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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-10-2013, 02:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA Oil Drain Plug

I stripped the oil drain plug on my 96 Camry V6. Could not get it to move either direction. I didn't think last time I changed the oil I tightened it that much. This has never happened before on any car that I've owned.

My question is this, when I get this stripped plug out and put a new one in, would it be OK to use anti seize lubricant on the new plug threads? By doing this I would hope I never run into this problem again. I would also make sure the plug is snug not over tightened.
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You can try restoring the threads with a tap (M12x1.5 I think) if it feels like it doesn't tighten then replace your oil pan with new drain plug. All 1MZ/3MZ 2WD oil pans fit and easy to obtain at junk yard like pick n pull. A light coat of oil to the threads will be okay, anti seize ain't necessary.

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Old 11-10-2013, 02:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you have a bolt that is difficult to get started in a threaded hole, there is a trick to make sure that it is in the correct groove.

Hold the bolt snugly against the opening, and carefully turn it in reverse, that is, counterclockwise. At some point, while you are turning the bolt in the reverse direction, you will feel or hear a click, as the bolt engages the topmost thread in the hole. Then you begin turning the bolt in the normal, or clockwise direction.

This almost always works ... spark plugs, pipes ... anything with threads.
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Can't get it to budge either direction it's in there good. I don't want to snap the head off the bolt
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Old 11-10-2013, 03:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Youve gotta reverse it out. The drain plug is submerged in oil, anti seize would not help. The drain plug wont seize in place with oil in the pan.

If you need a cheater bar then use it. After you get it out then use a oversize drain plug is the thread are in fact damaged.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i would soak that sucker in pbblaster for a day and see if that helps. It helped me in the past.
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I got the plug out after a tug of war with it and a pair of really heavy long pliers. The threads were OK but the washer on it was wasted. It was practically metal against metal. This was the reason the plug was stuck in the first place. Put in a new plug with washer and tightened it snug not tight. Glad I didn't need to replace the pan and the head on the bold didn't snap off.
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Last edited by TC01; 11-12-2013 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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1. Is the Old School oversize plug recommended at the Dealer and ETC? I used at least 2 in the 70s w/o a problem on American Built cars. They were designed to cut the new threads and hold the shavings ve them getting into your oil.

2. What is the torque spec on what Eng? I hope it has not been revised as with our 2001 valve cover (in Haynes Manual w/o me knowing 33 ft lbs revised to 17 ft lbs) exp and feel told me to stop at 30 (a lot but no problems so far and it w/n bottomed).

3. My Haynes oil plug torque spec is 36 ft lbs but I stop at 30 ft lbs from feel (due to how tight it is. Has that spec been chanced? Plus I check my snapping Sears T/W with my pointing Montgomery Wards T/W.

4. The Beal Bomber is only getting 3,000 mi before needing from new and I usually change vs adding. I feel something d/n break-in at 116,000 mi due to my Wife’s driving pattern. I am OK with the Old School 3,000 except knowing something d/n break-in.

5. Are you on your original valve cover gasket at what mileage? I feel our cover will indicate the oil use (the 5-30 Castrol d/n look bad..
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