FYI: Gen 4 Toyota Camry 1MZ-FE V6 Spark Plugs & Wires

69GTSport · Apr 24, 2012

Thought I'd give my two cents on what I did to replace my '99 Camry XLE V6's spark plugs & spark plug wires (along with the PCV valve). It has the 1MZ-FE V6 engine with 3 coil packs on top of the front spark plugs and a secondary ignition wire connecting each coil pack to a rear spark plug.
I did NOT remove the upper manifold plenum. Would've been a total waste of time for me given how easy it was to do with it in place (to me anyways). I've worked on other FWD vehicles and accessing the rear plugs on certain other makes were more "difficult" (ie took more time, sometimes way more time) compared to this Gen 4 Camry.
All that chatter aside, let's get down to work!

TOOLS:
10mm socket or wrench
5mm Allen head socket, or an L, or a T handle allen wrench
Flat blade screwdriver assortment, both regular and very small ones
16mm or 5/8" spark plug socket with a rubber insert to hold the spark plug into the socket
3/8" drive socket driver wrench. NOTE: if you have a swivel handle socket driver wrench, this will make your life SO much easier. To make your life even easier yet is if it also has a socket/extension push button release on it.
3/8" drive assortment of 3" extensions, I used up to three 3" extensions.
In lb. and ft. lb torque wrenches (can get by with just an in lb. wrench since the needed torque setting isn't very high)

PARTS:
6 spark plugs: either Denso PK20TR11 or NGK BKR6EKPB11, I chose NGKs.
Set of spark plug wires: I chose NGK part # RC-TE65
Optional: PCV valve, I chose a Toyota OEM one because of bad experiences with aftermarket ones in the past in all kinds of makes and models of cars. Usually resulting in oil blowbying into the air box, onto the ground, or out the exhaust (ie oil burning). Toyota OEM part # 12204-20010, $8.25 retail.

STEPS to Changing the Spark Plugs & Wires:

1) Remove the fuel rail cover by loosening the two 5mm allen head screws and then grasp the rearward sides of the cover and pull upward to release the hold down clips.
View of the 5mm Socket Bit on the allen screw:

View of the cover lifted up; note where it was attached:

View of where the cover was attached:

2) Remove the spark plug wires by:
--a) first carefully studying the routing of the wires and how the loom is connected
View of the Wire Loom:

Another View:

--b) then unclip the coil wires by using a screwdriver and pulling out on the tab and then lifting up on the connector off each coil.
View of where the screwdriver is placed:

--c) then remove the 10mm screw located next to the left side ignition coil that holds the plastic wire loom, you'll need to push the wiring to the coil out of the way to reach it.
View of the wire pushed aside to show the screw:

--d) then remove the clip holding the loom at the top side by pulling out on the clip and pulling up
View of the Loom clip separated:

--e) then remove the vacuum line off the loom.
View of vacuum line separated off the loom:

--f) then remove the rearward hold-down clip by using a pair of needlenose pliers and pinching the tabs together and lifting up on the wire loom
View of the rearward loom clip with pliers in use pinching locking tabs together:

View of the rearward loom clip separated from its stay:

--g) then locate the PCV valve and depress the hose clamp and slide it back and then remove the hose off the PCV valve. On my car, the hose had been disturbed and wasn't properly installed onto the valve, so it simply came off super easy.
View of PCV hose separated off the PCV valve:

--h) then grasp the PCV hose firmly and see if it'll pull off of the intake manifold plenum as mine did. Otherwise you'll have to try and reach under there and grasp the clamp and try to slide it back so you can pull off the hose off the manifold plenum. You could then remove the PCV valve and tape over the hole, but IMO it wasn't really in the way so I left it there.
View of me grasping the PCV hose and removing it:

--i) then twist and pull up on each of the spark plug wire connectors off each of the rear cylinder spark plugs. I reached the two left side connectors from the passenger side and the right side connector from the driver side.
View of the spark plug wire connector to cylinder #1 from the passenger side:

View of the #3 & #5 Connectors from the passenger side:

View of me about to remove the #1 connector (BTW which very easy to get to):

View of me reaching in and breaking connector #3 loose from the passenger side:

Another view of me breaking #3 loose from the passenger side:

View of me reaching in from the driver's side to remove connector #5:

Another view looking thru the manifold plenum removing #5:

Removing #5:

#5 Removed:

--j) then remove the wires by carefully "snaking" them out through the passenger side. I also used compressed air to blow air into the tube wells to help clean them of debris that could drop into the engine when removing the spark plugs.

