02 Sensor Removal Horror! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 11-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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02 Sensor Removal Horror!

Hey guys. So I know this is a car-world wide problem and what not but I have never had this experience with any other car i have ever had! I am relatively a novice when it comes to engine work and what not but I like to fix whatever I can instead of paying hundreds for the same type of work. Recently I have decided to change my 02 sensors since im at 140k which is about that time. I got about 2 and a half rotations in when it seized on me and its been a battle ever since . I can get about a half rotation from it but anything else its stuck.Any or suggestions from anyone? ...BTW i have a 1998 Camry V6.





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Old 11-12-2012, 04:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Will it tighten back in? If so just keep tightening it, loosening it, tighten, loosen. You might get it a little looser each time.

If not

More blaster?
Heat?
Let blaster soak?
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolink654 View Post
Will it tighten back in? If so just keep tightening it, loosening it, tighten, loosen. You might get it a little looser each time.

If not

More blaster?
Heat?
Let blaster soak?

yea I tried the the loosen tighten method but it wont tighten all the way either. It seems like its just stuck between two threads. I have soaked it with the pb blaster for the last two days with no results. I think my last resort would be heating it up with a torch because i tried with just the engine heat with no success at all
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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at this point to the bolt is pretty much stripped. I started with the 02 sensor socket and a breaker bar and now my only option is vice grips smh
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'd heat it. A propane torch probably won't be enough though. Cherry red with an oxy acetylene though, and I think it'll come right.

'93 V6 Sedan. Stock.
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd heat it. A propane torch probably won't be enough though. Cherry red with an oxy acetylene though, and I think it'll come right.

'93 V6 Sedan. Stock.
I have more access to a propane one than and oxy and really dont have alot of money to spend (only 22 with a crappy full time job in nyc) so my options are limited but I def will try this


Question though....When applying heat what is my best option for heating it without getting any heat transferred to the sensor itself?...Wont the sensor also expand with the hole?

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Old 11-12-2012, 04:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It won't expand as much as the hole. But you could soak the sensor with the blaster. It will produce heavy smoke, but won't catch on fire(try not to inhale the smoke). This should cool down the sensor enough to loosen it.
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It won't expand as much as the hole. But you could soak the sensor with the blaster. It will produce heavy smoke, but won't catch on fire(try not to inhale the smoke). This should cool down the sensor enough to loosen it.

Im definitely going to try this tommorow and let u guys know how it goes.Thanks for all the advice though!
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I forgot about the fire and ice trick. I've used that many times.

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Old 11-12-2012, 10:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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at this point to the bolt is pretty much stripped. I started with the 02 sensor socket and a breaker bar and now my only option is vice grips smh
Just the Breaker Bar? No cheater pipe for extra support or anything??

as for an idea to get it off, see if you can weld a socket to that sensor, get a cheater bar + Breaker bar and that turn that thing out. Something should give at that point.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Remember to use some anti-seizing compound on the threads when you install the new one. That will prevent this from happening again. :gewd:
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Last time I had this happen (and not to an O2 sensor socket) I ended up using a large pipe wrench to remove it. If you have enough room to use one, it was the only thing I had that could actually grip the thing good. If removing the manifold is an option (and it will be at some point) then you will definitely have the room at that point.
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Try the famous ATF/acetone mix, works miles better than PB Blaster or try Liquid Wrench/Kano Kroil

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Try bringing the car up to operating temperature then try and remove the sensor. Works for me.

Saw that ATF/acetone post years ago on the bobistheoilguy.com forum.

Here was the intro.

The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!


The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
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Last edited by Brit101; 11-16-2012 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Saw that ATF/acetone post years ago on the bobistheoilguy.com forum. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!
I've never heard of that combo used as a penetrating fluid before. Is it used in equal parts?

BTW, I've used Kano Laboratories SiliKroil with great results in the past.
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