1993 V6 high idle...

[AlphaMale]

I went through the FAQ section and didn't see anything on idle. Continuing with my car search, the latest dud being a 5S-FE LE (ATF leak and missing 2 timing cover bolts), I ran into a nice V6 tonight, but the funny thing was during cold idle, when I put it into R, the idle only went down to 1100 rpm. Same with D. Such high idle! Is this common with that V6 engine???

[Toysrme]

That is what it should be.


When warm the A/T's idle at 800rpm out of gear, and when the A/C idle up is engauged, the car is cold, or the car is in gear it will idle 1000-1100rpm.

[coolchu001]

I have a 4cyl and on start up the engine idles around 1200rpm(P)...then on D or R it goes down to 800 or so.....after a few mintues of driving or at least get the engine warm, the idle on P is then lowered to around 800-900rpm

[JetspeedCamry]

Yes this is normal.
My 88 V6 does this aswell.

Cold idle in P or N = 1500-1600RPM
Cold Idle in drive gear = 1000-1100RPM
Warm Idle in P or N = 800RPM
Warm Idle in drive gear = 700-800RPM (sometimes 500..eeek!)

[AlphaMale]

Thanks for input guys. Strange; it's the first time I ran into an engine that idles that high in gear. I would have thought something was wrong with the idle air control valve. Anyways, I presume the idle is controlled by the ECU and should not be tampered with, eh? The only other thing about this car is that the passenger door bottom where the sturdy black trim is is dented in a few places. I am hoping to get the car in for inspection and if it meets my standards, I'll strongly consider it.

Are these cars still good used buys even if they were neglected or abused?

[Toysrme]

Well as long as the oil was changed once every 7500miles (not km) or 7months, they're bulletproof.

Idle is controlled by the ECU. You can play with the idle set screw, but after a few min it's just going to piss the ECU off and it'll raise the idle back to where-ever in hell it wants it to be!





You should be happy with the 3vz-fe 3.0L v6. It's very similar to the Nissan 3.0L found in the Maxima's. It's argueably a stronger(physically) motor, just without any aftermarket support. Doesn't matter, the only aftermarket parts you need to make N/A power and can't actually get are cams.

Simple work to the stock intake, new exhaust (y-pipe and back), ported and polished heads, and good ECU tuning should be maxing the stock injectors out badly. At which point you can get a new FPR and do a 190lph walbro swap for possibly a little more. (240-255hp, all depending)

Then you can buy a new clutch/built your Auto transmission and get ready for a turbo!

[AlphaMale]

Great input, thanks Toysrme. I'm hoping this bad-boy tests out nice; it's really for mom. I know this engine is indestructible, right in the same league as the Maxima VG30E motor, the 5M-GE, and the Corolla motors.

Originally Posted by Toysrme

Well as long as the oil was changed once every 7500miles (not km) or 7months, they're bulletproof.

Idle is controlled by the ECU. You can play with the idle set screw, but after a few min it's just going to piss the ECU off and it'll raise the idle back to where-ever in hell it wants it to be!





You should be happy with the 3vz-fe 3.0L v6. It's very similar to the Nissan 3.0L found in the Maxima's. It's argueably a stronger(physically) motor, just without any aftermarket support. Doesn't matter, the only aftermarket parts you need to make N/A power and can't actually get are cams.

Simple work to the stock intake, new exhaust (y-pipe and back), ported and polished heads, and good ECU tuning should be maxing the stock injectors out badly. At which point you can get a new FPR and do a 190lph walbro swap for possibly a little more. (240-255hp, all depending)

Then you can buy a new clutch/built your Auto transmission and get ready for a turbo!