3) Remove the old and install new rear spark plugs:
--a) the two left most plugs were the easiest to remove and install. I used a 5/8" spark plug socket (which has a rubber insert that holds the spark plug firmly in place inside the socket) and attached 3" extensions to it and my socket driver.
--b) reaching in from the passenger side set the socket and one 3" extension down onto the #1 spark plug.
--c) then attach a second 3" extension to the first and make sure it's connected securely to the first extension and then make sure that the socket has dropped and locked down all the way onto the spark plug.
View of the second 3" extension installed:

I then attached my 3/8" drive socket driver (which has a swivel handle) and removed the #1 cylinder's spark plug.
--d) then remove the #3 spark plug in the same manner.
View of the socket swivel head driver removing #3 plug:

Both #1 & #3 spark plugs came out super easy, not tight at all. Just know that you'll have to separate one by one the socket driver off the top extension and then remove the top 3" extension in order to have enough clearance to remove the spark plug, socket, and first 3" extension. Installation simply was the reverse of removal. I like a dab of antiseize but some folks swear by not using it, so make your own judgement call.
View of the old Denso vs. new NGK plugs:

View of me getting ready to install the cylinder #1 spark plug with antiseize on the threads:

Just make sure to hand thread the spark plugs into the cylinder head first before using your socket driver, they should thread in super easy, any immediate resistance might mean you're "cross-threading" it. If you have a torque wrench and and an assortment of extension sizes and can get it all back behind there, tighten to 13 ft lbs (or 156 in lbs). I was barely able to get my 1/4" torque wrench back there to #3 plug, #1 was cake.
--e) the right side rear spark plug also wasn't too bad. I attached two 3" extensions to my socket and reaching in from the driver's side I set it onto the spark plug making sure the socket was all the way on.
View from above of socket and two 3" extensions installed onto #5 spark plug:

Then I attached a third 3" extension and then my swivel handle 3/8" socket driver and I removed the spark plug.
View of the socket wrench reaching #5:

Another view of socket wrench reaching #5:

Just like the other 2 plugs, you'll have to separate the socket driver & the top extension from the rest of the extentions in order to get enough clearance to get the socket and spark plug out.
4) And now for the easy ones, remove the old and install the new FRONT cylinder head spark plugs:
--a) Depress the release tab on the wire connector and pull firmly off each of the coils.
View of connector separated from the coil:

--b) then using a 10mm socket remove the screw holding the coil assembly to the engine.
--c) then twist the coil to help it break free of the spark plug and then pull firmly and straight up.
View of coil pack separated from the spark plug:

--d) I used two 3" extensions along with my 5/8" socket and driver to remove the front spark plugs. Same torque setting at 13 ft lbs (or 156 in lbs) when tightening the new plugs.
--e) Install the coils onto the spark plugs and align them with their screw holes and push down firmly. Tighten the 10mm head screws to only 69 in lbs. Reconnect the coil wire connectors.

5) Install new spark plug wires:
--a) I laid out the old spark plug wires/loom assembly as well as the new wires to get an idea of how things will go together. Thankfully NGK had taped a number on each wire let you know where it should go

.
View of the old wire loom next to the new NGK wires:

--b) I used one or two small screwdrivers in order to separate the plastic hold-down clips on the loom assembly. Just take your time and one by one each wire separator/holddown tab will need to be unclipped so you can take each one of them off to allow you to remove and install the wires into the loom. Everything came apart fine with my loom assembly. I will admit it did take quite a bit of fiddling before I finally got the idea of what I needed to do to get them to separate

.
A view of the two screwdrivers I used to separate the wire loom pieces:

View of one of the separators detached:

--c) Once I got all the separator/holders off, I removed one wire at a time when exchanging it with a new wire in the loom. I used the "witness marks" on the old wires to get an idea exactly where each of the new wires were to be located in the loom. If you took pictures beforehand, you'll be glad you did if you did a slight screw-up as I did, I had one of the wires on the wrong side of one of the wire holders, but it really wasn't a huge deal as I believe it would've worked fine.
View on the new wires installed into the loom:

