No start problem this morning.

[bjamick]

Well this morning my 93 camry decided not to start for some reason. It is a 93 4 cyl. I did a complete tune up 5k miles ago including dist cap, rotor button, plugs, and wires, fuel filter, PCV valve, Cleaned EGR, throttle body, and IAC.

Anyways so I grab my stethoscope and start at the fuel pump. No sound at all. So I went to the fuse box under the hood. All the relays click when key is turned on. I grabbed my multi-meter and checked the wiring at the connector of the fuel pump. There is not 12V at the Blue/wt wire, which according to the wiring diagram I looked at is the 12v supply from the relay. So I changed the $50 relay thinking that was it. Went ahead and changed the fuel pump bc I think it's the original and 223k miles its prob done.

Anyways so now after all this when I turn the key all the way where the engine is not cranking, the fuel pump does not turn on . When I try to start it, I hear the pump vaguely come on. Until I let off the key and then I hear the pump working louder. I thought when the key was turned almost all the way, right before it starts cranking, the fuel pump was supposed to come on for like 2 sec?

Any thoughts? I've given up for the night. I guess I'll check for spark tomorrow but I'm almost positive it's fuel related .

[JohnGD]

Before changing a relay try testing it first. there is a coil side (printed on the relay as wiggly lines) that when you apply + and - to them, the contact side clicks and gives you continuity on the contact pins.

If you have a no-crank then it's probably electrical. At least this is one of the problems. Check for battery voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to Start. Then pull the starter relay, on the socket (coil contacts) check for battery voltage when you turn the ignition to Start. Does it?

If these don't check out, then check the neutral safety switch (auto) or clutch start switch (manual), etc etc. You should at least be able to crank the engine. The battery voltage is good and fully charged, right?

[bjamick]

Thank you for your reply JohnGD. I did not actually check the relay, just replaced it. It just seemed weird that the fuel pump seemed very weak while cranking. Oh and yes the engine will crank, and cranks quickly as the battery was replaced just last year.

As for checking the starter solenoid, where might it be at? Does it look like a ford solenoid?

I would like to see the voltage coming out of the Ign Sw as that was my next mode of attack. Either that or the ECM, bc both send power to the fuel pump. I didn't have any starting fluid to try out either to see if it would start on that. May try that today to.

I'll also try and test those relays to make sure they are working.

I appreciate all the help, thanks TN.

[bjamick]

Quick question, how do the fuel pumps work? When I turn the key to run but not actually start the car should the fuel pump prime? Or does it only turn on once I actually start cranking the car?

I ask bc mine is not priming until after I quit cranking and turn it back to run position. While cranking like I said the pump has a faint whine, but when I quit cranking it pump make a considerably louder whine.

[bjamick]

Guess no one has any ideas on what to check out. I just changed out the igniter with one of an old parts car. I read the sticky about checking ohms on it, but it shows a 2 pin and my igniter is a 4 or 5 pin.

[JohnGD]

The starter relay the square box on the starter, it also works as the pinion gear plunger when energized, so no it's not like the Ford solenoid which is typically mounted on the fender in the engine bay.

But if the engine is NOT cranking when you turned the key all the way then starter is where I'd start. Checking for voltage at the solenoid may be easier because you don't have to go under the driver console. If there is no voltage there then check upstream. If there is votlage there then check downstream.

See also:
Starter Solenoid Contacts Replacement DIY (2000 I4)

As far as fuel pump operation I'm not sure when it start to operate. Maybe it's different from domestics where they start to prime when the key is on. I have to check into this.

Originally Posted by bjamick

Thank you for your reply JohnGD. I did not actually check the relay, just replaced it. It just seemed weird that the fuel pump seemed very weak while cranking. Oh and yes the engine will crank, and cranks quickly as the battery was replaced just last year.

As for checking the starter solenoid, where might it be at? Does it look like a ford solenoid?

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by bjamick

Oh and yes the engine will crank, and cranks quickly as the battery was replaced just last year.

I guess I'll check for spark tomorrow

Originally Posted by bjamick

Guess no one has any ideas on what to check out.

Did you ever check for spark, if not that's the place to start.

[bjamick]

I just got through changing the whole distributor from the parts car also. Still no dice.

I know it's getting spark, bc I stuck a screwdriver into the plug wire then grabbed hold of it and then turned the key. It gave a nice shock. Pulled a plug and it was wet with fuel.

So fuel + Spark + compression and yet still not running. I've advanced and retarded the timing and still no dice. I've tried turning the dist 180* but it won't slide into the cam but one way it seems.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by bjamick

It gave a nice shock.

It'll give a nice shock with not enough spark to light the fuel. Ground a plug to verify what quality spark you're getting. Have to tried holding the gas pedal to the floor while trying to start it?

[bjamick]

Yes I held it to the floor and tried to start it. Still no dice. I'm thinking the timing belt possibly jumped a few teeth.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by bjamick

timing belt possibly jumped a few teeth.

Got a timing light?

[bjamick]

I do not have a timing light, nor have I ever actually used one. Only watched my dad use those things.