3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
so i finally started to work on it today as some contractors were working to fix the water leak in the garage (had to be there to "supervise" the job)
anyways, I had enough time to run the wires, find the ground, install an on/off switch, install light in front passenger foot area, created a short circuit as i was turning off the light when the car was on (not sure if it was a short circuit or what, but the car engine immobilizer just kicked in, immobilizing the engine. had to reset the car to fix the problem)
my guess of the cause of the problem is that i didn't have fuse for the floor lights. i just tuck the wire with the fuse into the fuse slot, and ground the ground to the bolt that secured the front seat. (that happened to be the only place i can find to ground inside the car, on the floor.)
the on/off switch is wired as positive (or should i use negative for on/off?) before the first LED.
this set up only works when car is on. it does not turn on with the doors open.
however, i will try to wire it like this set up tomorrow (or when i figure out which diode i need)
since i dont have tints on, it is going to be pretty bright when looked from outside. not sure if its the look that i want, chances are i will paint them green to match the exterior color if i decide they are too bright for night time driving.
WTF do you need a diode and fuse for? All I did was wire it all in with a secondary switch for ON/OFF/DOOR using the factory fuse like 3 years ago.
i want my set up to light up with door, as well as when the car is moving. but at the same time, i don't want to connect it to the dome up in the middle of headliner. i still need to figure it out though, so i add a on/ off switch in case it is being too bright at night.
do you have pics of your set up? i'm more of a visual learner so pics might help. thanks.
"This setup allows you to control the floor lights at will OR mimic the dome light depending on the switch position. The diode keeps the dome light from turning on when the switch is flipped.
I put dome as the source but if those pink and grey wires do the same then that could be an alternate source as well."
source: LED Floor Lights, post number 78.
so if the guy says it will work (as he is explained it out in the thread) it is probably doable.
pics up:
this is the only set i've done today. front passenger seat. it looks pretty bright, but in reality it's not THAT bright. don't think there will be serious glares on the window at night. at most it's probably just be as bright as the instrument cluster glare on driver's side window.
if it's really too bright, then i'll paint it green, to make it not as bright, but still maintain that stylish look
the on/ off switch. i decided to put it there only because it's a last minute decision. i've run the wires and secured the wires already, so if i were to add this switch on the dash i'd need to redo the wires. so i got lazy and it turned out that position is not that bad at all. all i need is to secure it with something durable. e-tape is not gonna hold out for long.
i forgot to take a pic of the ground. will do that with the end result shot tomorrow (or whenever i finish)
theres actually a non illuminated factory switch that would fit in one of the two slots next to the dimmer switch. let me find the p/n hold (i have a fog light there, and theres 3 prongs but im guessing for the other one it would just be two (since it doesn't need power for the light)
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i got it: the p/n is PT297-89013-sw
heres a pic from yotatech http://www.yotatech.com/f2/andymod-2...active-204623/
( i didn't want to link the pic directly to the guys photobucket) its the 4th pic down on the right. just a thought so u can just shut off the switch during the daytime so the leds stay off and flip it on at night w/o a light on the switch on all the time
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i got it: the p/n is PT297-89013-sw
heres a pic from yotatech http://www.yotatech.com/f2/andymod-2...active-204623/
( i didn't want to link the pic directly to the guys photobucket) its the 4th pic down on the right. just a thought so u can just shut off the switch during the daytime so the leds stay off and flip it on at night w/o a light on the switch on all the time
that is EXACTLY what i've been looking for, it's just i dont know where to look for it, now with this switch i can put the switch up on the dash when i redo the wiring over the weekend.
they should have this switch sold at toyota parts department in every dealer, right? or do i have other places (not online though) to look for it?
One: I've done this, you'll love it if you haven't finished already.
Two: His fuse location if perfectly fine. Actually its semi- redunant as the pink wire is already fused with a 10 amp fuse, but I suppose this will break even faster. However, there is no "power" wire like that, electricity is more a constant circuit. Its just standard to think that electricity goes from the positive, through the lights, out the negative. In reality, there are flows going both ways. The standard is to put the fuse on the positive side ( and that is where I will eventually put a fuse even though it is unneeded) but functions fine on both.
