3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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After a few days looking for the problem why there are anti-freeze all over the place close
to the timing belt and water pump area.
Today I dry the car up and run it around 10 mins and the engine have no sign leaking
anti-freeze and sudden I see some anti-freeze split out...wow
AUto information : 1994 Camry is a V6LE
Leaking area : if you look at the Rad. cap area the metal part from the auto (silver color or metal color) are continue go toward the engine area. I found out there is another water hose there it look like the upper rad. hose mounted by a pressure clamp and I think there is a small hole there. When it build up the pressure it split the anti freeze out.
I was wonder how to access that area to replace that hose and what is that hose call.
Do I have to take the Black Engine cover out and the silver part (don't know what is call behine the black cover) to access. And where is that host connect to ?
That's the water bypass hose under the lower intake manifold. You have to tear things down to that point and remove the hose. Why Toyota put a rubber hose under all those fixed metal parts is beyond me. A bean counter must have come up with that.
You can buy the Gates hose from your local NAPA parts store or special order from the dealer. I personally prefer Gates hoses, so NAPA will do. They sell hoses in 1-foot increments, so some cutting is needed. A protective sleeve is needed but if the old one cracked off just slice open the old hose and use a segment of that as a sleeve. Otherwise just get the whole thing from the dealer.
You may need two new clamps if hose diameters are different. The job's not hard unless things are rusted on just a lot of work tearing it down. You can also find the needed tools from your local Harbor Freight (hex, torx bits, torque wrench, sockets, etc)
Leaking area : if you look at the Rad. cap area the metal part from the auto (silver color or metal color) are continue go toward the engine area. I found out there is another water hose there it look like the upper rad. hose mounted by a pressure clamp and I think there is a small hole there. When it build up the pressure it split the anti freeze out.
I was wonder how to access that area to replace that hose and what is that hose call.
Do I have to take the Black Engine cover out and the silver part (don't know what is call behine the black cover) to access. And where is that host connect to ?
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
Its a rubber hose because if it was a metal pipe with o-rings it would be harder to change, and those metal pipes tend to rot out. Your intake manifold gaskets are probably subtlely leaking too, you just don't notice and associate any slight coolant or performance loss with "its an old car". This is a blessing in disguise. The Intake manifold and plenum must come off to do this, so It's a good time to clean out your intake and plenum, clean out the egr path and the valve in the intake, it also makes the rear spark plugs and rear valve cover a breeze, you could also check your valve clearances on the rear head. If you take the time and take care of all the other maintenance opportunities while you're there, you and your car will truly appreciate it and run better for even longer.
__________________
91 Isuzu Stylus XS 425k miles
95 Toyota Camry XLE V6 225k miles
91 Infiniti G20 316k miles RIP
91 Isuzu Impulse Wagon 667k miles RIP
The Following User Says Thank You to jgraham5481 For This Useful Post:
Thanks you guy all for the information. How hard was that to take the intake manifold off.
Like take out 6 - 8 screw....etc
Look's to me that is the only way to access that hose. And I can't see the other end of
that water hose link to.
It's a lot more than 6-8 screws. It's not physically hard to remove the bolts, for example a 3/8" drive ratchet is enough as you don't need to deal with much more than 33-40 lb/ft of torque (takes more to loosen of course). Again you will need an assortment of hex/torx/sockets/extensions. There are some tight access spots for nuts/bolts but otherwise pretty straight forward.
You probably don't need to remove the EGR valve and just loosen the bolts/studs at the steel pipe below the intake (external torx "star" sockets needed for studs). No need to disconnect the fuel hose but gently tilt up the lower manifold (tie it with a string or use a stick to prop it up). Clean the area first and tape up the intake ports while working, you don't want sand and grit in your cylinders.
It will probably be easier for you if you order the hose and protective plastic coil (sleeve) from the dealer, as in the first link below. I don't know how much maintenance work you've done, but if you haven't done much of this kind of work, you might want to leave 2 free days before starting so you can work slow.
I'd take this time to change out the radiator hoses (Gates on rockauto) and even the thermostat (Stant 48128, $15.34 w/ gasket). And as mentioned the valve cover gaskets (Fel-Pro red silicone gaskets) too if you have time.
It's a lot more than 6-8 screws. It's not physically hard to remove the bolts, for example a 3/8" drive ratchet is enough as you don't need to deal with much more than 33-40 lb/ft of torque (takes more to loosen of course). Again you will need an assortment of hex/torx/sockets/extensions. There are some tight access spots for nuts/bolts but otherwise pretty straight forward.
You probably don't need to remove the EGR valve and just loosen the bolts/studs at the steel pipe below the intake (external torx "star" sockets needed for studs). No need to disconnect the fuel hose but gently tilt up the lower manifold (tie it with a string or use a stick to prop it up). Clean the area first and tape up the intake ports while working, you don't want sand and grit in your cylinders.
