3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 1998 Camry, 4 cylinder. For the past 4 weeks, I've been getting these codes and my CEL light will stay solid and then flash at times. I went to my local Advance Auto Parts store and had the codes read and this is what I got. I've already had the ignition coils replaced and CEL is still on and flashing.
The runs fine as far as I can tell.
I have a 1998 Camry, 4 cylinder. For the past 4 weeks, I've been getting these codes and my CEL light will stay solid and then flash at times. I went to my local Advance Auto Parts store and had the codes read and this is what I got. I've already had the ignition coils replaced and CEL is still on and flashing.
The runs fine as far as I can tell.
What should my next step be?
Others will chime in that know more specifics about the car.
-a flashing cell means misfires. Misfires means unburnt fuel in you'd CAT. Unburnt fuel in the cat will trash the cat. You should not drive with a flashing cel
the p0340 is a cam sensor code. The rest are misfire codes. How old and how many miles on your timing belt?
1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)
The timing belt was changed back in mid October of 2012. They guy who changed it did a crappy job and the belt was loose. The car had a rough idle and the engine actually cut off a couple of times while I was at a stop light. The light started flashing about a month or so after the job. I had another mechanic put a new timing belt on there about two weeks ago. All of the rough idling went away and the car runs fine. The light actually went off two days after the repair was completed, but then it came back on the next day. I got the codes again today and it was the same codes.
The car runs fine. Do you think I just need to clear the codes with a scanner? I'm having a tune-up done on Wednesday (spark plugs, wires, pcv valve, air filter and fuel filter replaced) and I'll get the mechanic to clear the codes then.
Is there any way to reset the computer without an OBDII scanner?
The timing belt was changed back in mid October of 2012. They guy who changed it did a crappy job and the belt was loose. The car had a rough idle and the engine actually cut off a couple of times while I was at a stop light. The light started flashing about a month or so after the job. I had another mechanic put a new timing belt on there about two weeks ago. All of the rough idling went away and the car runs fine. The light actually went off two days after the repair was completed, but then it came back on the next day. I got the codes again today and it was the same codes.
The car runs fine. Do you think I just need to clear the codes with a scanner? I'm having a tune-up done on Wednesday (spark plugs, wires, pcv valve, air filter and fuel filter replaced) and I'll get the mechanic to clear the codes then.
Is there any way to reset the computer without an OBDII scanner?
I have set the table nicely for the experts is there any thing else you might want to tell us about the car before I call airman Cecil O'mally and Anthony Rodriguez to the stand??
IMHO if the cell is flashing, resetting or disconnecting the bat cable will not help in the LR? Has the CEL FLASHED SINCE THE "good" Mechanic fixed the TB?
1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)
The light went off by itself two days after the second mechanic re-did the botched timing job. It then started flashing again about a day later while I was driving on the highway. Later in the day, the light stayed on with the intermittant flashing. Do you that the engine misfiring is tripping off the p0340 code since the misfiring codes popped up before the p0340 code? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.
The light went off by itself two days after the second mechanic re-did the botched timing job. It then started flashing again about a day later while I was driving on the highway. Later in the day, the light stayed on with the intermittant flashing. Do you that the engine misfiring is tripping off the p0340 code since the misfiring codes popped up before the p0340 code? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I am not a certified mechanic but I would have cleared the codes and disconnected the negative battery cable after "fixing" the TB.
The car could have been neglected and the misfires are from bad plugs and wires and the p0340 was not cleared. IMHO the misfires did not cause the p0340
Just to have more info. Does the engine oil and coolant look funky or does it seem normal?
Let's see what the other think
1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)
The second mechanic forgot to bring his OBDII scanner with him when he did the job. It was a 6 am job, so it was understandable.
The oil looks fine. Toyota pink coolant wasn't used for my coolant flush, but the green coolant was used. But that I don't think that would cause those codes. The coolant level looks fine.
The second mechanic forgot to bring his OBDII scanner with him when he did the job. It was a 6 am job, so it was understandable.
The oil looks fine. Toyota pink coolant wasn't used for my coolant flush, but the green coolant was used. But that I don't think that would cause those codes. The coolant level looks fine.
Let's see what the others think. If I were you I would start using the OEM parts. I would buy the OEM wires, plugs, etc from rockauto.com and then bring them to the mechanic.
1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)
1997-2001 4 cylinder has twin coils, externally mounted. One coil supplies spark to cyls 1 & 4, the other to 2 & 3 (pic in thread below). The fact you're getting misfires on cyls 2 & 3 makes that coil a suspect. You could try swapping the coils and see if the misfires move to 1 & 4. Or you could ohm them out. I don't have the specs for them; maybe someone else could chime in.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, dark emerald pearl, owned since new. Replaced HGs @332k, now at 344k
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, super white II, acquired w/ 139k, now at 280k
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung, Ohlins rear shock, Race Tech cartridge emulators in forks, 47k miles
^^^what he said
I've seen camshaft sensors act weird, but usually would affect all cylinders
also you can test the camshaft sensor
(a) Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector.
(b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals.
Resistance: If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor.
EDIT: more info
and here's the specs for the ignition coil
(a) Disconnect the high-tension cords from the ignition coils.
(b) Inspect the secondary coil resistance.
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the high-tension terminals.
cold 9.7 - 16.7
hot 12.4 - 19.6
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.
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is there any thing else you might want to tell us about the car before I call airman Cecil O'mally and Anthony Rodriguez to the stand?? 
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