Also I'm tired, sorry for the rambling I know I did above haha
EDIT: Also, just saw your diagram, and if you are going to the effort of fusing it, go smaller then 10 amps. I think 2 will cut it for my 4 strips, if not, 3 definitly will. I will probably calculate it before I try it out though.
EDIT 2: Last comment: Maybe you want to disconnect car battery since you are working with wires that have power 24/7. Just saying. Maybe not needed, but can't hurt. (Although you will have to reset clock and radio presets.)
One: I've done this, you'll love it if you haven't finished already.
Two: His fuse location if perfectly fine. Actually its semi- redunant as the pink wire is already fused with a 10 amp fuse, but I suppose this will break even faster. However, there is no "power" wire like that, electricity is more a constant circuit. Its just standard to think that electricity goes from the positive, through the lights, out the negative. In reality, there are flows going both ways. The standard is to put the fuse on the positive side ( and that is where I will eventually put a fuse even though it is unneeded) but functions fine on both.
Also I'm tired, sorry for the rambling I know I did above haha
EDIT: Also, just saw your diagram, and if you are going to the effort of fusing it, go smaller then 10 amps. I think 2 will cut it for my 4 strips, if not, 3 definitly will. I will probably calculate it before I try it out though.
EDIT 2: Last comment: Maybe you want to disconnect car battery since you are working with wires that have power 24/7. Just saying. Maybe not needed, but can't hurt. (Although you will have to reset clock and radio presets.)
im half way through lol. i got the front two ones installed and working, and man, im loving it already, now i want to hook it up so that it can both work with the on/off switch, but also with doors.
as for fuse and wiring, i ended up tapping into the "gauge" fuse slot, installed a 10A inline fuse, then the OEM fog light switch (i had it upside down, but oh wells), then to the lights. i grounded the ground to the bolt that secured the driver seat, and it worked well! tomorrow i'll be doing the rear two lights.
somehow i triggered the engine immobilizer alarm thing last time i did it, and it took me a hwile to figure it out, so this time, i had the fuse installed, and unplug the battery when i was connecting the wire into fuse. so far, nothing bad happened yet. pics will be in my next comment
the OEM fog light switch. it looks a lot cleaner this way.
front passenger side. flash off.
driver side. flash off. i had to install it a bit outer than passenger side because i couldn't find a place to put it. the panel on the driver side does not go as deep as the passenger side..
as for "does it affect me when im driving at night?"
no it doesnt. glare on window is not visible, if there was any.
I apologize in advance but i have a few noob questions
1) I understand where the fuse box is located but after looking at the fuse diagram for a while now i don't see a "dome" fuse. i see a guage one(which is what i assume light up the speedometer and such) I did find a dome use however in the fuse box under the hood, is this the one you tapped into?
2) I was wondering if anyone could help assist in finding DIY's for taking apart the interior as well
3) how do you post pictures? I've been on other forums, all of which used an attachment paper clip icon like the ones seen in emails. I dont see one here, or is this because I am a brand new member?
no problem with the noob questions! we all started noob and built our way through. me myself is kind of noob too lol
anyways, here's my answer for you:
1) im not so sure about the dome. i thought i saw a "dome" fuse inside the kick panel but i might be remember the wrong thing. you know, it's friday night, im a bit tipsy lol
2) i personally didnt take apart any interior trim, other than the kick panel to access the fuse box. i simply run my wire under the front seat, under the floor mats for rear seats, then under front passenger to under the glove box. i hide the wires under the floor mats so they are not as visible.
3)theres one icon with a sun and two mountains, click on it and then a little box pops out. you can insert image URLs there and click done or something like that. of course, the image has to be online already. the way i did it is to upload my images to facebook, then use the image URL
Your welcome :-) u know u could just as easily rotate the switch so its not upside down. And if u ran it to the done light it would only turn on when u open the door,(with the switch on), and just shut off the switch during the day
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