It will probably be easier for you if you order the hose and protective plastic coil (sleeve) from the dealer, as in the first link below. I don't know how much maintenance work you've done, but if you haven't done much of this kind of work, you might want to leave 2 free days before starting so you can work slow.
I'd take this time to change out the radiator hoses (Gates on rockauto) and even the thermostat (Stant 48128, $15.34 w/ gasket). And as mentioned the valve cover gaskets (Fel-Pro red silicone gaskets) too if you have time.
Wow with my skill I don't think I can handle that take that many parts out just to replace a water hose (what a bad design). I took a few photos but don't know how to upload here.
I was wonder how many hr and shop cost to repair by a shop to get this fix.
The book rate may be more but my guess is it shouldn't take experienced mechanics more than 2-3 hours just to swap out the hose. As I said a rubber hose under all those metal parts. Only a bean counter could have come up with that.
So are you sure you're not going to give it a try? You don't have to remove the valve cover if only changing the hose, so the DIYs look a lot more complex than it needs to be.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
The book rate may be more but my guess is it shouldn't take experienced mechanics more than 2-3 hours just to swap out the hose. As I said a rubber hose under all those metal parts. Only a bean counter could have come up with that.
So are you sure you're not going to give it a try? You don't have to remove the valve cover if only changing the hose, so the DIYs look a lot more complex than it needs to be.
I don't know my skill is good enough to handle this. To replace that water hose I need to take that black plastic cover off which is easy. And then the intake manifold for sure to access the hose and how hard I don't know. The prev. post show scare me a little that I have to take out the Valve cover too which I think is no need. But I can't see the other end of the water hose lead.
If there is some link to show me how to take the intake manifold off step by step will be great.
If there is some link to show me how to take the intake manifold off step by step will be great.
The part is called the Coolant Bypass Hose, and you need to remove much more than just the intake manifold. Here's Pmesfun's epic thread on how to do it, the valve cover gaskets, and much more. Good pics of the coolant bypass hose and where it is located, towards the bottom of the first page.
Once the AICS is removed you will have to remove the injector rack, and associated plumbing, and then the actual intake manifold that the AICS is bolted to. (The AICS is sometimes referred to as the intake plenum)
Many gaskets need to be replaced, as well as the Cooant Bypass Hose, and although JohnGD is the undisputed expert here, I don't see how it can be done in 3 hours. But a call to a couple local dealers and independent mechanics will give you a better idea of the time and cost involved. Be sure to confirm, re-confirm, that they are talking about the Coolant Bypass Hose. Tell them it's the one located next to the Knock Sensors.
I'm thinking $500-$700 would be a good estimate. Be sure that they quote new gaskets, and not to reuse the old ones.
Mechanics secret... never remove more than you have to, especially if it will require more parts that rarely go bad. don't ever remove the fuel rail unless you have to, because its easier to remove the lines from the rail or filter, or do like I did and just lift up,turn it upside down, towards the drivers side and less has to come off. If you remove the rail, you may break an injector o-ring, and if you're not careful, could break an injector.
__________________
91 Isuzu Stylus XS 425k miles
95 Toyota Camry XLE V6 225k miles
91 Infiniti G20 316k miles RIP
91 Isuzu Impulse Wagon 667k miles RIP
The Following User Says Thank You to jgraham5481 For This Useful Post:
you can access the hose by simply unbolting the intake manifold (after taking off the intake hose, plenum, etc. etc.) and then simply lifting the manifold and hold it up using a stick.
take a look at a thread that I posted years and years ago:
As mentioned, the idea is to remove as few parts as you can to do the job. So don't remove the valve cover if OP isn't replacing them (but it would be a good time to do so while in there and reseal the semi-circular plugs, it's sooner or later); don't remove the cables from the throttle body bracket, remove the 2 bolts and the entire bracket after detaching the cable ends; don't remove the throttle body from the upper plenum, just disconnect the hoses after draining a few quarts of coolant (reuse if you have a clean catch pan); don't take off the EGR valve if the intake can be lifted off with it attached to the steel pipe or to the intake (depending on rust, nuts/studs or bolts removed); and while it's recommended to replace, the metal gaskets can be reused at least once. etc etc.
The hose itself is about $15-20. The valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals is about $20 (Fel-Pro VS50471R). A tube of Permatex Ultra-Black or Ultra-Copper is about $9 (or a smaller tube of dollar store high temp sensor-safe RTV, about $1). OP can think about the hundreds of dollars saved.
I know the task can be daunting if not tried before. But with a help of mechanically inclined friend it's doable as I said if OP leaves 2 free days to work slowly and methodically. Many members here started in similar ways when trying to fix problems.
The found out the leak are just right after that pressure clamp. I can't find the right tool
that I can reach into that small hole and more the clamp backward a little will fix it (I guess)
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