3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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i'm not a mechanic, trying to install myself. (did 2 so far). There is a clip on the non-spark plug side. whats the easiest way to get it off? with flat screwdriver? Its very tight.
4 cylinder? yeah, that tiny clip is easiest to gently pry off (by slightly rotating the screw driver blade) with a flat screw driver, just don't break it. that's what I do every time on 5s-fe when unplugging spark plug wires.
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
If yer replacing the wires...it shouldn't matter if you break off the old ones...
I just use some plies to crush the old connector and then it comes out. Make sure you are using some dielectric grease to lube up the boots so they don't stick when it comes time to pull them. It also helps seal out the elements to keep the connections from corroding. It only takes the small packet to coat the boots...less than $1.50 from the parts store.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Just replaced my wires with 4 NGK from advanced auto parts ($24 with some online coupon)
I used a flat head screwdriver to pry up the little lock tab on the spark plug wire and pulled up.
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2000 Camry 4 Cyl, LE, 99,983 miles
2000 Camry 4 Cyl, LE, 83,486 Miles
If yer replacing the wires...it shouldn't matter if you break off the old ones...
I just use some plies to crush the old connector and then it comes out.
+1
I changed out my wires a few weeks ago and had the worst trouble getting those plastic tabs to disengage -- ended up just wedging a screw driver under the plug wire boots and snapping them. Doesn't really matter if it's an old cable...
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1993 Camry LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 145K
Just as an added note on why you need to use the dielectric grease...check out my entry on this thread...with piccies! Replacing spark plugs (5vzfe)...
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Just as an added note on why you need to use the dielectric grease...check out my entry on this thread...with piccies! Replacing spark plugs (5vzfe)...
shoot, when I changed the wires last week, didn't do this. Gonna get some dielectric grease next week. You said to put the grease on both ends of the wire, confused here. I read somewhere to put the grease only on the white part of the spark plug and shouldn't put anything where the metal is contacting the wire. The other end of the wire is all metal, plugging into the distributor(?), so where to put the grease on that end?
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2000 Camry 4 Cyl, LE, 99,983 miles
2000 Camry 4 Cyl, LE, 83,486 Miles
shoot, when I changed the wires last week, didn't do this. Gonna get some dielectric grease next week. You said to put the grease on both ends of the wire, confused here. I read somewhere to put the grease only on the white part of the spark plug and shouldn't put anything where the metal is contacting the wire. The other end of the wire is all metal, plugging into the distributor(?), so where to put the grease on that end?
You should -- unless someone has better advice -- just put some of the grease lining the inside of the spark plug boot. You'll be able to tell how far back is too far.
Anyone disagree?
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1993 Camry LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 145K
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