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Old 01-21-2012, 11:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Sudden leak near differential...need identification

I've got a fairly sudden and aggressive leak on the driver's side of the differential, between it and the CV boot. What causes this leak and what is the procedure to fix it? The suspension on this car is new ground for me.

('94 4 cylinder 5sfe)

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Old 01-21-2012, 11:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Axle oil seal? If so the ATF is coming from between the diff and the inner CV tulip. The CV boot itself doesn't contain ATF.
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
Axle oil seal? If so the ATF is coming from between the diff and the inner CV tulip. The CV boot itself doesn't contain ATF.
I noticed there is a slight leak out of the other side's round differential seal as well. A few months ago I drained and replaced the fluid, and now it's suspicious that both sides are leaking, as if there was too much pressure. I don't think I could have added too much fluid since it goes up to the fill hole and anything above it drips out. Ugh.

I don't see a DIY for this driver's side axle seal...any tips or order of events that one would follow to tackle this repair?
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I found Kocho's writeup here, detailing removal of transmission, which includes good pics for this part. I've also got the toyota manual to look thru. Sounds like this side is much easier than the passenger side, that's good.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I would have to say JohnGD could be right here.
Although when I had done this on a freshly rebuilt e153, the mechanic had forgotten to swap the new ones in with to replace the old ones. Swapping them out was a complete nightmare.
It appears to look easy based on those pictures, but I'm guessing the install is basically the same where you have to take out a plate (that is essentially part of the tranny case housing) and swap them out. Not sure about the other side on that tranny though.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Output shaft seal. Replace it. Leak should be gone!

Sent from my SGH-T839 using AutoGuide.Com Free
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn View Post
detailing removal of transmission,
I hope you don't think you need to remove the transmission to fix this?
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
I hope you don't think you need to remove the transmission to fix this?
I just used his pics of that portion of the work for reference.
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Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 01-22-2012 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't have the greatest ease of access to my transmission, so here's what I was able to take...
That almost looks like a retainer similar to the Rear Main Seal...



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Old 01-22-2012, 03:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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For most of the part the DIY of replacing the seals will be the same as the one for replacing the axles for obvious reasons. It's at the end of the removal that you pry out the seals.

The seals do not require the removal of the retaining plates. I just leave them there because as they say the less you remove the better. But the removal of the plates will probably make installation easier, not sure if you need ATF-safe RTVs or not otherwise it may leak. If you leave the plates in there then make sure to pick up suitable sized PVC tubes/couplers from Home Depot (usually $1-2 each) so you can gently hammer the seals back in, just don't hammer too far it's easy to do that. Bring the seals to match sizes and just push the dust lip in to fit into the tube so you hammer on the hidden metal flange under the rubber. Apply a small amount of assembly lube to the seal lip and the axle contact surface. (I use very little engine assembly lube because I don't have TransGel on hand). Or ATF should do. Running on a dry seal ruins it very quickly.

A seal puller may have clearance problems, but if there is room it works great because of the leverage. Otherwise a screwdriver will work too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

You can buy the seals from the dealer or try your local Transtar Industries transmission supply warehouse. Call them up to see if they are in stock. Pick up a strainer and ATF pan gasket while there too. Otherwise parts stores can special order.
http://www.transtar1.com/locations.asp

Sample pictures, right side, $3.62 0523527:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=499287
Left side, $8.45 0523615:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=498997
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieRichJP View Post
I don't have the greatest ease of access to my transmission, so here's what I was able to take...
That almost looks like a retainer similar to the Rear Main Seal...


Thanks. The shaft seal sits right inside the lip of that hole?
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
For most of the part the DIY of replacing the seals will be the same as the one for replacing the axles for obvious reasons. It's at the end of the removal that you pry out the seals.

The seals do not require the removal of the retaining plates. I just leave them there because as they say the less you remove the better. But the removal of the plates will probably make installation easier, not sure if you need ATF-safe RTVs or not otherwise it may leak. If you leave the plates in there then make sure to pick up suitable sized PVC tubes/couplers from Home Depot (usually $1-2 each) so you can gently hammer the seals back in, just don't hammer too far it's easy to do that. Bring the seals to match sizes and just push the dust lip in to fit into the tube so you hammer on the hidden metal flange under the rubber. Apply a small amount of assembly lube to the seal lip and the axle contact surface. (I use very little engine assembly lube because I don't have TransGel on hand). Or ATF should do. Running on a dry seal ruins it very quickly.

A seal puller may have clearance problems, but if there is room it works great because of the leverage. Otherwise a screwdriver will work too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

You can buy the seals from the dealer or try your local Transtar Industries transmission supply warehouse. Call them up to see if they are in stock. Pick up a strainer and ATF pan gasket while there too. Otherwise parts stores can special order.
http://www.transtar1.com/locations.asp

Sample pictures, right side, $3.62 0523527:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=499287
Left side, $8.45 0523615:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=498997
Great, the part #'s are appreciated.


I'm wondering which special tools I will need for this process beyond a seal puller and pitman arm puller that Kocho mentions - anything else? (Transtar is nearby too, great to know.)
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Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 01-23-2012 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn View Post
Thanks. The shaft seal sits right inside the lip of that hole?
It looks like it does. Too damn dark to be 100% sure.
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