I am sorry to hear that you are still experiencing problems... I am quite surprised none else contributed that much to this thread/problem
I am confused about a few things. You said a few days ago that
got the iac working
but now you
finally broke down and bought a new iac valve for over two hundred bucks
If you got the IAC working as shown in the test procedure and discussions in this and other threads, then why did you spend that money on a new IAC valve?
Anyways, did you double check the new IAC valve? Resistance values, apply battery, etc..etc.. ? Did you push the wiring connector all the way into the IAC valve ? I asked you a hundred times, but did you put back those 3 hoses on the bottom in their correct location ?
I am not familiar with what is going on with your cat temperatures ...
I am not sure if there is a separate fuse just for the IAC wiring.
Regarding the TVV, do you have the vacuum routing diagram on the underside of the hood (where the latch is) ? If not, the top vacuum hose of the TVV usually goes to the throttle body (there are 3 vacuum tubes in line..the one that's closer to the firewall/windshield is the hose that goes to the top part of the TVV). The bottom hose of the TVV goes to the charcoal canister. See the following diagrams:
Are you sure you jumped TE1
on a warm engine ? When you do this, the engine idle speed should increase for about 5 seconds then drop back down.
On a fully warmed up engine, the idle should be 750 +/- 50 RPM.
Regarding, the TPS, that's a rather delicate sensor...don't clean it or damage it:
Like I said, if you ruled out timing belt/timing, vacuum leaks, EGR issues, then most of the idling problems is caused by the IAC valve. Have you taken a look at the timing belt, vacuum leaks, if EGR plugged up ...etc.. ? Plenty of good topics around here on these issues...do a search!