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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-04-2005, 08:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation 5sfe better than v6 times...dont understand

Okay ..so im looking through the .25 miles drag times and im see'in the stock 2.2 's putting down 15.8 and 16.2/3's, And then i see the v6 models putting down times all the way up to 18.5..and these were al auto's ..so driving skill doesnt matter..I know My Cam is a daily driver but i would to know stock 5sfe times vs real world mod'd 5sfe times

mod'd=
-cai
-lightened crank pulley
-rippmod header
-full header back free flowing exhaust/borla...145-150 at the fly too much for these?

I know this prolly near a newb flame worthy thread..but i'd like to know
how much hp im gonna gain with close to $1,000.00 in mods.
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Old 04-04-2005, 08:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you're getting NO WHERE near 150hp anywhere with those mods. No offense, but cams and headwork (valves/springs/porting) should get you around 145-150whp on top of tuning and your exhaust/intake work.

you're about a grand or 2 away from getting 150whp.

by the way, an engine dyno, AFAIK will measure from the crank, not the flywheel (especially since auto's don't have flywheels).

...and where are you getting that 5S-FE's get better 1/4 mile times than 1MZ/3VZ's?
I've never seen/heard of any of this.

it's possible to make a 5S-FE faster than a 1MZ or 3VZ, but it takes a lot of work.

for what it's worth though, there are people who have gotten around 150whp on a dyno and people who've surpassed it (without a dyno).

another thing, auto's can require skill to launch, if you're stalling up.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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well kwik, are u saying ur 1/4 time is from u timing it on the street or offical drag time? (althou i'm pretty damn close at using a stopwatch! )
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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He said 145-150 at the crank not the wheels. Full exhaust and the RIPP header with intake and a crank pulley should get 15 at the crank easily. A rough formula for HP gained is 1 pound off the crankshaft rotating assembly is 1.5 hp at the crank. An unorthodox pulley is a little over three pounds lighter than stock. That should gain 4.5 hp at the crank, RIPP header is supposed to net like 20 hp when used with full exhaust and a high flow intake. A more realistic gain of even half that added to the pulley gain of about 5 hp (assuming almost no gain from underdriving of accessories) puts it up from 130hp stock to 145 which is within the range he asked about at the crank. The power will come on in the mid range where the 5S FE is at its strongest. There will be more of a kick in high rpms due to lightened rotating assembly at the crank (Flywheel) and gas milage should improved. The engine will sound meaner because of the intake and exhaust as well. The gains for $1000 are not worth it IMO. The 1/4 times will not be much less. Get a bottle, run a 30 shot which is fine if the engine is in good condition and you will lower 1/4 times the same except for $300 instead of $1000. Turbo, supercharge, swap a V6 or 3S-GTE in that is how you make real power in a Camry. You will never run 13's without 300+ hp and a stick. That $1000 could also be spent to buy a manual transmission and convert your car to a stick which wil make it just as fast as those mods will. A standard tranny can be launched harder, will give the driver more control, weighs much less (weight reduction) and has less parasitic drain (frees up 15 hp). Its up to you. Hope this helps.

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Old 04-04-2005, 10:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would say that 150 at the crank is a decent possiblity, but put to the ground, since it's an auto, will still be under or at 100hp

I remember sbc's cam at the dyno- with every bolt-on possible + a 5spd swap, gave him 110 on the dyno...


Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingEye
you're getting NO WHERE near 150hp anywhere with those mods. No offense, but cams and headwork (valves/springs/porting) should get you around 145-150whp on top of tuning and your exhaust/intake work.

and it would take ALOT of internal work to get the 5sfe to 150whp....you'll need to up the compression a pretty extreme amount + lots of careful tuning

keep in mind that many 5sfte only still put down that much power, which is about equivalent to a 1mz or 3vz
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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so what does a stock 5sfe auto baseline at on the dyno?

sorry don't mean to jack...just curious
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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150 is NOT going to happen. You guys understand right now your slushbox 5S-FE's likely putting down anywhere from 80 to 95whp, right?

http://www.jimsnodgrass.com all I gotta say.

5S-FE (mr2 m/t) build up including EMS, cams, ported head and so on. His best dyno was 145whp.

