I am sorry to hear that you are still experiencing problems... I am quite surprised none else contributed that much to this thread/problem
I am confused about a few things. You said a few days ago that
Quote:
Originally Posted by genso
got the iac working
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but now you
Quote:
Originally Posted by genso
finally broke down and bought a new iac valve for over two hundred bucks
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If you got the IAC working as shown in the test procedure and discussions in this and other threads, then why did you spend that money on a new IAC valve?
Anyways, did you double check the new IAC valve? Resistance values, apply battery, etc..etc.. ? Did you push the wiring connector all the way into the IAC valve ? I asked you a hundred times, but did you put back those 3 hoses on the bottom in their correct location ?
I am not familiar with what is going on with your cat temperatures ...
I am not sure if there is a separate fuse just for the IAC wiring.
Regarding the TVV, do you have the vacuum routing diagram on the underside of the hood (where the latch is) ? If not, the top vacuum hose of the TVV usually goes to the throttle body (there are 3 vacuum tubes in line..the one that's closer to the firewall/windshield is the hose that goes to the top part of the TVV). The bottom hose of the TVV goes to the charcoal canister. See the following diagrams:
Are you sure you jumped
TE1 and
E1 on a warm engine ? When you do this, the engine idle speed should increase for about 5 seconds then drop back down.
On a fully warmed up engine, the idle should be 750 +/- 50 RPM.
Regarding, the TPS, that's a rather delicate sensor...don't clean it or damage it:
Like I said, if you ruled out timing belt/timing, vacuum leaks, EGR issues, then most of the idling problems is caused by the IAC valve. Have you taken a look at the timing belt, vacuum leaks, if EGR plugged up ...etc.. ? Plenty of good topics around here on these issues...do a search!