'92 2.2L Camary w/ ignition & other troubles

[DougB]

Hey guys,

#1
I just finished fixing my friend's '92 2.2L Camary which was having some ignition issues. Starter turned over fine, but the engine wouldn't fire. Traced it back to the distributor mechanism, which was a little banged-up, so I replaced it with a reman'd unit from NAPA. Solved the problem.

However, during my search for the problem, I was on the phone with NAPA and asked for the "distributor" and they referred me to the "ignition module" instead. I picked up both, replaced the distributor ass'y first (which worked), but I cannot for the life of me find any ignition module. I have traced the wiring back from the distributor, through the firewall, and to the computer above the passenger's side footwell, but no ignition module that I can see.

Since the problem is solved, I intend to return the $209 ignition module that was purchased. However, I'd like to know if this car even has an ignition module, and if so - where is it located?

#2
When I first got to the car, I did some basic things like: check the oil... which I found to be 2.5qts low!!!
I'm guessing this crankcase only holds 4qts total. Anyone hear of a car that lived being that low on oil? Oh, and (she) was going 5000mi between oil changes... NEVER checking the dipstick (go figure).

Anyway, removed the plugs (which were soaked in oil) and got a peek into the combustion chamber. Worst looking combustion chamber I have EVER seen. I worked for awhile cleaning alot of the deposit with B12. I can't beleive how much carbon deposit was blown out of there. I'm dumbfounded at how this engine could still manage to work.

From what I can see of the cams, it's horrible. I'm planning on running "engine flush" through the crankcase tomorrow before the oil change. Opinions on this stuff (never used it before)? Also switching them to Mobil 1 5W-30.

New plugs, new distributor and everything seems to be running well, but there is an oil leak. In fact it's burning a lot of oil, which is where I'm assuming all the oil in the crankcase went to.

Wondering what your suspicions are?:
Valve job or piston rings?

TIA,
DougB

[shook]

Yes, there is an ignition module, though its more commonly referred to as an igniter on a Camry. Different name, same basic function. On the Camry, i beleive it is located on the driver strut tower, bolted onto a bracket.

I have personally owned a car that ran fine with no oil. I drove that Tercel for just about a week, then opened up the drain plug, and barely a puddle came out. I then changed the oil, and the car ran just dandy afterwards, so yes it is possible, but asbolutely not recommended.

Motor Flush imo is one of those things that cant really hurt, unless you dont follow the directions. Worse case scenario with that stuff is that it'll work so well that all that carbon and sludge will float to the oil pan, and possibly block the oil pick-up tube.

Just my opinion here also, but i wouldnt switch to synthetic oil so late in the stage of this engine's life. I "think" synthetic is just too thin and well.....too good for an engine that "used". But that's just my opinion.

Oil burning can be a few things, but more commonly i see valve stem seals as being the culprit rather than the piston rings, though the only way to be sure is of course to try one fix, then the other. Valve stems seals being the cheaper route, of course.

Well, hope i helped, if not, im sorry

[zoni]

this is a pic of my car when it had the pitiful 5sfe motor in it... it now houses a 1mz and standard tranny.



here is a pic of my v6 ignitor...

[Mike Gerber]

DougB,

The crankcase holds 3.8 quarts with the filter being changed. Most people just put in 4 quarts.

A compression test done both dry and then wet can tell you if it's rings or in the valve seal area. If the numbers go up with the wet test (putting about a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder and then redoing the compression test), then it is rings. Hope for the valve seals. They are a lot easier and cheaper.

Mike

[DougB]

Thanks guys.

Actually, it turns out the engine was 3qts low!
Still can't believe the thing ran less that much oil.

Found the ignition module. Boy do I feel stupid for missing that now.

New ignition system, brake flush, P/S flush, crankcase/cylinders cleaned, oil and filter change, and it's running like a champ again.

As for the smoke...
It does puff out a plume at cold startup, which I'm guessing is the valve seals. However, it also starts to smoke at higher rpms. I had my compression tester laying right next to me while I was fixin' other stuff - dunno why I didn't think of doing that today.

Anyway, next week I plan on cracking the A/T pan and changing the fluid and filter there. Also new valve cover gasket. I'll do a compression test and have a look at those valves next weekend too.

BTW, didn't investigate it too closely, but how do you get the valve cover off this thing. I don't see any obvious bolts holding it down. I did notice the giant hex at the top of the spark plug tube, but I thought "nah".

[zoni]

think again... thats how you do it... 4 bolts at the top of the plug tubes. then when you get them off it might need some convincing to get the valve cover off... i prefer a crow bar, but to each his own... use that you like to get it off. oh yeah, dont pry against the head, use another point to pry off of.

[DougB]

What parts am I going to need for a valve seal job on a '92 2.2L? How do you guys keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder? Rope trick?

Or can I find all this info on a search? (haven't been able to yet)

[88 LE]

Originally posted by DougB
What parts am I going to need for a valve seal job on a '92 2.2L?

Depends which method you choose for replacing the seals.

Its possible to replace the seals with the head still bolted on, but you need special tools to remove and install the valve springs.

Or you can remove the head and use a overhead valve spring compressor.

How do you guys keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder?

Pressurize the cylinder with a leakdown tester.

Or remove the cylinder head.