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DIY: Installing Hood Struts on Gen4 Toyota Camry [Gen4 > 4.5 Conversion]

31K views 48 replies 14 participants last post by  harbnger  
#1 · (Edited)
Given how much time I spent under the hood of the car, I figured it's about time I install hood struts on my Gen4 Camry. Here's how to do it so that your car looks like this:
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P.S. Don't look at the headlights just yet - I'm in the midst of doing that write-up, too. :)

As you may know, Gen4 (97-99) Camry's did not get hood struts until the mid-cycle (Geh 4.5, 00-01) refresh. However, it does have the mounting threaded nut welded in, which is partially blocked by the "Cowl Louver", aka Cowl Grill. The threaded hole in the hood is also already there, waiting for a strut. That's good news.

In order to fit in hood struts, Cowl Grill has to change. You can either:
- Modify the existing one (will probably look wrong, may leak; refer to my earlier info-seeking thread on this here), or
- Get Gen4.5 grill, which fits right in, no problems.

Here's a comparison of 2000 grilles installed vs. the removed 99 ones:
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I managed to score a set of 2000 Camry cowl grills at a junkyard. Win. Installing them is pretty straight-forward:
1. Carefully remove (for reuse) two clips on the sides.
2. Unclip the rubber piece.
3. Passenger side one comes out easily, just unclip the clip in the middle holding the two, and slide it off the windshield.
4. Driver side one requires removal of the wiper blades (remove the nuts, lightly bang it with rubber mullet if it won't come off). Just don't forget to mark wiper blade position so that installation is easier later on.

Next, you need some struts. I got a set of struts with mounting brackets from eBay for under $40 - "Hood Lift Supports 4547" is the search term to use. Go for the ones with ball heads, as you'll need that.

Finally, you'll need to drill a hole in your car for the lift bracket lip (or whatever it's called). Measure thrice, drill once. I found it a lot more convenient to do this with the hood off the car (a lot easier to remove then hood than you might think). I chose to make mine for a tight fit (the rectangular-ish slot on the right in the first pic), whereas Toyota in Gen4.5 just has a fat round hole drilled there. Here are some pictures:
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Once the measuring and drilling is done, screw in the bottom of the strut. Re-install your hood if you haven't already, and pop in the top onto the heads, which you have screwed into the hood by now (there's only one place on the hood to screw them into. You cannot miss it). :thumbsup:

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That's it. You're done. Hope you enjoyed this write-up.
 
#2 ·
I'd already stickied your original thread on this where you figured out what's needed. But I'll replace that with this one because it's better.
 
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#5 ·
I've seen some on eBay, but they were asking for too much money ($120 or so with S&H). I found mine at a junkyard in PA. There's currently one more there, as far as I know, but it's in PA.

I also considered contacting the sellers on eBay who are parting Camrys to see if they would sell the cowls. After all, who on earth buys those things?" :thumbsup:
 
#7 ·
You can, I suppose. In my case, I had to figure everything backwards: first purchased the struts, then realized they won't fit. :thumbsup:

Besides, old struts may be weak, unable to hold the hood. With these new ones, I just press the hood release thing, and it opens completely on it's own. Slowly. That's awesome, in my book. ;)
 
#16 ·
UPDATE: As I discovered, some 97-99 cars came with NO threaded nut in the hood for the hood strut to mount. This is a problem. My second hood was such. My solution was to drill a hall for the strut bolt, and drill a bigger hole nearby to put a nut in through.

It has been a few weeks since, and even though the strut is working well, the mounting stud has slightly bent the area in the hood near where I drilled a hole. I am OK with that, as I think it will hold, structurally, but I would advise anybody attempting this to be extra cautious, and test everything before calling it complete.

REMEMBER: Hood struts exerts a LOT of pressure, so it's no toy.
Below is the picture of my setup, and you can see that where the strut bolt is mounted to the hood, the mounting surface is bent. The black cover is for the larger hole I drilled to fit the nut through. I hope my explanation makes sense.
Image
 
#17 · (Edited)
I can also confirm that my Japanese build 99 does not come with any holes or nuts in the hood to mount these on. I also wanted to put on these instead of that silly original pin holding the hood up a few months ago, but decided not to as I'd have to drill holes in the hood - with fear or it starting to rust in my mind.
Too bad though, struts are so much better, and you won't have anything in your way when working under the hood. :(

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#30 ·
Maybe. The largest size they show is 5/16" and the outside diameter is 1/2". If the hole in the hood is much larger than 1/2" then probably not. If it's smaller, and can be enlarged to 1/2" then maybe.

If the hole in the hood is the required 1/2" then I'd get a 1/2" flat washer and see if it would fit between the hood and the nutsert before it is tightened down to help distribute the force over a larger area on the hood.

I'd take a look at them and see if they are heavy duty enough for the application.

BTW, I just checked and Fastenal has a branch 2 miles from my house, :D and I'm going drop by this afternoon and see if I can get some of the 1/4" and 1/2" nutserts.

Hopefully I can buy some of them in a smaller quantity and not have a minimum order of 100 each.

.
 
#32 ·
Guys, the problem here is not the strength of the fastener, but the strength of the plate the fastener will go into - it is very thin.

If you had a 1/8" steel plate, one of the heavy duty nutserts would work just fine. However, you're dealing with 1mm or less plate, which presents two problems: very little area for the nutsert to crimp onto, and plate that is not strong enough itself. At the very minimum, I would suggest putting a BIG washer on the inside AND outside to distribute the force. Without it, the nutsert will simply bend and stretch the hole and pop out. You may even be able to slide a washer in between the hood frame and the outer sheet, without drilling or cutting.

If I were to do this again, I would use much bigger and stronger washers than I did, or even introduce a strong supporting plate and rivet/screw it in place to distribute the force, just like Toyota did with Gen4.5 (and for a very valid reason).:my2cents:
 
#41 ·
It's not 1/2", it's 13mm :rofl2:

I've been wanting hood struts for a long time and found this thread but thought my hood was ghetto bc I didn't have the threaded hole on my hood either. I'm going to try welding a thicket piece of steel on the hood, drill and tap it, and see if that helps.
 
#34 · (Edited)
#36 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what the "approved" method of installing the Fastenal ones, but the rivet type ones work like this:


BTW, I noticed that the link I posted from eBay requires some special air tool, so before I went and ordered one of them, I'd send a not to the seller and ask for detailed instructions. Probably needs an air tool, because the nutsert is steel, rather than aluminum.


Here's another one, with an installation tool that is pretty clever.

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