would that cause excessive heat and grinding to come off of the front brakes?
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