1998 Camry Heater Control Valve Location - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-11-2013, 06:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation 1998 Camry Heater Control Valve Location

Does anyone know if there is a heater control valve in a 98 camry? Heater hoses seem to go from engine directly into the firewall. The blend door for cold and heat is controlled by a short cable going to the temperature dial.

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Old 12-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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... just looking in the FSM A/C section, but I am not seeing any actual hot water control valve, as in previous models.

There is an air mix control cable ... cool ... hot. Maybe something has come loose on the air mix control cable.

It looks like you have to disassemble the A/C unit trim in order to examine this part.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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air mix control cable? Is that the blend air door that's connected to the cold hot temp knob? If it is, I see it on the drivers side console area. The shaft (door) rotates freely when the cable pulls or pushes it. Is there something else in the HVAC that would affect the temperature that comes out the ducts?

Thanks much!
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Besides the air mix damper cable, which you say seems to be working ok, the FSM lists possible causes of no warm air as low coolant volume, and also heater core ... as in not enough hot water flow through the heater core.

Do you think the heater core is getting hot water to flow through it? Are both hoses in the engine compartment that connect to the heater core warm to the touch, or is one warm and the other not so warm?
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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4th Generation Heater Temperature

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Originally Posted by dc_98_cam View Post
Besides the air mix damper cable, which you say seems to be working ok, the FSM lists possible causes of no warm air as low coolant volume, and also heater core ... as in not enough hot water flow through the heater core.

Do you think the heater core is getting hot water to flow through it? Are both hoses in the engine compartment that connect to the heater core warm to the touch, or is one warm and the other not so warm?

Both heater core hoses are the same hot at engine firewall and also the tubes under the dash. I can touch them maybe 5 seconds when engine is fully at temp, before I have to let them go. Maybe they should be unbeariblly hot? The heater is barely warm (If you call it that), at max temp dial range. I did use a stop leak for a head leak and it sealed it about a year ago, maybe it plugged up the heater core a little? Oven cleaner in the core, let sit and flush? Or would that make the head leak again??

Thanks!
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I wonder if the damper door is actually moving when the control cable causes the shaft to rotate. Maybe the damper door has come loose from the shaft and is not actually moving.

Can you open up the lower end of the heater core ... by removing the lower hose ... and see if it looks like there is any sort of foreign substance ... like the stop leak?

... Suggest that you bump your post here in the forum once or twice. and see if you get any knowledgeable input on it.
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Take the intake air hose off of the throttle body and you should be able to see the heater valve. It's actuated with the temp dial along with the damper.
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks #2!

I don't remember seeing a cable going to that area. Cable from temp was short and went to the damper.

I will take another look tonight!
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't think Gen 4 has the water valve. If both hoses are hot, then hot coolant is going in there. Maybe focus on the damper/duck system. Unless a good part of the core is plugged up, if so the return hose would warm up a lot slower.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I feel it is the heater core a little plugged. I had better heat last night - it was great but not as hot as it should be. Think I will flush the core - can't hurt

I did use a stop leak for a head leak and it sealed it about a year ago, maybe it plugged up the heater core a little? I heard Oven cleaner in the core, let sit and flush? Or would that make the head leak again?? Cold water flushing it may be waste of time...
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh and it doesn't have a heater control valve - Good call! You are right...
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you used stop leak its definately a plugged heater core. You can various ways to flush it out. I dont think it is very difficult to change on these camrys so that is also an option.
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