Another view:

Completed wire loom assembly:

--d) Once you have everything together with the loom assembly, place it on the engine and then lay everything out and then start by getting the wires in their proper locations before connecting stuff.
--e) I started by dropping the rear wires into the tube wells and then fiddled a bit with the wires back there until they seemed to be in their "proper" positions so that the wires weren't touching anything they shouldn't be or in a bind. I then clipped the plastic loom assembly into place starting with the rearward clip and then the clip on top. Then I fiddled some more with the wires and then finally after I was happy I snapped each of the rear connectors into place onto the spark plugs. I was able to get to the two left wires from the passenger side, the right one from the driver's side.
View of the wire loom installed:

Another view showing the connectors installed onto the spark plugs:

--f) Then connect the PCV hose onto the manifold plenum and then onto the PCV valve. Don't forget to slide the hose clamps back to their original locations. I installed a new PCV valve as the old one was suspect as it didn't make much noise when shaken compared to the new one. I had assumed perhaps that carbon had built up inside of it and perhaps it may be restricted as well.
View of the PCV hose installed onto the PCV valve:

Another view:

--g) then install the wire loom support 10mm screw you removed earlier from Step 2 c) and tighten snugly.
--h) Then I connected the spark plug wires to the coils. Make sure you have the connectors in their proper positions before trying to force them onto the coils. I had two of the rubber parts of the connector out of alignment with the hard plastic parts.
View of the the wiring all connected:

6) Now that all is left is the fuel rail cover. Just simply align it so that the screws start to take into the threads and then push firmly on the back side until the clips attach. Then tighten the front 5mm allen head screws, but don't overtighten them, just snug 'em down.
View of me pushing down on the left side to get the clips to snap on:

View of me pushing down on the right side:

View of me tightening the screws with the socket driver:

Do another once over and make sure everything looks ship shape.
View of the completed job:

Start up the car and see how you did.

That's all I got! Now partake of your favorite frosty beverage (or hot beverage if you just came in from the outside in sub freezing weather.) BTW I have more pics at my PostImage site if you want to spend some time looking thru them all (over 80 of them!)
https://postimg.cc/gallery/2a3bxeeka/

ajkalian · Apr 25, 2012

Very nice job, very complete DIY. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Once and for all, you have put to rest the notion that you have to remove the plenum to change the spark plugs on a 6-cyl Camry, at least a 1MZ-FE engine anyway.

I found it helpful to remove the Plenum bracket near the driver side spark plug. There is one bolt on the top, and you can get to the bottom one by feel. You don't have to remove the bottom bolt, just loosen it, and the bracket will swing out of the way. If you have fat hands it makes it much easier to get in there.

If you can get your g/f to reach back in there, then loosening the bracket probably isn't necessary.

Vote for Sticky !!

.

BMR · Apr 25, 2012

ajkalian said:
Vote for Sticky !!.

Funny you should say that, I just finished adding it to the stickied DIY thread!

fenixus · Apr 25, 2012

yeah, a while back I did spark plugs and wires on my 1mz-fe the same way. I'm not touching the plenum , to hell with it...

good pictorial guide! :thumbsup:

my 1mz-fe since February

BTW, OP, your PCV valve and/or grommet are leaking oil, replace it, you may have a vacuum leak from there (even the loose hose can cause it too).

69GTSport · Sep 17, 2012

fenixus said:
...BTW, OP, your PCV valve and/or grommet are leaking oil, replace it, you may have a vacuum leak from there (even the loose hose can cause it too).

I had mentioned that in my pictorial. If you look carefully at the position of the PCV valve's hose you can see that it was simply resting against the edge of the PCV, not pressed onto it fully. In the second picture below you can also see the evidence of this by all the blowby crud that had vented out and deposited onto the area around the PCV valve itself, the grommet, and the valve cover as well.

O_loung1 · Apr 25, 2012

awesome diy guide and great pics.

