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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-28-2012, 07:59 AM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation insufficient/excessive egr flow+irradic idle?**UPDATE/FIX**

First post and ill cut straight to the point. 2001 toyta camy 2.2L 184k auto tranny, has been maintained and taken care of for the most part. Im getting codes p0401and p0402(insufficient and excessive egr flow) and sometimes I have irradic idle(almost dieing at some points).

Heres what I have replaced:
VSV (found the old one to bad by checking with meter)
Modulator(old one a bit clogger but not bad)
EGR

Ive cleaned all vacuum lines in the egr system
lines are not cracked or collapsing
cleaned the throttle body completely(all egr passages)
cleaned the IAC valve(was a bit gummed up)


What should I do next? still getting the codes within driving an hour or so. Next step is to take to get it diagnosed. I have access to a junkyard that has camrys in it as well as a buddy working at an autoparts store getting me discounts on parts and another buddy that is a good mechanic. I told the mechanic everything that I have done he is saying take it to get it diaged to not waist anymore time or moeny. Let me know what you think, thanks.

Last edited by Littledevilxj; 02-08-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you checked the sensor that is detecting the insufficient/excessive conditions? With replacing the EGR valve, it would seem you've eliminated its sticking open/closed as the reason for the codes. BTW, the system is using the MAP sensor for that purpose.

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Old 01-28-2012, 09:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I did test the MAP sensor I believe and its working.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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anybody?
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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bump
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Try checking the pressure reading on your EGR Module. It's the one left of the EGR valve. I had the same code and I found out it was my EGR Module that was lacking the correct pressure. Plus the EGR Module is WAY cheaper to buy and fix yourself at home. It's only $80 at your local dealer, probably cheaper at online stores.

Seems like your mechanic doesn't know how to diagnose a simple EGR problem code. If he has a certain tool that checks AOP, airs of pressure, he can pinpoint it where it flows insufficiently/excessively. My mechanic found out within a minute with that and replaced it for me in five minutes and now the code doesn't show up anymore and I passed my smog test.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I replaced the egr module. I found one port(can't remember which one) was kinda hard to blow through so I bought a new one after trying to clean it out with no luck. I haven't brought the car to my off duty mechanic, only talked to him on the phone.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You should have him check all the vacuum hoses and see which one is clogged up and which one isn't doing it's job. It'll save you money and headaches quicker.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I blew through all the hoses and made sure they are clear. Should I get them checked anyways?
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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What did you use to blow through them? Blowing through them and checking the pressure with a hand vacuum pump is different. Each vacuum line gives out a certain amount of pressure and each one tells you how much pushes/retains that pressure. This should help you pinpoint where exactly the problem is.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Just wanted to update this post for everyone.

I originally found the VSV to be bad after testing it. I ordered one off ebay, a china made cheap one. I put it in without testing it and started driving with no change. I started looking elsewhere

I took it to have a diagnostic ran on it at the dealer, they cut me a deal for $50. They told me it was the VSV. Right then I knew I needed to pull it off and check it. Went home pulled it off and put 12v on it and couldnt hear the plunger move!!! I was happy and mad at the same time. I had just found my problem.

The problem: the metal casing holding the VSV together was clamped to tight, not allowing the plunger to move inside! I put it back together but not as tight and sodered the bracket together instead of spreading the clamp things.

PROBLEM GONE!!!!

point of story, dont buy cheap VSVs from ebay, pay for a true toyota part.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Littledevilxj View Post
Just wanted to update this post for everyone.

I originally found the VSV to be bad after testing it. I ordered one off ebay, a china made cheap one. I put it in without testing it and started driving with no change. I started looking elsewhere

I took it to have a diagnostic ran on it at the dealer, they cut me a deal for $50. They told me it was the VSV. Right then I knew I needed to pull it off and check it. Went home pulled it off and put 12v on it and couldnt hear the plunger move!!! I was happy and mad at the same time. I had just found my problem.

The problem: the metal casing holding the VSV together was clamped to tight, not allowing the plunger to move inside! I put it back together but not as tight and sodered the bracket together instead of spreading the clamp things.

PROBLEM GONE!!!!

point of story, dont buy cheap VSVs from ebay, pay for a true toyota part.
I'm curious. What was the difference in prices?
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Not sure exactly, I know that I only payed $17 for it.
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