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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-12-2013, 10:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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floor lights for gen 4?

hello,
i've done my research on the forum and on google about this, but most stuff i got are for corollas or for newer gen camrys. so i'm starting a thread to ask and help the future modders.

i have bought myself 6 strips of LEDs. Four of them will work as floor lights that are going to be turned on when ignition is on, as well as when the doors are opened and ignition is off. The remaining two will work as interior dome lights, meaning they will go on roof top trim (along the top edge of the door) and only work with door open/ off.

now i found on 10th gen corolla forum a wiring diagram (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/32...-lights-6.html), see post #78 (i don't have the permission to post his diagram here, so i'm sorry but you have to go to the thread and look for the diagram)
and i'm not 100% sure if it's going to work for gen 4 camry? if so, will it achieve the effect i want, stated above?

also, i've found that in my gen 4 camry kick panel fuse box, there are fuses for heated seats and mirrors, while my car does not have those options on at all. Does that mean i can tap into those fuses, if i choose to go with the fuse box route? are those hot fuses, or are those just for the show and there's no current running through?

and finally, if you guys have done this, could you please post the done result, as well as photos of installation? i'm more of a visual learner.

thanks!
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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im interested in your first wiring method as well.
i have the leds but havent done much other then test them.

irrc others on the board have wired them when the parking lights turn on but
not connected as well to the doors.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O_loung1 View Post
im interested in your first wiring method as well.
i have the leds but havent done much other then test them.

irrc others on the board have wired them when the parking lights turn on but
not connected as well to the doors.
my theory is that since they are wired to a source that constantly feed power even with engine off (ie: dome light), they should work as the diagram illustrated.

now i just need to find a way to tap and hide the wires.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If yer Camry didn't come with those options...you can look carefully at the fuse slots fer the heated seats/mirrors and you'll find that there isn't any wiring/solenoids in place.

Not sure why he would put a fuse between the LEDs and ground. All that means is that the fuse wouldn't be providing any protection to the LEDs and the LEDs would take the brunt of the load before the fuse blew.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
If yer Camry didn't come with those options...you can look carefully at the fuse slots fer the heated seats/mirrors and you'll find that there isn't any wiring/solenoids in place.

Not sure why he would put a fuse between the LEDs and ground. All that means is that the fuse wouldn't be providing any protection to the LEDs and the LEDs would take the brunt of the load before the fuse blew.
not necessarily, my grandmas Camry did not have fog lights but has the wiring for them, all I need is a switch and the lights. It could be the same with he heated seats/mirrors. the best way to see if the fuse has power is to test it.

I wondered the same thing about his fuse location, it should be on the power line.

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Originally Posted by ws6616 View Post
also, i've found that in my gen 4 camry kick panel fuse box, there are fuses for heated seats and mirrors, while my car does not have those options on at all. Does that mean i can tap into those fuses, if i choose to go with the fuse box route? are those hot fuses, or are those just for the show and there's no current running through?
you can tap into the dome light fuse like I said before. You can actually cut the wires that go to the fuse and use a new in-line fuse.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JDOGG View Post
not necessarily, my grandmas Camry did not have fog lights but has the wiring for them, all I need is a switch and the lights. It could be the same with he heated seats/mirrors. the best way to see if the fuse has power is to test it.

I wondered the same thing about his fuse location, it should be on the power line.



you can tap into the dome light fuse like if said before. You can actually cut the wires that go to the fuse and use a new in-line fuse.
Im actually trying not to cut the wires so that when im moving on to the next car and handing this one to my younger cousin there wont be exposed wires or traces of cut wires.


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Old 01-14-2013, 05:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok im updating this as i find new ways to wire the wires. If the LEDs can have multiple sources of input, then for the floor lights i think i can tap them to fuse box using something that have currents running when ignition is turned on, as sell as tapping them to dome light. That way, i can achieve the result of having the floor lights turn on and off with the doors, as well as turning on and off with ignition.

So the question here is, will i be able to wire 2 sources of power for the led, and what would happen if those 2 sources are feeding the power at the same time? (Example: door opened and ignition is on?)

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Old 01-14-2013, 05:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I put floor lights in the front of my 98 Camry.

I used a fuse tap to a always hot fuse in the fusebox, then I spliced a ground into the door switch (since it grounds out to make the dome light come on). The way I have it, if the drivers door is opened, the drivers footwell lights up. Passenger door open lights up the passenger footwell.

