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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-13-2012, 09:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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This product (see link below), or one of its related products, may be an option here. I would consider it temporary, but if temporary means a few years - that's not bad at all, is it?

http://www.belzona.com/products/1000/1111.aspx
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Because of daily expansion and contraction of the block any epoxy fix would be in the temporary repair area.

Over 30 years I have used the Bar's brand for coolant leaks, probably only 5 or 6 times though.
Not once have I ever had a problem with heater core or rad clogging because of the Bar's.

I have fixed cars that people used stop leak products on that did have clogged rads and cores, but this was NOT caused by the stop leak product.
The cause of the clogging, and the leak, was because cooling system was corroding from the inside out, lol, they never changed coolant or flushed the system, so clogging was already well under way before stop leak was used.

This is just my personal opinion and observation.
I think the "myth" of the clogging is from the general idea that something that clogs a leak must then clog any smaller passages, which is true but heater cores and rads do not have small passages, they are large in comparison to a leak passage in the system.
The "myth" is repeated often and reinforced by mechanics or "wanna be" mechanics because it reinforces their roll as a service provider.
Bar's does NOT fix the leak, it stops the leak until it can be repaired properly.

Last edited by RonR; 12-13-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akhoundog View Post
Highly unlikely, shortly after purchasing it i had them install a "T-belt kit" which included the tensioner, waterpump, and t-belt. they also did a coolant flush with fresh coolant.

the car spends most of it's time here in anchorage which rarely goes below -15

coolant is usually good to around -35.

the car was used once at big lake at around -40 but i started it every few hours since there was no power there to plug in the heater. however if the coolant did freeze isnt that what the freeze plugs are for? the leak didnt start till long after that as well.
i may get a second opinion.
Misconception...they are not freeze plugs, they are core plugs. They originate from the casting process, to remove the core sand from the interior of the cast parts.
I personally have never heard of one popping out, but I have heard of many cracked blocks.
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Last edited by 9T6AvalonXLS; 12-13-2012 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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well i replaced my camry wagon with a 2001 bmw 325xi w/ leather and full options. this is a great car but i miss my camry

having a manual is nice tho...


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Old 12-27-2012, 07:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Man I bet the maintenance will eat you up compared to a Camry!
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:33 AM   #21 (permalink)
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... try welding it up

You don't have to have a lot of weld strength, just enough surface integrity to seal the leak. I would think it would be worth a try.

Here is a link to some cast iron weld rods. Maybe a local welding shop can help you out.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx

Here is a link to some cast iron welding repair techniques ... Maybe you could contact the company mentioned here.:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/welding-cast-iron-detail.aspx

... at the end of that page is a method using studs at the crack terminations, which are welded over after placement.

If you are not versed in welding, find a local shop.
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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i sold the camry as a mechanics special.


insurance on the bmw is actually 5 bucks a month cheaper, i can only assume it's because it's awd has traction control/stability control and abs.
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