3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Well, what's next was a too tight timing belt that destroyed itself! I'm done with this, I'm taking it to a nice older man down the road who fixes anything and just put another gen3 all back together!
Well, what's next was a too tight timing belt that destroyed itself! I'm done with this, I'm taking it to a nice older man down the road who fixes anything and just put another gen3 all back together!
Update, what I heard coming apart while driving was not the belt! It must have been a rod bearing, engine started next day (just few seconds) and slapped like hell? My friend, 35 year mech. says, probably the increased compression most likely took its toll on an already weakened bottom end and spun/destroyed a starved rod bearing!
It is in his hands now and he has not gotten to it to look for sure.
Update, what I heard coming apart while driving was not the belt! It must have been a rod bearing, engine started next day (just few seconds) and slapped like hell? My friend, 35 year mech. says, probably the increased compression most likely took its toll on an already weakened bottom end and spun/destroyed a starved rod bearing!
It is in his hands now and he has not gotten to it to look for sure.
Sounds like it is time for a used engine, swap the new timing belt, water pump, and any other newer parts to the used engine.
If you did the oil pump O-ring and gasket maybe a bit of debris got inside and partially blocked an oil passage on that bearing.
No guys,,,,,He has a 96 sitting in his yard, we will thoroughly check out everything!!! Then send the best of the two blocks for machining and rebuild the best rotating assy!
Look at the possibility of leaving off the Balance Shaft assembly.
4cyl engines have a natural vibration, the balancer was added for customer "sensitivity", it adds nothing to engine efficiency, and removal mean less moving parts so less to go wrong.
I don't think there would be any mileage benefit, although on paper one less component the engine has to turn should mean better mileage and performance.
Just a thought.
Look at the possibility of leaving off the Balance Shaft assembly.
4cyl engines have a natural vibration, the balancer was added for customer "sensitivity", it adds nothing to engine efficiency, and removal mean less moving parts so less to go wrong.
I don't think there would be any mileage benefit, although on paper one less component the engine has to turn should mean better mileage and performance.
Just a thought.
It was #2 rod bearing destroying itself. We will rebuild rotating assembly. out of the 96 and pick best block for honing, probably mine 1/2 the mileage of the 96.
I do want to leave off balance assem. but, mech says I can't? Someone with a short block supplier told me if the bearings in them wear out, they are not available to replace?
It was #2 rod bearing destroying itself. We will rebuild rotating assembly. out of the 96 and pick best block for honing, probably mine 1/2 the mileage of the 96.
I do want to leave off balance assem. but, mech says I can't? Someone with a short block supplier told me if the bearings in them wear out, they are not available to replace?
There are a few threads here about not re-installing the balancer assembly on these 4cyl engines.
From what I have read you just need to plug the oil supply hole for the assembly in the block, some thread the hole with a tap and put in a bolt, some install a plate held in place by a near by bolt.
I would read up on whats been done in the past and what the results were.
4cyl engines have a natural vibration, this is caused by the pistons moving in pairs and that there is no overlapping power strokes, which is why the balancer was added, the vibration has been on every in-line 4cyl since they have been made, so since the early 1900's, lol, balancers for inline 4s were actually invented in 1911, but not put into general use until the 1970's.
The vibration doesn't "hurt" the engine, the balancer was added for operator comfort, it serves no other purpose.
So having it or removing it will not effect the longevity of the engine itself.
The only benefit of removing it is the "less to go wrong" theory of car mechanics, which is a valid point, but no noticeable mileage or performance increase has been reported, after removal.
OK, all back together and running strong. Idle is surprisingly smooth w/o balancer and oil pressure is up immediately at start up, really light goes out while starter is spinning it over, pressure is there before fire up!
Break in time now, not running over 3k rpms for 500 miles and will change oil at 800 when it flips over to 150k even!
OK, all back together and running strong. Idle is surprisingly smooth w/o balancer and oil pressure is up immediately at start up, really light goes out while starter is spinning it over, pressure is there before fire up!
Break in time now, not running over 3k rpms for 500 miles and will change oil at 800 when it flips over to 150k even!
OK Guys, Your thoughts Please?
Rolled over the 150k mark and 800 since rebuild and changed the oil, wow that stuff was black, I'm sure because rings are not completely seated in.
After that I cleaned up the engine with some purple power and just good hose off. Then I ran it and ran it hard for a few miles with OD off and letting it hit the 5000 rpm range. All was fine, really strong power band above 4000 rpms but, came back home and let it sit for a while to drain down and recheck the oil level, all good! When I restated it began to get a little bit of rough idle, the next day I went 2.5 miles to the store and it would not start when I came out to go home, sputtered and spit like maybe some water got in distributor or some where? It runs fine cold, in choke mode but, dies after warm up? Now, we have had rain everyday since so I have not been able to check for water in anything. This is the first dry day we have had so I'm checking for the water first; dist. cap, plug wires, plug tubes, etc,,,,, It is intermittent so I don't think mechanical?
When ECU is in "choke mode", engine cold, it runs injectors in a preset range and advances timing, it also ignores most sensors, like the O2, this is called "open loop", it also runs "open loop" when TPS(throttle) is wide open, foot to the floor.
Once engine reaches operating temp ECU uses sensors to set air/fuel mix and timing, this is called "closed loop".
Operating temp is sent to the ECU by the Engine Coolant Temp(ECT) sensor, it is a two wire sensor usually located near the upper rad hose.
There will be a one wire sensor next to it that is the Temp Gauge sender, for the dash board temp gauge.
If the ECT sensor is acting up it will give ECU a "warm" reading when engine is still cold or a "cold" reading when engine is warm, the ECT sensor can easily be tested with an OHM meter.
The IAC can also cause problems when engine warms up, these can be cleaned.
A vacuum leak might not cause engine to run rough when cold but would when warmed up.
With engine warmed up and running rough remove each vacuum line one at a time and put your finger over the vacuums intake opening, if engine smoothes out then the line connected to that opening has a leak.
When ECU is in "choke mode", engine cold, it runs injectors in a preset range and advances timing, it also ignores most sensors, like the O2, this is called "open loop", it also runs "open loop" when TPS(throttle) is wide open, foot to the floor.
Once engine reaches operating temp ECU uses sensors to set air/fuel mix and timing, this is called "closed loop".
Operating temp is sent to the ECU by the Engine Coolant Temp(ECT) sensor, it is a two wire sensor usually located near the upper rad hose.
There will be a one wire sensor next to it that is the Temp Gauge sender, for the dash board temp gauge.
If the ECT sensor is acting up it will give ECU a "warm" reading when engine is still cold or a "cold" reading when engine is warm, the ECT sensor can easily be tested with an OHM meter.
The IAC can also cause problems when engine warms up, these can be cleaned.
A vacuum leak might not cause engine to run rough when cold but would when warmed up.
With engine warmed up and running rough remove each vacuum line one at a time and put your finger over the vacuums intake opening, if engine smoothes out then the line connected to that opening has a leak.
Thanks Ron, but I believe it was just moisture in the distributor, cap seal was a little out of place and after a blast with brake clean and air, all seems to be fine! BUT!!!! I also have a critter of the "Rodent" variety that has been dining on acorns atop the valve cover at number one cylinder! Sooo, I have set his little ass up with some goodies in tiger claw snap, and some glue traps! HIS ASS IS MINE!
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