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Old 10-05-2013, 11:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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P0330 / not replacing knock sensor

Hey

I been reading through the forums and before I go ahead and attempt the replacement of my knock sensors, I am not sure if this will make sense but has anybody had this error code and did not have to replace their knock sensors to fix this?

2001 Solara V6 imz-fe

i found this which is absolutely golden Diagnosing and replacing knock sensors on the 3VZ-FE V6
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i dont hear any knocking or pinging, but I do experience a small power loss/lack of acceleration,
and gas mileages seems normal/steady
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I think that knock sensors can detect inaudible to human ear knocks (pre-ignition detonation), you won't hear that, you will just feel effects of it when ECU reacts to those and retards timing or goes into a limp-mode.

the code P0330 means that ECU commenced a maximum timing retardation to prevent any possible damage to engine, because it lost signal from knock sensor. this behavior gets returned to normal with ignition switched off, so you don't even need to reset the ECU probably.

P0330 = Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction

DTC detection condition:
No knock sensor 2 signal to ECM with engine speed between 2,000 rpm and 5,600 rpm.

Trouble area:
-Open or short in knock sensor 2 circuit
-Knock sensor 2 (looseness)
-ECM

gas mileage usually goes down when this happens a lot and ECU falls into a limp mode because of it every time (until you cycle ignition).

apart from bad sensor, it could very well be a problem with wiring to the front bank's knock sensor. have you checked the plug already, maybe it's just loose?
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You should replace both knock sensors and also the wiring harness to the knock sensors. Murphy's law states that if one of the two knock sensors is bad and you only replace the one, then the other will go bad in a week. Seriously, the other one is just as old and could fail at any time

These knock sensors are critical, so they should be replaced when a fault code for their failure sets.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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These knock sensors are super sensitive, but usually don't go bad. They're also super expensive.

You have either a bad wiring harness or a bad knock sensor, there is no CEL if it determines a knock. Start by checking the sensor for tightness. You'd need an oscilloscope to test it's function, though. You can test the wire/connector.

I would replace the sensor. You'll need the Denso sensor as the other, in my experience, do not work. I got mine from Carquest for $190.
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just finished rebuilding a 1mz a month ago, within startup, both knock sensors were gone. Replaced them and wiring harness and no code since then. Its a pita to replace but not impossible
Goodluck
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Crash View Post
These knock sensors are super sensitive, but usually don't go bad. They're also super expensive.
I have a whole box of faulty knock sensors that tells otherwise. I've replaced them on Chevy, Cadillac, Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota.

Especially Nissan/Infiniti 3.0V6 like in the Maxima and I30 They even give you the connector and pigtail, since the connection on these must be clean and tight. My big mitts can barely reach under the intake manifold to get to the knock sensor on these, but if I have to replace one in a Pathfinder or other vehicle where the engine is not transverse, then major disassembly is in order.

Oh, DENSO only please.
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks guys appreciate it, yeah I'm going to have a nice big job ahead of me, I have some engine leaks im going to try and fix too, by replacing the rear valve cover gaskets,

and yep thats what I been told too replace both knock sensors,

am I able to check the wire tightness before I start operation or I have to remove the manifold for that?
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoHitD View Post
am I able to check the wire tightness before I start operation or I have to remove the manifold for that?
If you're asking about the connections at the knock sensors, no, there's no way to get a hand in there to check without removing the intake plenum and intake manifold.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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is this sensor located in the same spot on 1mz-fe as it is on 3vz-fe?
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yep. And there are two knock sensors, one mounted on each bank. You can see one of 'em in this pic, left of the coolant bypass hose. The other is blocked from view by the hose.

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Old 10-07-2013, 07:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR View Post
If you're asking about the connections at the knock sensors, no, there's no way to get a hand in there to check without removing the intake plenum and intake manifold.
yeah, thanks guys I appreciate it, the day i decide to operate is def going to be a fun a day , but at least i'll be saving money assuming I don't screw anything up or forget to screw anything :P, seems pretty straight forward though
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:35 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenixus View Post
I think that knock sensors can detect inaudible to human ear knocks (pre-ignition detonation), you won't hear that, you will just feel effects of it when ECU reacts to those and retards timing or goes into a limp-mode.

the code P0330 means that ECU commenced a maximum timing retardation to prevent any possible damage to engine, because it lost signal from knock sensor. this behavior gets returned to normal with ignition switched off, so you don't even need to reset the ECU probably.

P0330 = Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction

DTC detection condition:
No knock sensor 2 signal to ECM with engine speed between 2,000 rpm and 5,600 rpm.

Trouble area:
-Open or short in knock sensor 2 circuit
-Knock sensor 2 (looseness)
-ECM

gas mileage usually goes down when this happens a lot and ECU falls into a limp mode because of it every time (until you cycle ignition).

apart from bad sensor, it could very well be a problem with wiring to the front bank's knock sensor. have you checked the plug already, maybe it's just loose?
My 2001 Toyota Avalon just glow the check engine light 2 days ago. It's the P0330 code for bank 2 knock sensor. Where is the front bank's knock sensor wire at and what color? I erased the code to see if it would come back, it haven't.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by aznstylez View Post
My 2001 Toyota Avalon just glow the check engine light 2 days ago. It's the P0330 code for bank 2 knock sensor. Where is the front bank's knock sensor wire at and what color? I erased the code to see if it would come back, it haven't.

what engine do you have? I believe they are white wires, google the ECU wiring diagram for your car

I still have not replaced my knock or spliced the wires, driving with a check engine line for past 6-7 months or so, and its killin my fuel economy
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SoHitD View Post
what engine do you have? I believe they are white wires, google the ECU wiring diagram for your car

I still have not replaced my knock or spliced the wires, driving with a check engine line for past 6-7 months or so, and its killin my fuel economy
I have the 1MZ-FE with VVT-I engine. It has over 280,000 miles already. It's not making any knocking sound or any sound at all. My dad's 1999 Avalon with over 475,000 miles haven't have this sort of problem yet.
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