MarkPdxOR · Sep 15, 2012

Just used your guide to change out plugs on my 2000 Camry V6 and can't thank you enough for the expertise. Used the 3" extension, univ. joint and 12" ext. on the #1 and #3. Went with 3" ext, univ. joint and 6" ext. on the #5. With patience, they all swapped out perfectly. I should mention I also had misfires before the changeout in #1 and #2, so replaced the #1 coil pack. Codes are gone and car runs great. Thanks again for such detailed illustrations.

serratedauto · Sep 16, 2012

On the PCV valve tubing that you said to yank out, is that clamped onto the intake manifold by one of the tubing clamps (like on the radiator hoses? So if I try to yank it out, it's not going to break or damage the tubing or any connectors?

And how difficult is that tube to put back in?

Thanks.

69GTSport · Sep 16, 2012

Good question. On my Camry it pulled off without too much resistance off the intake manifold. Yours may not pull off so easily. Just take your time at it and turn and twist the hose while pulling. Let us know if your experience differed from mine.

BMR · Sep 17, 2012

The rubber grommet gets hard and brittle with heat and age, so getting the old PCV out can be difficult. Just pull and twist on it, and it'll come out. Good idea to replace the grommet too. And be careful pulling the old grommet out, they have a tendency to crumble and fall inside.

69GTSport · Sep 17, 2012

Yep, good tip. Thankfully with this '99 only having around 82K miles on it at the time, I had noticed no issues with the PCV grommet nor with its hose.

michael_long · Sep 17, 2012

Good job! I am very surprised that removing the rear bank spark plugs of 1MZFE without taking off manifold plenum and throttle body. To access the 3vzfe rear bank spark plugs seem to be more difficult than that in 1MZFE.

serratedauto · Sep 17, 2012

Help!!!!

I've gotten the wires off no problem, but I'm trying to get the spark plugs off and they are SERIOUSLY over-torqued. The #1 spark plug required a 5 ft pipe attached to the end of a 10" ratchet to get it off.

I'm not sure what to do for the remaining 2 in the rear since there's no way to stick that 5 ft pipe in there, but it is seriously pissing me off...

serratedauto · Sep 17, 2012

bump.

anybody? i'm seriously up shit creek because i cant get any of the spark plugs to move after applying 150 lbs (body weight) against a 10" ratchet (1500 in-lb).

71Corolla · Sep 17, 2012

Some thing is very wrong if you have to apply that kind of force to the plugs. An impact would come in really handy, but you'd need to be very careful and remove the plugs slowly, turning the plugs clockwise/counter clockwise in many steps.

Bdub215 · Sep 17, 2012

i use a similar procedure on my 3vz. plugs are out in 15 minutes.

serratedauto · Sep 18, 2012

So I was able to get all of them off except for the #5 spark plug. I noticed that the spark plugs might have been changed already at ~70K (I bought the car used at 75K). I noticed a lot of missing clips along the wire loom and the spark plugs themselves looked like they had far less than 120K miles of use. Also, the plastic box that contains the coilpack wires underneath the fuel rail panel was cracked, like someone had already pulled off the connectors and removed the coilpacks.

I think whoever did this before over-torqued them and didn't use anti-seize. It took quite a bit of effort to break them free, but once the spark plug was free it took no effort at all to remove it.

It looks like it was way more beneficial to replace the spark plug wires rather than the spark plugs themselves. The new wires measured ~6Kohms and the old wires were ~18 to 20 Kohms.

Anyway, I still need to figure out how to get that #5 spark plug out. Would PB blaster or liquid wrench work or would that be a bad thing for the spark plug tube?

djracertt03 · Nov 26, 2012

serratedauto said:
Anyway, I still need to figure out how to get that #5 spark plug out. Would PB blaster or liquid wrench work or would that be a bad thing for the spark plug tube?

Not to hijack an old thread but a trick I was taught is to spray a small amount of pb blaster down into the spark plug tube (cold engine). Then replace the plug wire and start the engine, letting it warm up a bit. The heat should pull the pb blaster into the spark plug threads.

If you're able to break the plug loose but it's still tight, loosen it 1-2 threads and spray a little more pb blaster and let it sit. Re-tighten the plug and loosen a little further and spray a little more pb blaster and let sit for a few minutes. Repeat until the plug comes out easily.

