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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-08-2013, 12:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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heater problems

have a 92 camry 2.2 and my heater really sucks. when i move the temp switch to the hot side feels like its clicking when you move over. so once i have it to the hot i only get nuke air comming out and have to put my fan on the lowest setting to actually get the car some what warm. its been in the 30's in the mornings and i been freezing my butt off. i did look at the thing in the hood that hooks up to that same cable for the switch i beleive its connected to the heater hose i moved that thing and it doesnt really help. it looks like someone replaced that part before on the heater hose cause its clamped in with a hose clamp. anyone ever had this problem?
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like you have a cut-off valve for the heater core you're looking at. It needs to be open so look at the position of the lever and then move the the dash switch and recheck the lever to see that it's changed as they can become sticky or jammed. You can also check that both heater hoses feel about the same temp and they should be warm. If not the valve could be broken closed or partly closed or the heater core could be clogged. If that's good then check your temp gauge. It should be probably 1/3 of the way up when at normal operating temps. If not your T-stat may be stuck open or opening too soon. (The spring can weaken allowing it to open too quickly.) I would consider low/no coolant flow thru the heater core or low coolant temp from a bad T-stat to be the most common problems. Good luck. Post back.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It should be about 1/2 gauge and should rise there within 3-5 miles or less and stay there. If it's not, you need to replace the thermostat.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies i do hear water running through the dash when i take off from a stop. I got a new 5 stat i will replace it anyway thanks

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Old 12-08-2013, 07:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Rushing water sounds mean there is air in the heater core, likely due to low coolant levels. When you replace the thermostat you'll also be bleeding the system of air.
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That probably explains no heat

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a thermostat and it doesn't have the little hole. Can i drill a small hole in it?

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Old 12-09-2013, 07:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I agree with Bitter about the possiblility of being low on coolant and/or having air in the system. If your heater core is clogged, there are videos on YouTube showing how to fix that (EricTheCarGuy has one). I've heard of people drilling a small hole in the thermostat, but what about the jiggle valve? Maybe you should just get a thermostat that already has the hole/jiggle valve (Beck/Arnley is a good brand).
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Toyota part has a jiggle valve.
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I used the OEM quality Stant replacement thermostat with good results .....
Like others have alread said, jiggle valve staright up at 12 o"clock posititon.
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Stant it is

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So i put a thermo stat from napa and the heater hose with the valve not getting hot but the other one is. When the radiator cooling fan turns on i gotta add water and still standing here watching it.

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Still no heat

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes, you can drill a small hole if the valve doesn't already have one. But that also tells me it's a cheap valve you want to avoid. Stant has different grades - from OE Exact to el cheapo that I don't care for.

However, both hoses should be about equally hot. If one is much cooler than you have a coolant circulation problem - either with the water valve or with a plugged heater core. You can bypass the core and test the valve that way, and see if both hoses become equally hot, and if so try flushing the core. If water trickles out then definitely a new core.

Here is the "OE Exact" or the "OE Quality" stat LE PEW mentioned:

STANT 48278 180 w/Jiggle Pin OE Type Thermostat $10.28 + shipping from rockauto.


Verify and see if you need (about $32 each):


or

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Maybe that valve is messed up. Can you remove the valve and splice the hose back together with a tube and clamps?
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