If you think you're getting that to the crank you're mistaken.

Not to be conceited, but I don't know all too many 5S-FE tuners on these 'boards aside from myself who actually follow other 5S-FE builds.
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, Eye8, I'm not saying a 5S-FE can't be built to do 150whp or more. I'm simply saying it's going to take a lot more than bolt-ons.

I'm aiming at 160-180whp out of my 5S-FE (na) and after about a year of research, I'm figuring a clear plan out.

I'm not going to give all the details, but it includes oversized valves, my ported head/milled, new cams, a custom intake manifold, my full exhaust, high-CR pistons with a bore increase, a new fuel pump, an MSD spark plug amplifier, my S-AFC II, a m/t swap with lightened flywheel and likely a new clutch, etc.

my project has reached an easy 2-3k already but it's going to take quite a bit more. I haven't even reached into the bottom end of the engine yet or anything.

My short-term goal is a hopeful 160whp for the summer, I plan to hit the dyno shortly to get a base run taken with just my i/h/e done then once again after my head is on.
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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only an safc? thats a pretty bad choice...but i supposed you got the msd kit too...
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrastrife
only an safc? thats a pretty bad choice...but i supposed you got the msd kit too...
I plan to use the msd kit as well to control ignition timing along with likely a 6al or digital 6.
I don't like standalone's (more specifically, I'd rather be able to tune without a laptop).

and this isn't going to be a boost application so tuning shouldn't be astronomical.
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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sob i read the thread wrong
oh and crawling as for the MSD kit choice.....its a good one from wut im told

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Old 04-04-2005, 11:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingEye
You guys understand right now your slushbox 5S-FE's likely putting down anywhere from 80 to 95whp, right?
Thats wheel HP which is after the parasitic drain of transmission and accessories. Crank HP may be a dumb way to talk power but that is what he asked. Not wheel HP which is easily under 100.

Quote:
5S-FE (mr2 m/t) build up including EMS, cams, ported head and so on. His best dyno was 145whp.
Again that is wheel HP not crank HP. His crank HP must be around 175-200 then to have such a high WHP number. Depending on the loss to the tranny crank HP will always be greater than WHP by a good amount.

Quote:
If you think you're getting that to the crank you're mistaken.
Arent we talking about WHP? Toyota specs say 5S-FE makes 130 crank HP. A grand in bolt ons should be able to net 15 extra crank HP. That doesnt mean its 15 at the wheels it is probably much less. But a nice exhaust, the RIPP header, The lightened pulley, Intake with a good filter should easily squeeze out a noticable amount. Time and time again these parts have been shown to increase or free up HP otherwise people wouldnt use them or pay a grand for them. Even if each mod only added or freed up a few HP it would still meet 15 added HP which is all we need to add to the stock 130 to meet a 145 goal. Of course it would still only make 90-100 crank HP but that isnt what he was asking.
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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'97, you're the only one who failed to realize that I was stating what others have gotten in whp to show how little hp can be acheived without actually doing headwork and so forth.

Actually click the link for the page I showed. These were WHP figures (he documents pretty much from stock to his 145whp dyno) with an m/t na mr2.

Now, it's quite obvious that drivetrain takes it's toll, but there's NO WAY 20hp can be obtained even at the crank from i/h/e, on a forced induction car it may be a stretch (depending on variables like boost and so forth), let alone an na car with poor factory head design, cams with no lift and a very weak intake manifold.
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingEye
'97, you're the only one who failed to realize that I was stating what others have gotten in whp to show how little hp can be acheived without actually doing headwork and so forth.

Actually click the link for the page I showed. These were WHP figures (he documents pretty much from stock to his 145whp dyno) with an m/t na mr2.

Now, it's quite obvious that drivetrain takes it's toll, but there's NO WAY 20hp can be obtained even at the crank from i/h/e, on a forced induction car it may be a stretch (depending on variables like boost and so forth), let alone an na car with poor factory head design, cams with no lift and a very weak intake manifold.
Wow now I feel kinda stupid. Sorry man its been a long day. Makes sense now.
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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geez, glad this isn't true...otherwise I am parking my car and digging out my lawnmower
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