Doing this ensures that you won't pull the threads or break the spark plug off.

pmesfun · Sep 18, 2012

get a breaker bar if it will fit.

serratedauto · Sep 18, 2012

I tried using a cheater bar by fitting it over the end of the ratchet. There's just not enough room to turn it before hitting either the brake fluid reservoir (or any other part on the drivers side of the engine bay) or the top of the intake manifold. The only way to really do that is to remove the intake manifold, which I'm kinda dreading,...

michael_long · Oct 31, 2012

See below link,good reference for 3vzfe spark plugs replacement.
Include detailed description and clear pics

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-es330/624903-spark-plugs-3vz-fe-manifold-removal.html

svong1175 · Nov 25, 2013

Thanks for nice write up. I have a 2000 Solara V6 85K miles now, occasionally I got a check engine light P0306 ( cylinder #6 misfire ). Just order the spark plug wire set, spark plugs and a PCV valve, hopefully after this tuneup will fix the misfire problem. Should I concern about the coil on top of cylinder 2,4,and 6.? The car is running fine only P0306 code, any help / comment would be greatly appreciated. :thanks:

69GTSport · Nov 25, 2013

You could simply swap coils and see if the misfire code changes to another cylinder. If so probably the coil. If it doesn't change then hopefully the spark plug is the problem. Let us know how it goes.

svong1175 · Nov 28, 2013

I swapped coils #2 and #6 drove the car 100 miles check engine light flashing then off. Confirmed with my ODB show P0302, so the coil is bad. I am going to change my spark plugs and PCV valve now and will replace all 3 coils when I get the package from Amazon, ordered 3 Evan-Fischer EVA13872048862 Ignition Coil Set for ~ $50. :thumbsup:

Update: Still waiting for Amazon to send me the coil packs. Did the ODB II checked today, it show no code and green light. So after replace spark plugs and wire set, problem solved, no need to replace the coil pack. :rockon:

balashark · Jan 8, 2015

Is the wire harness necessary? I noticed that I don't have one...bad mechanic who replaced my wires and plugs probably forgot to put it back on...

svong1175 · Jan 8, 2015

Yes, there are spark plug wires that connected to the coil in order for it to start.

balashark · Jan 8, 2015

No I meant is the loom (wire cover/holder) that goes on the right side of the engine and routes the wires necessary ? Of course I need the wires and such...

BMR · Jan 8, 2015

The plastic covers perhaps shield the plug wires from some heat, and keep them from getting pinched during installation. Absolutely necessary?... No. But when I see a mechanic has left stuff like this off, I thinker "slacker" and wonder what other shortcuts they may have taken.

Bielo83 · Aug 11, 2016

Sputtering at low throttle speeds

So I changed the coil pack plugs and wires on my 1999 Camry with the 3.0l because the car was hesitating a bit while maintaining speeds of around 30 mph. It threw a code that was saying the coil pack or the 3 cylinder was not firing correctly. My father in law, who told what was wrong, told me to replace said items. Well now after doing all of that it sputters even worse upon initial take off and low throttle input. If you get on it there is no problem and it idles smooth. What could I have screwed up. This was my first time doing this. I put everything back the same way, gapped the plugs to the right specs And secured all connection... Very frustrating... Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gabe

balashark · Aug 11, 2016

Check the pcv valve and hose. Its ready to knock loose when changing the plugs. Which types of spark plugs did you get?

Bielo83 · Aug 11, 2016

I have checked multiple times that the hose is secure. The valve... I don't know where that is. Im an extreme novice. I used ngk v power part number 7990.
Gapped to .044

Gabe

Kingdom934 · Aug 11, 2016

So lets try break it down a little.

How much miles is on the car? Any other CEL codes found besides the Cylinder 3?

Car was hesitating. Replaced spark plug wires and plugs. Used NGK (7990) BKR6EYA. Issue is now worst.
When I ran a check, the NGK are copper plugs. I've known that the 1MZ from factory uses Double Platinum.

What codes are still popping up? If your getting a p0303 (cylinder 3 misfire), might want to look at the condition of that spark plug. Was the other 5 spark plug replaced too or was it just the front (1, 3, 5) done?

