3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
99 camry mystery electircal ghost! no start... admins/gurus!!!
ok guys. i've been on this thread for some time and i haven't seen anyone w/ the issue i'm having.
*back story* i was having a terminal connection issue recently. wouldn't crank, moved terminals around then it would.
the starter recently was replaced after going bad.
but now the car wont start at all. it wont even crank. it isn't starter, alternator, battery starter fuse, ignition fuse and relay/fuse box seem to be fine. and it it wont jump.
everything works from radio to fuel pump and all accessory systems. i've talked to some of the solora guys in my area and they said it might b my shifter assembly. i haven't the slightest idea of how to test it. i started to think the engine had seized.
i did have a glimmer of hope it cranked w/o the intake connected. then it died but hasn't cranked since. i did finally buy a volt meter and notice w/ the battery fully connected my charge was decreasing.(short?)
i hate/don't fully understand electricity and how things work but i do enjoy performance modding. its been 10 days. i'm sad
any of you older cats or even electric gurus send me in the right direction. i'll stop doing this ----->
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loves it when i make ppl regret not downshifting ;-)
TRUST YOUR DRIVER RESPECT YOUR MONKEY
do you have an extra battery to swap in? i've had bad connection on the battery and even bad batteries have similar symptoms. if not, really wrench on those connections. even though they are tight enough to run the accessories, there might not be enough connection to crank the car. it takes a lot to turn the motor.
also pop off the cap on the battery. are the water levels almost to the top where they should be?
since fiddling with the intake made a difference, it sounds like a connection issue. chase the wires from the battery and make sure everything is tight, especially onto the starter. and also look for cracks in the wire cover on the to the starter. maybe there is a bad section of wire badly corroded.
battery was test fine. even had AAA come take the battery back to the shop so they can "service it" check the water level and charge it on their set up.
came back everything fine.
i bought new battery shims and cleaned the terminals so i'm going to be checking again for connection in a few.
an odd thing i found was when i was volt testing the battery, it read the same amount of drain from testing poles, testing from the starter, and then the block.
i also have gone through all the gears trying to see if it was the park/natural switch. i'l keep on testing but thnx.
__________________
loves it when i make ppl regret not downshifting ;-)
TRUST YOUR DRIVER RESPECT YOUR MONKEY
Can you post up the measured electrical voltage of the battery while connected to the car: voltage before crank, when trying to crank, and after.
When working with electrical problems, its easier to see whats happening with values.
Was the battery voltage the same throughout before, when, and after cranking?
Was it fluctuating? For example: 12.3 volts before, 10.8 volts after trying to crank? Did the voltage increase back after trying to crank?
Measure without any accessories on.
Trying to find out if the electricity is flowing..
What is the condition of the positive and ground wires?
Any signs of really bad corrosion?
it could be in fact your shifter and to be more specific the Neutral Safety Switch not picking up correctly on the gear the shifter is in (it thinks it's out of Park and won't let it crank). check the NSS if all else checks out fine.
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Does the gear shift selector lights still work when the NSS isn't working correctly? If it does, did you notice if yer gear shift selector lights were working?
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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@2unknown- voltage at the battery terminals and at the connection points for power and ground rear evenly at 12.6volts.
condition of wires and all connection points are also in excellent condition.
@fenixus- i understand the concept but don't have a clue where it would be or how to check that.
@BamZipPow- the light on the gauge cluster or in the shift assembly?
__________________
loves it when i make ppl regret not downshifting ;-)
TRUST YOUR DRIVER RESPECT YOUR MONKEY
yep definitely is the Neutral Safety Switch. The Starter Signal goes through the NSS then to the starter, if it cant detect Neutral or Park, it wont start
lol thnx guys. as soon as i saw the dyi i was like oh, i just disconnected that wondering what it was. i opened it, and bam, dirty. cleaned car runs now... i could've done that a week ago i just didn't know where to start looking thnx boo's.
__________________
loves it when i make ppl regret not downshifting ;-)
TRUST YOUR DRIVER RESPECT YOUR MONKEY
but BTW it wasn't the NSS -____- car turned over for a day but i let it sit for about 10 hours and it wouldn't turn over.. so again checking from square 1.
battery is fine and every other supporting system up until the NSS. i've replaced it and am rebuilding mine just in case, but the car is having the same symptom. power goes to all the right places in all the right ranges but doesn't seem to be getting back to the ECU.
any other idea's?
__________________
loves it when i make ppl regret not downshifting ;-)
TRUST YOUR DRIVER RESPECT YOUR MONKEY
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