Oil smells like gas, oil leak, smoke on startup

[TFG1067]

Hi! I'm new to the forum, and working on cars in general. I'm not quite sure how to lay out all this information, so I'll try my best to make this clear. Any input is appreciated!
I have a 2000 Camry LE 4cyl Engine - 130k miles

Gas smell:

I just noticed my oil smelled very strong like gas the last time I changed my oil. After looking around it seems like it might be caused by a bad fuel injector. Are there any other possibilities? I didn't see very many, so I'm not sure what else to be looking at.

I thought it might be the spark plugs not working quite right and too much gas mixing with the oil, so I just replaced the spark plugs (not sure they had ever been replaced, kinda burned looking). When changing the spark plugs, I noticed the 4th plug had oil on the top part when the rubber piece connects to it, so I replaced the tube gaskets on top. There's still a small amount of oil in that tube, so I'm guessing it wasn't the gasket? Or maybe it needs to be tightened? (which brings me to the next point).

Oil Leak:

I also replaced the valve cover gasket (oil looked like it was leaking around the back edges). I either did a bad job (buying a torque wrench to re-tighten and make sure I have 30lbs on it), or there's another source of the leak. I used this sealant http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=526681_0_0_

Smoke:

On startup it smokes a little out of the back. I heard this could be caused by a bad injector as well, because the unburned gas washes the oil out or something and they get burned together. Not sure what that really means

[camrtm3]

this actually sounds like a blown head gasket. what color is your oil when changing it?

[TFG1067]

Hmmm...The oil was pretty dark. Dark brown.

The top of my radiator did "blow" a couple months ago (crack in the top), but when I replaced it there was still a good amount of coolant, so I didn't think the engine had been affected

[CrystalMethod]

I'd actually lean in the direction of worn piston rings (gas smell and smoke on start up), and leaking valve seals (smoke on start up).

[RonR]

Camry 5SFE 4cyl engines do sometimes need to have the spark plug tubes resealed at the bottom, so valve cover off, unscrew tube, put sealant on threads, screw back in.
If you look in this DIY section
Camry FAQ ------> READ FIRST -----> Comprehensive List of Gen 3/4 INFO and DIY
You will see the DIY on doing these tubes for the 5S-FE engine, with pictures


Gas in the oil is not common, if you are having to crank the engine over several times before it starts, unburnt gas in the cylinders can "wash" past the rings on the pistons.
The gas generally evaporates pretty fast as engine warms up.
Once engine starts, and it is not missing, there is no way gas can get into the oil, there is no connection between these two systems except the cylinders.

Exhaust "smoke" comes in three "flavors":
White is coolant/water, if continual might be a blown head gasket, but there are better signs of that
Blue is oil, usually worn rings or valve guides, this comes with high miles, this is often seen when you first accelerate after coasting.
Black is fuel(gas), this is a sign of running too rich, with fuel injection this usually means a sensor problem, and the CEL(check engine light) should come on.

Make sure your engine is warming up to the correct Temp, temp needle on dash should be just at or slightly below 1/2.
If its lower then ECU(engine computer) will continue to run engine rich until it warms up.
Cooler running engine means Thermostat is not working, did you change it when you changed rad?

[camrtm3]

Woops miss read the smokes part.

[TFG1067]

Originally Posted by CrystalMethod

I'd actually lean in the direction of worn piston rings (gas smell and smoke on start up), and leaking valve seals (smoke on start up).

Is this something I would most likely need a shop to do?

Originally Posted by RonR

Camry 5SFE 4cyl engines do sometimes need to have the spark plug tubes resealed at the bottom, so valve cover off, unscrew tube, put sealant on threads, screw back in.

Thanks for the link! I'll be sure to do that soon

Originally Posted by RonR

Gas in the oil is not common, if you are having to crank the engine over several times before it starts, unburnt gas in the cylinders can "wash" past the rings on the pistons.

It starts up pretty fast. It used to hesitate a little, but I replaced my battery (it died) and plugs and those problems went away.

Originally Posted by RonR

Exhaust "smoke" comes in three "flavors"

I'll have to pay more attention. I think it looked grey/white-ish

Originally Posted by RonR

Make sure your engine is warming up to the correct Temp, temp needle on dash should be just at or slightly below 1/2.
did you change it when you changed rad?

My engine temp is usually at 1/2, or slightly under when first driving it for the day. I had the thermostat changed a few weeks before the radiator went. It had died in the open position I think they said. I did the radiator myself because I didn't have enough for the shop to do it.

[camrtm3]

For replacement of piston ring and valve seals its pretty expensive. At that point you are talking about a full engine tare down.

Gray/whiteish smoke and its only on start up when its cold... that is water but water cause your drastically changing the temp of the exhaust. Do it happen when its warm/hot outside?

[TFG1067]

Originally Posted by camrtm3

For replacement of piston ring and valve seals its pretty expensive. At that point you are talking about a full engine tare down.

greeeaat..

Originally Posted by camrtm3

Gray/whiteish smoke and its only on start up when its cold... that is water but water cause your drastically changing the temp of the exhaust. Do it happen when its warm/hot outside?

I'll have to check next startup, but I think it's mainly when it's cold. I notice it most when it's been sitting for a couple days too I think

[TFG1067]

should I pursue the fuel injector option? or are you guys not very convinced that could be a problem?

[RonR]

On cold days all engines will blow "smoke" on start up, this is condensation, similar to why the windshield will fog up on cold days but not warm days.
As engine warms up "smoke" should be less, but depending on the outside temp and humidity it might stay around but always more when engine is cold.


In general your cars computer knows best, IF(big if) the sensors and other components are working.

In 1997 the Camry's, 4 and 6cyl, switched to OBD II Trouble codes, prior to that OBD I was used, so any Camry made after 1996 uses these codes(1996 Camry V6 used ODB II, not 4cyl).
These are codes the computer will store in its memory, if something needs attention the computer will turn on the CEL(check engine light), but not for everything.

Here is a list of all the OBD II codes.
OBD-II Trouble Codes: Full List!

So first question is does your CEL light work.
When you turn on the key does it light up?
And does it go off after engine starts?

Some people remove or disable the CEL bulb before they sell a car, not honest but it does happen.

Most auto parts stores will loan you or come with you to the parking lot and read your OBD II codes for you.
(you can often buy OBD II code readers for under $50 on sale)
This might tell you if engine has been running rich or not.

The engine computer has two "modes", open loop and closed loop
When computer is in open loop mode it ignores many of the sensors, O2 sensor for sure.
Open loop is used until engine warms up, or when you have a heavy foot and WOT(wide open throttle)
In open loop computer uses preset injector and timing settings.

Closed loop gets you the best gas mileage, the computer monitors the O2 sensor for rich or lean conditions and sets injector duration accordingly.

If you notice a decrease in mileage then you might be running rich.

If you think you might be running rich I would put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank the next time you fill up or 1/2 a can for 1/2 tank.
This treatment works to clean off the injector nozzles so they spray instead of drip, which happens if they get dirty.
Dripping nozzle doesn't mix fuel with the air as well so O2 sensor shows lean condition, computer increase duration of injector being open to fix lean state, so more fuel is used.

You can pull the injectors, but outside of obvious problems there is no real way to test them.