3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I was wonder why the 94 Camry V6Le. I start the car and run it no-stop. Sudden there is a lot of heat out and after it getting cooler and cooler without stopping the car.
Engine heat, heat inside the vehicle, what are you trying to ask? Your question is very confusing on what you are trying to ask.
I start the car and let it run for 15 - 25 mins inside the garage. The Temp gearge show the car are all warm up. No heat comes out. 30 mins later start the car again heat come out very very hot. 10 mins later restart the car again heat is just cool not hot or warm. Continue testing it. Sometime have heat and most of the time it don't. I google it and maybe there are some air inside the Rad. or engine blocking it.
After work I might have to jack up the front and let the Camry running and see I can release
the air bubbles inside (I guess ).
A couple things. These cars do have a heater valve to control the flow of coolant and in turn the heat, if it sticks or doesn't operate as it should, it could cause the issue you speak of. first thing to do, is start the car, and set the temp to all the way cold, then pop the hood and locate the heater control valve, its at the fire wall and has a hose the runs to the firewall (heater core) and another that runs to the motor, it also has a stiff cable that attaches to the valve, locate this and make a mental note of the valve position, then set to hot, see if the valve has rotated any, it may rotate as much as 90 degrees to fully open. If it has not moved or not moved much, try to operate by hand, see if the valve or cable binds, if either does, there enlies your problem. If it operates as it should, next three thing that would dictate the heat are coolant level/air pocket presence, thermostat, water pump. With the engine otherwise cold, or hot if you're brave, and car parked on a fairly level surface, remove the cooling system cap (on engine) check level, if low, add till full, then start the car, with heat in the hot position, a/c off and vents so you can readily feel for air outlet temperature. Allow vehicle to run for 5-10 minutes. If there is any air pockets, they will work them selves out, most work themselves out just sitting as this is a very well designed cooling system. Now i Have to warn you, if the air pockets are large, as they come out they can cause coolant to spill so do this where you don't mind this happening, it wont stain but some localities frown on fluid spillage. If in 5-10 minutes your car does not warm up (temp gauge move to 1/4 position or better) and you have little to no heat, than you have a thermostat problem. If the gauge goes up, esp if it gets to about 1/2 position, the coolant it warm or hot and you have no heat, its probably the pump.
__________________
91 Isuzu Stylus XS 425k miles
95 Toyota Camry XLE V6 225k miles
91 Infiniti G20 316k miles RIP
91 Isuzu Impulse Wagon 667k miles RIP
The Following User Says Thank You to jgraham5481 For This Useful Post:
A couple things. These cars do have a heater valve to control the flow of coolant and in turn the heat, if it sticks or doesn't operate as it should, it could cause the issue you speak of. first thing to do, is start the car, and set the temp to all the way cold, then pop the hood and locate the heater control valve, its at the fire wall and has a hose the runs to the firewall (heater core) and another that runs to the motor, it also has a stiff cable that attaches to the valve, locate this and make a mental note of the valve position, then set to hot, see if the valve has rotated any, it may rotate as much as 90 degrees to fully open. If it has not moved or not moved much, try to operate by hand, see if the valve or cable binds, if either does, there enlies your problem. If it operates as it should, next three thing that would dictate the heat are coolant level/air pocket presence, thermostat, water pump. With the engine otherwise cold, or hot if you're brave, and car parked on a fairly level surface, remove the cooling system cap (on engine) check level, if low, add till full, then start the car, with heat in the hot position, a/c off and vents so you can readily feel for air outlet temperature. Allow vehicle to run for 5-10 minutes. If there is any air pockets, they will work them selves out, most work themselves out just sitting as this is a very well designed cooling system. Now i Have to warn you, if the air pockets are large, as they come out they can cause coolant to spill so do this where you don't mind this happening, it wont stain but some localities frown on fluid spillage. If in 5-10 minutes your car does not warm up (temp gauge move to 1/4 position or better) and you have little to no heat, than you have a thermostat problem. If the gauge goes up, esp if it gets to about 1/2 position, the coolant it warm or hot and you have no heat, its probably the pump.
Thank you for your information. I try all methods. I feel some heat now after I flush the Rad. but should be more. I guess there must be some air pocket inside. Even I jack the front end up and run the car for 10 - 15 mins. I have to do more testing. One thing before I flush the rad. I feel the upper rad. host are hot but the lower rad host are cold. I have to check this out tomorrow.
When the engine is cold, make sure the radiator is full and the overflow tank is at the "full cold" mark. You may not have to bother with jacking the car up.
The Following User Says Thank You to oldfirebird For This Useful Post:
When the thermostat is open the lower hose will be hot as the thermostat housing is where the lower hose is hooked up. Also, DON'T jack up the car. The only reason you would do that if the fill point was not the highest point in the cooling system. By jacking it up, you will upset that balance and the air will not come out. Also if your thermostat is stuck closed, the lower hose will be cold, esp if after you've run it for 10 minutes. While allowing the car to run, say as the gauge has gotten to 1/4 hot, race the engine to 2-3k rpms for 30-45 seconds, then allow it to idle, this should promote a quick heat up and if all is well, should open the thermostat and allow flow and air to come out.
__________________
91 Isuzu Stylus XS 425k miles
95 Toyota Camry XLE V6 225k miles
91 Infiniti G20 316k miles RIP
91 Isuzu Impulse Wagon 667k miles RIP
The Following User Says Thank You to jgraham5481 For This Useful Post:
When the thermostat is open the lower hose will be hot as the thermostat housing is where the lower hose is hooked up. Also, DON'T jack up the car. The only reason you would do that if the fill point was not the highest point in the cooling system. By jacking it up, you will upset that balance and the air will not come out. Also if your thermostat is stuck closed, the lower hose will be cold, esp if after you've run it for 10 minutes. While allowing the car to run, say as the gauge has gotten to 1/4 hot, race the engine to 2-3k rpms for 30-45 seconds, then allow it to idle, this should promote a quick heat up and if all is well, should open the thermostat and allow flow and air to come out.
Thanks ! Yep teh car on park and floor it to 4000 - 5000 rmp and the heat come out hot.
I am at work now. And will see later.
Thank you all for helpful information that money can't buy.
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