Refer to a quote below from this thread.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...01/837553-official-3rd-4th-gen-maintenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html

Spark Plugs:

Spark plugs on these engines are recommended every 60-90K if using OEM equivalent plugs. The Gen 4 uses a "Waste-Spark" system and came standard with Double Platinum/Twin-Tip Spark Plugs. The Gen 3 uses either an individual COP or Distributor and as such has the option to use the Iridium Long Life plugs. The Iridium Long Life are better in every way compared to their Platinum counterparts. I prefer Denso plugs as they are what comes factory on most Toyotas (NGK to a lesser degree). I have installed NGK on several cars and had no issues. Plug gap for a 5SFE and 1MZFE is .44 while the plug gap for the 3VZFE is .32. The general consensus is you don't gap Iridium or Double Platinum Plugs as they come pregapped. My preference would be the Denso Iridium Twin-Tip for Gen 3 and 4 or NGK Laser Platinum for Gen 4 only.

NGK:

Copper:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: BKR6E11. SN: 2756
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: BCPR6E11. SN: 5632
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: BKR6E11. SN: 2756
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: BKR6EYA. SN: 7990
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EYA. SN: 7990

Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: BKR6EGP. SN: 7092
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: BCPR6EGP. SN: 7088
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EGP. SN: 7092
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: BKR6EGP. SN: 7092
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EGP. SN: 7092

Laser Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: BKR6EP11. SN: 2978
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: BCPR6EP11. SN: 3350
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EP11. SN: 2978
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: BKR6EKPB11. SN: 3452
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EKPB11. SN: 3452

NGK Iridium IX:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: BKR6EIX11. SN: 3764
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: BCPR6EIX11. SN: 4919
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EIX11. SN: 3764
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: BKR6EIX11. SN: 3764
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: BKR6EIX11. SN: 3764

NGK Laser Iridium:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: IFR6T11. SN: 4589
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: IFR6T11. SN: 4589

Denso:

Copper:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: K20R-U11. SN: 3139
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: K16R-U. SN: 3119
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: K20R-U11. SN: 3139
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: K20TR11. SN: 3195
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: K20TR11. SN: 3195

Platinum Twin Tip:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: PK20TT. SN: 4504
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: PK16TT. SN: 4503
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: PK20TT. SN: 4504
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: PK20TT. SN: 4504
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: PK20TT. SN: 4504

Double Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: PK20R11. SN: 3128
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: PK16R8. SN: 3301
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: PK20R11. SN: 3128
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: PK20TR11. SN: 3253
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: PK20TR11. SN: 3253

Denso Iridium Power:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: IK20. SN: 5304
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: IK16. SN: 5303
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: IK20. SN: 5304
Gen 4 5SFE: PN: IK20. SN: 5304
Gen 4 1MZFE: PN: IK20. SN: 5304

Denso Iridium Twin-Tip:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 4702
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 4702
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 4702
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 4702

Denso Iridium Long Life:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: SK20R11. SN: 3297
Gen 3 3VZFE: PN: SK16PR-F8. SN: 3435
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: SK20R11. SN: 3297

Bosch: I have only read one person having a positive review for these. Use at your own risk.

Copper:
Gen 3 5SFE: PN: FR7DCX. SN: 7956
Gen 3 1MZFE: PN: FR7DCX. SN: 7956
Gen 4 5SFE: FR8DCX. SN: 7957
Gen 4 1MZFE: FR8DCX. SN: 7957

Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 6705 or 6724
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 6705 or 6724
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 41801
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 41801

Double Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 8101
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 8101
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 8101
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 8101

Bosch Iridium:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 9603
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 9603
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 9603
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 9603

Autolite: No reviews on these. I wouldn't use them but they are here for your review.

Copper:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 3923
Gen 3 3VZFE: SN: 5503
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 3923
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 3923
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 3923

Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: AP3923
Gen 3 3VZFE: SN: AP5503
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: AP3923:
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: AP3923
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: AP3923

Double Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: APP3923
Gen 3 3VZFE: SN: APP5503
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: APP3923
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: APP3923
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: APP3923

Autolite Xtreme Performance Iridium:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: XP3923
Gen 3 3VZFE: SN: XP5503
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: XP3923
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: XP3923
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: XP3923

Champion: Same as Autolite:

Copper:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 71C2
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 71C2
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 318
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 318

Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 3071
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 3071
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 33182
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 33182

Double Platinum:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 7071
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 7071
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 7318
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 7318

Champion Iridium:
Gen 3 5SFE: SN: 9201
Gen 3 1MZFE: SN: 9201
Gen 4 5SFE: SN: 9202
Gen 4 1MZFE: SN: 9202

FYI: Gen 4 Toyota Camry 1MZ-FE V6 Spark Plugs & Wires

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