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Why is it hard to rotate crankshaft pulley at one point each circle?
Hello all, I just replaced the timing belt and put everything back. I hand cranked the damper a couple turns to make sure every two turns when the camshaft mark hole aligned with the "v" notch, the crankshaft pulley also aligned to TDC ("v" on the pulley to the "0" on the low cover). But there's a problem, during each hand turn, there's certain point (not TDC) that I couldn't just use a small ratchet to turn anymore, had to change to a break bar to pass it, then everything worked fine again. With all spark plugs out, I don't really understand why this was happening, and I don't remember whether had this problem before I took off everything since that's a long time ago. So what could be possibly wrong?
thanks, but I forgot to mention that it actually happened even before I put the belt on the cam. So basically I found this problem when I tried to align the crankshaft marks. At first, I didn't think too much, thought as long as everything aligned I should be fine. But now I am a little bit hesitated.
are your spark plugs still in place? even if the cam isnt turning, some valves are probably closed on a cylinder and the pressure you are feeling is from that cylinder compressing the air. take the plugs out and it should rotate 360 degrees without resistance.
*edit* sorry, i mis-read your post. i dont know why it doesnt turn freely with the plugs removed. i believe mine did?
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Last edited by ghettosled; 01-29-2012 at 08:53 PM.
Reason: misread original post
It's probably a light film of rust that accumulated in the piston bores. You mentioned that you had the spark plugs removed, that exposes the metal to the air as well as some of the valves are bound to be open.
The longer you took the more potential for rust to build up. If you did the timing belt job at one shot, in one day, it's unlikely that rust would had a chance to build up.
But if you did it over a period of days, and maybe it rained during that time, then there is a good chance that there is a thin film of rust in the cylinder walls, above the pistons where they sat for a period of time. When you rotate the crank, and the rings hit that film, that will cause the drag that you see at that one spot.
It's nothing to worry about. The rings will scrape it off in the first minutes after it starts. It wouldn't hurt to spray some sort of lubricant in there like WD-40 before you start it up to help with the initial lubrication. It might be hard to start, though.
Search for "Artie In Maimi", he had the same problem. He was in Florida and he said it was raining a lot. He couldn't even turn the motor over at all once it hit the rusted spot.
I just went back to read the book again. Here's one thing I missed: the timing belt guide. I believe I only slide it in without taking care of the belt! Thought it was just something like a washer. That might be the reason I had trouble to turn the crankshaft alone. It reads "the belt guide should be installed with the tooth marks in contact with the timing belt and the cupped side facing". However, I do believe it came off naturally without contact with belt when I pulled the pulley out . Will it be actually held by the belt? I don't even remember it has a cupped side. Well, I'll redo it again this weekend. And clean some dirt as well, it has been more than a month now. Hate to work outside in the winter.
yup, I had the same problem after I left the engine open (valve cover loose, plugs out, timing covers off) for 1 night to finish the job the next day
however I didn't have to spray anything to overcome the tension on crank pulley, but it was much more resistant the next day too
Quote:
Originally Posted by njsss
Thank you ajkalian, that's exactly the problem! Pull in some oil as Artie did. Everything runs smooth again!
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