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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-02-2012, 07:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Idle problem

Camry 95 2.2l Automatic 240000km.
Car well maintained and was very reliable until idle problem started few months ago and deteriorated to the level that now need to be fixed. Installed new spark plugs, cables, cap, rotor, PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter. Cleaned and tested fuel injectors. Cleaned throttle body and IAC valve inside and out and installed with a new gasket. After all repairs the idle is still erratic and engine almost stalling when stopped at the lights.
I uploaded a video of engine idling at this location:

Thank you for any helpful suggestions.
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Vacuum leak(s), EGR
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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EGR, that's a $400! part. Is there any way to test it or repair it?
Thanks
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Remove it and clean it.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Stillrunning.
Today I removed EGR (Toyota part #25620-74240) and the gas temperature sensor that is screwed right into the EGR, and cleaned it all very well. Also removed IAC valve ( Toyota part # 89621-16020) and cleaned it again and tested with battery. After that engine works better but when wormed up the same thing started to happen - erratic idle. What next?
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd start looking for vacuum leaks. It's a little tedious but it doesn't take much of one to cause bad idle. I assume no issues when off idle?

You can use propane to search (search You Tube) and see if idle rises at any particular spot. You might also want to put a can or two of injector cleaner into the gas, it's possible it's a bad spray pattern on one injector. With 240km I doubt anyone has taken out the injectors for a professional cleaning??

Does the idle sound like a miss or is it just rough? You may be able to narrow it down to one cylinder (if a miss) by removing one plug wire at a time to see if the idle changes - no change on any particular plug would point to that cylinder creating the problem.

Also check PCV line for cracks, leaks.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi Stillrunning,
the injectors were taken out, cleaned and checked. It has a new PCV and the hose.
It doesn't sound like a miss, it's more like choking without the air. Engine runs well off idle.
I tried the propane test but could not find anything wrong.
I'll take your advice and start looking for vacuum leaks. Should I buy a vacuum gauge or is there another way to check vacuum?
In the manual there is a VSV - Vacuum Switching Valve but I can't locate it on my engine.
Thanks
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadean View Post
I tried the propane test but could not find anything wrong. I'll take your advice and start looking for vacuum leaks.
The propane was the test for vacuum leaks.

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In the manual there is a VSV - Vacuum Switching Valve but I can't locate it on my engine.
I haven't had a need to find it. I think it's hidden behind the intake. You can trace it using the vacuum line coming off the top of EGR. It would only be a problem if it was holding the EGR open a little causing your vacuum leak.

Trace the vacuum line from the charcoal canister to a valve (TVV) which will then run to the intake of the throttle body. Disconnect the vac line from the throttle body and plug both ends of the vac line. Then see if idle improves.

I'd also do a hot engine compression test.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I spend some time this weekend on testing the vacuum with a gauge. EGR, Vacuum Modulator, and VSV pass the test. Also OK are A-C Idle-up valve, MAP sensor and EGR temp sensor. Next I am going to check a TVV connection to the throttle body as suggested and then fuel pressure, but i am not sure how to connect the gauge.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have a problem. Maybe similar. Except the stalling.
For example when I come to a complete stop. Then i start driving,the car lags. Hesitates for a bit and then at higher Rpm's it will just run fine. At start-up the Engine shakes for a bit then stops until its all warmed-up.

Things i have checked and clean.
.The Throttle Body
.Cleaned the injectors(of course with new o-rings.)
.Changed the fuel filter
.Checked the fuel pump
.CHecked for Vacuum leaks
.Spark Plugs were checked(I order spark plug wire set so they will be put on later these week)
Changed the Distributor Cap
Can it be the ignition Coil?
Ill check the EGR later on. Someone told me it can be a bad Catalytic Converter. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I want to sea-foam the car to see if it can help.

oh btw. ITs a 93 camry 3vz-fe.

Of Course ill keep checking through the forums for any solutions.
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Last edited by razr988; 02-20-2012 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razr988 View Post
I have a problem. Maybe similar. Except the stalling.
For example when I come to a complete stop. Then i start driving,the car lags. Hesitates for a bit and then at higher Rpm's it will just run fine. At start-up the Engine shakes for a bit then stops until its all warmed-up.

Things i have checked and clean.
.The Throttle Body
.Cleaned the injectors(of course with new o-rings.)
.Changed the fuel filter
.Checked the fuel pump
.CHecked for Vacuum leaks
.Spark Plugs were checked(I order spark plug wire set so they will be put on later these week)
Changed the Distributor Cap
Can it be the ignition Coil?
Ill check the EGR later on. Someone told me it can be a bad Catalytic Converter. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I want to sea-foam the car to see if it can help.

oh btw. ITs a 93 camry 3vz-fe.

Of Course ill keep checking through the forums for any solutions.
With those symptoms, it could be a lot of things.

It could be the plug wires you're about to replace. How old are the ones on it now? For that matter, how old are the plugs? I know you said you checked them, but in my opinion it's hard to tell by visual inspection if they're good or not. The recommended replacement interval is 100k miles if platinum plugs are used.

When the dist cap was replaced, was the rotor also replaced?

It could be the ignition coil. But that's a low probability in my opinion. On this motor, it's located on the driver's-side strut tower. Right behind (towards the driver) the air filter housing.

Seafoaming might help.

You might try cleaning the IAC valve. Here's a thread showing how it's done.

Is the check engine light on?

I doubt it's the cat. Usually when they're plugged, it won't run well at higher RPM. The opposite of your problem.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR View Post
With those symptoms, it could be a lot of things.

It could be the plug wires you're about to replace. How old are the ones on it now? For that matter, how old are the plugs? I know you said you checked them, but in my opinion it's hard to tell by visual inspection if they're good or not. The recommended replacement interval is 100k miles if platinum plugs are used.

When the dist cap was replaced, was the rotor also replaced?

It could be the ignition coil. But that's a low probability in my opinion. On this motor, it's located on the driver's-side strut tower. Right behind (towards the driver) the air filter housing.

Seafoaming might help.

You might try cleaning the IAC valve. Here's a thread showing how it's done.

Is the check engine light on?

I doubt it's the cat. Usually when they're plugged, it won't run well at higher RPM. The opposite of your problem.
Honest. I dont know how old are they. I haven't had the car for too long. So yeah. That will be replaced either way. I did notice when on dark. The spark plug wires show a blue flash around the wires. I was told that was a bad sign of bad plug wires.

Yes. The rotor was replaced also.
Thanks. I know were the coil is at now. But thanks again.

Yea. Seafoaming should be done soon.
Sorry i forgot to mention. I cleaned the IAC. I used that thread.lol

The Check engine has always been on. Thats because of a bad ABS sensor
Might have to check again for codes.

Yea that's what i thought. My problem is the opposite.

UPDATE: I cleaned the EGR and it wasn't clogged. Just a bit dirty. I put everything back and took it for a spin. It was good at first!( i was happy thinking i fixed the problem.lol) Couple minutes later. Came back with the same problem. Less lag though for sure.
Here a more detail of how it goes.
I come to a complete stop.(redlight, stop sign.)
I accelerate: First gear okay just a bit lag.
Around 30mph i can step on the acceleration all the way down and it would take its sweet time to speed up. Around 45mph seems to run just fine.
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Last edited by razr988; 02-21-2012 at 06:01 PM.
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