To make them both light up I'd have needed to run a couple more wires and that is it.

To make them light up any other time, I don't know.

I soldered my own LED strips from bare LED's.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolink654 View Post
I put floor lights in the front of my 98 Camry.

I used a fuse tap to a always hot fuse in the fusebox, then I spliced a ground into the door switch (since it grounds out to make the dome light come on). The way I have it, if the drivers door is opened, the drivers footwell lights up. Passenger door open lights up the passenger footwell.

To make them both light up I'd have needed to run a couple more wires and that is it.

To make them light up any other time, I don't know.

I soldered my own LED strips from bare LED's.
Thats a pretty cool idea to have individual lights turn on with individual door!


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Old 01-15-2013, 01:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolink654 View Post
I put floor lights in the front of my 98 Camry.

I used a fuse tap to a always hot fuse in the fusebox, then I spliced a ground into the door switch (since it grounds out to make the dome light come on). The way I have it, if the drivers door is opened, the drivers footwell lights up. Passenger door open lights up the passenger footwell.

To make them both light up I'd have needed to run a couple more wires and that is it.

To make them light up any other time, I don't know.

I soldered my own LED strips from bare LED's.
oh and this just came to me, but what kind of fuse tap did you use? did you use one of the "add-a-fuse" thing? if so, how did you choose the fuse to use?

i saw them selling "add-a-fuse" kit at pepboys and autozone, and they come with 5, 7.5, and 10A fuses. the slot in the fuse box i planned to use is the heated seat (as it is probably the only slot that is free: cig and output are full. i got things connected to cig and output, so i dont want to risk it. radio is on all the time, and i'm not sure if it's a good idea to tap out of radio)

the heated seat uses a 20 fuse, so if i do go that route, do i need to get a 20 fuse onto the tap, or should i get something smaller?
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ws6616 View Post
oh and this just came to me, but what kind of fuse tap did you use? did you use one of the "add-a-fuse" thing? if so, how did you choose the fuse to use?

i saw them selling "add-a-fuse" kit at pepboys and autozone, and they come with 5, 7.5, and 10A fuses. the slot in the fuse box i planned to use is the heated seat (as it is probably the only slot that is free: cig and output are full. i got things connected to cig and output, so i dont want to risk it. radio is on all the time, and i'm not sure if it's a good idea to tap out of radio)

the heated seat uses a 20 fuse, so if i do go that route, do i need to get a 20 fuse onto the tap, or should i get something smaller?
the "door" fuse is always live even when the car is off but if you ground the lights to the door switch or the dome light then they won't be on all the time. you can slide the power wire into the fuse slot with the fuse.
like this

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Old 01-15-2013, 06:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JDOGG View Post
the "door" fuse is always live even when the car is off but if you ground the lights to the door switch or the dome light then they won't be on all the time. you can slide the power wire into the fuse slot with the fuse.
like this

Oh thanks. Do i need a kit for that? And if i do go that route (grounding the wires to the door) and i want them to stay on after ignition is on, can i have 2 grounds?

My original plan is to wire one source and ground from the dome light connector (the part where dome light goes) and the other source from fuse box with a fuse that goes on with ignition, and ground it to the body of the car. That way, i can achieve the effect i want: on with door open, on with ignition, and off with ignition off and door closed


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Old 01-15-2013, 10:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I used that kind. I just pulled random fuses and tested them with a volt meter until I found a hot all the time. I think it ended up being a 10amp that I tapped into and since LED's don't use much I think I have a 5 amp in the fuse tap. You could also tuck the wire under a fuse, or use one of these



In either of those cases I'd use an inline fuse.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I used that kind. I just pulled random fuses and tested them with a volt meter until I found a hot all the time. I think it ended up being a 10amp that I tapped into and since LED's don't use much I think I have a 5 amp in the fuse tap. You could also tuck the wire under a fuse, or use one of these



In either of those cases I'd use an inline fuse.
And how much amp should the inline fuse be?


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Old 01-16-2013, 01:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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another thought:
instead of running and tapping it through fuse box, maybe i can tap them to the dash light and dome light? that way, they light on when the parking lights are on, as well as when door's opened and parking light's off.
i dont mind tapping to dash light as the trace is not that visible when i remove the set up.

still waiting for the weather to get warmer...
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