Need Help Here, STOPPED UP BLOCK! 92 2.2l

[fjs340]

During replacement of timing belt, water pump, oil pump rebuild,etc,,,I found this disgusting dry hard sludge build up around the cams. Looks like someone stop changing the oil and just cooked on this crap!
So now I have the head at a machine shop and will drop the oil pan and give this engine a good flush and clean out. The oil passage will be easy, kerosene and bore brushes.

What about the water jacket, I guess they never changed coolant either, I'm going to test some of the rust build up in a jar with white vinegar (weak acetic acid) but, it had a fairly new radiator that is also lightly coated with rust. I had flushed, rinsed and refilled the system before this tear down. Obviously, Prestone Super Flush does nothing! Anybody ever tried that CLR stuff or dilute Muriatic Acid?

Ideas please?

Also, notice some scuffing or piston slap in lower cylinder walls, wrist pins getting sloppy? I'm thinking of just getting some new rings and honing them with a drill mounted tool?

More Ideas?

[leakyseals]

A synthetic oil will do away with most of the liquid sludge, but for the baked on stuff there's only one answer. Kreen. Use it as an additive in combination with the synthetic.

Visit the Kano labs website to purchase. You will be asked which free gift you want, suggest you take the Aerokroil. Amazing stuff. I've written on here the best ways to use it, you can PM me if you want.
http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html

Also stick with the Toyota Red coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled. No substitutes. Substituting risks aluminum corrosion buildup clogging the system.

[RonR]

I have a 1997 Camry 2.2l and just redid the head, same crystallized oil build up almost burying the exhaust cam.
We have had the car since new and oil was changed per time/mileage.
I think it is just a design issue with the aluminum head.
The pan and lower engine didn't show this build up.

Since the head is off I would pop out the larger expansion(freeze) plugs and clean out the water jackets that way, they are usually cheap to replace, $2-$4 each.
Bottle brushes work well for this, not sure you need the vinegar or other mild acids, if you do use these make sure you flush the surfaces with clean water afterwards.

The back side of the engine could be an issue when it comes time to replace the expansion plugs, if you are not worried about hard freezing in your location then the rubber "bolt-in" expansion plugs can be used, no pounding required


Yes, if you know the coolant you drained out was "red" OAT coolant then you need to replace it with that, "toyota pink" is the premixed version of "red".
If you are not sure what coolant was last used there are hybrid OAT(HOAT) coolants now available, these are made to toyota specs but have the added chemicals to stop silicates from old "green" coolant from clogging things up.

Since you are cleaning out the head, block and rad water jackets you will probably be fine with "red" or pink remixed.

Silicates were what was used in the older stye "green" coolant to protect metal surfaces in the cooling system, silicates start to breakdown after 2 years so you should change these coolants every 2 years.
The "red" coolant uses OAT(organic acid technology) to protect metal surfaces, these last longer, 5 years is the recommended time to change OAT coolant.
Problem is the silicates stay on the metal surfaces after draining the coolant, if you replace coolant with more a silicate coolant then everything will be fine, if you replace with OAT coolant then the silicates will start to be replaced by the OAT and can clog rads and heater cores.
HOAT coolant stabilizes the silicates on metal surfaces until they breakdown.

[leakyseals]

RonR - Your in the years from the Toyota sludge lawsuit. Supposedly modifying the PCV system resolves the sludge issues, have you done that?

[RonR]

Originally Posted by leakyseals

RonR - Your in the years from the Toyota sludge lawsuit. Supposedly modifying the PCV system resolves the sludge issues, have you done that?

Cool, thanks for the heads up on that.

[carsrus]

The muratic is probably gonna be the best solution, however I wouldn't run it through the rad.

[deadrx7conv]

You'd be fine with any coolant that isn't used beyond its capability. Same can be said about oil.
I wouldn't waste my money on Toyota coolant. Zerex Asian, Peak Global, or something like Prestone or STP all makes all models all colors, are excellent. Just don't make the mistake of expecting them to last 150k or 5 years. 2-3yrs...30k-50k and its time to change. Pick one and stick with it.
RMI-25 is my preferred method of cleaning a cooling system. Just add it and drive for 15k. Drain/refill the block and radiator at the 15k point. No garden hose flush hassle or acidic/caustic flush chemicals needed.

The newest GF5/SN can prevent the issue if you keep a reasonable maintenance interval, like the much maligned 3k/3mo pushed by the profit mongers at jippylube. They were right. The eco-enviro crowd ruined your engine to save a few gallons of oil! The GF5/SN can also slowly clean it too without using any oil additives or solvents. And, you don't need to go synthetic if you don't want to. I always recommend it but the cost for the 3k/3mo could be excessive, especially on an older vehicle like the '92.
On the 97-01 engines, they cooked the oil. Excessive head temps and the budget move oil cooler removal were the main causes. The engine passed the tightening emissions requirements but boiled oil into charcoal. If 97-01, I would definitely stick with blend of full synthetic. Prior to 96, any name brand new spec mineral oil is good enough. As always, oil level is critical so check frequently and top off as needed. It should be 100% always. And, crank vent function should be inspected regularly.

[fjs340]

Thanks for all the info. when I pulled the pan what is that damn thing in the bottom that looks a transmission valve body? I was expecting to just see crank and rod ends!

Damn, there is just too much extra crap on this engine, making it very hard to the simplest jobs!

[fjs340]

oh yea can I use copper gasket spray on all new gaskets even oil pan? Someonehad really goooped a lot of rtv sealer on it?

[fjs340]

Originally Posted by leakyseals

RonR - Your in the years from the Toyota sludge lawsuit. Supposedly modifying the PCV system resolves the sludge issues, have you done that?

Not aware of it, what chages are needed? I just bought this car with 148K miles on it.

[leakyseals]

Sorry for responding to RonR your thread, your 92 is not part of that issue. However any engine with a clogged PCV system can cause gelling/sludging. My 02 Camry has that liquid gasket material too, what Toyota uses I guess. All you need is something to keep the new gasket in place during installation like this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=554063

Make sure surface scraped of and cleaned real good. I don't recommend RTV use with a rubber gasket, just my way of doing it. I recommended the Kreen because manually cleaning these engines are a PIA. Button it up, use Kreen with a synthetic, after a few oil changes the hard stuff is gone.

[CrystalMethod]

Originally Posted by fjs340

Thanks for all the info. when I pulled the pan what is that damn thing in the bottom that looks a transmission valve body? I was expecting to just see crank and rod ends!

Damn, there is just too much extra crap on this engine, making it very hard to the simplest jobs!

You sure you pulled the oil pan, and not the transmission pan? Only thing you should see other than crank and rods is the oil pickup strainer, and dipstick end.

[gregk]

Originally Posted by fjs340

Thanks for all the info. when I pulled the pan what is that damn thing in the bottom that looks a transmission valve body? I was expecting to just see crank and rod ends!

Damn, there is just too much extra crap on this engine, making it very hard to the simplest jobs!

Balance shaft assy?

[fjs340]

New head gasket should go on clean and dry, right?
I plan to use copper spray on all the rest, intake, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, water neck, TB, etc,,,,,,,,

[fjs340]

I am sure which pan I pulled, you've never had yours off I can tell.