Hello all,
Thanks to those that helped me re tech tips recently. I just did my 60K miles service at home.
* PARTS: bought from FCP Groton (aka
http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com/)
* RAMSP: made my own using 2 x 8 lumber, see picture I posted at another board. This makes the job alot easier:
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/36832/
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Follow this order, do the easy first then the difficult later:
1. SPARK PLUGS:
- Straightforward. Use a bit of anti-seize compound on the plug threads.
2. BRAKE BLEEDING (I used DOT 4; OEM is DOT 3)
- The nice thing about the 2000 Camry is the brake bleeds by gravity, no need to pump the pedal.
- Gravity is abit slow but after about 5 minutes, the collecting bottle is half-full and that is good enough.
3. TIMING BELT:
- Straightforward.
- At 60K miles, change BOTH the PS belt and the ALTERNATOR-AC belt (no added labor because the TB process requires removing these 2 drive belts anyway).
4. FUEL FILTER (sits just below and slightly forward of the Brake Fluid Reservoir) the
- Remove the Air Filter Box (three 10-mm bolts at the bottom of the AF Box) to get access to the Fuel Filter.
(Change the AF anyway)
* LOWER end of Fuel Filter: Hold the Filter w/ 19-mm wrench, FUEL SUPPLY line's nut is 14-mm (use a flared wrench for better grip)
* UPPER end of Fuel Filter: Hold the Filter w/ 19-mm wrench, FUEL OUTLET line's nut is 17-mm.
* Use proper torque to prevent stripping thread.
* Once the new Fuel Filter is in, start the car and watch for any leak BEFORE re-installing the AF BOX (The care will sound a bit strange because the AF is not in (you will hear sound of air sucking into the intake rubber tube. This is normal)
* Reinstall the AF Box. Use a new AIR FILTER.
5. THERMOSTAT:
* Thermostat is 82 deg Celsius
* Use a new O-ring
* T-stat HOUSING is just next to the Alternator (toward the driver side), held by 2 10-mm nuts.
* Apply some hweel-bearing grease on the bolts to make installation easy and also to prevent seizing of the nuts.
* Coolant will drain out when removing the T-stat housing.
* Drain radiator by removing the plastic Drain **** (at bottom of radiator, slightly off the midline toward driver side).
* Check system capacity, I think it is about 7.5 quarts Total Capacity. Add about 3-3.5 quarts of Prestone Dexcool (Red Coolant). Fill the rest with water (Fill through the radiator cap).
* Suck the old coolant from the reservoir using a kitchen baster.
* Fill the reservoir with 50/50 mixture of Dexcool to slightly above the FULL mark (from my experience, after warming up for the first time, there is some air in the system which will be bled and fluid is sucked back into the system. Filling it slightly above the FULL mark will avoid you from refilling it later, just my way).
6. TRANSMISSION & DIFFERENTIAL:
* DIFFERENTIAL:
- Drain Bolt: with Hex (Allen) Socket.
- Fill Bolt is 17-mm
- Using a Clear Plastic Tubing, fill with Dexron-III fluid until it runs out of the Fill Hole (it takes about 1.5 quarts) then re-install the bolts.
* TRANSMISSION:
- Drain Bolt: with Hex (Allen) Socket.
- Fill Through the dipstick.
- Each cycle of drain and fill is about 3 quarts:
---- Drain then fill with 3 qts of Dexron-III fluid, start the car and run for abotu 1 minute, shift through gears R, D, 1, 2 spending at least 15 seconds in each gear. I actually drive the car around the block to allow good mixing of new fluid and remaining fluid in the system.
- I did 3 cycles then add 3 qts. This will remove94% of the old fluid (every drain-fill cycle remove 50% of the ATF in the pan).
Hope this helps someone.
cn
Chicago
2000 Camry 60K miles
Linear Mode
