3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
My 98 Camry LE has very low MPG! like 13MPG in town! HELP!
My 98 Camry LE 4 cylinder has the following 3 problems:
1. Low mpg: 13mpg regular driving in town. With today's high gas price, it is killing me, /sigh
2. Automatic transmission gear shifts not smoothly. (timing belt off a notch?) Actually I do not care too much with this..
3. idling. Whenever I do a cold start, the engine runs at 2000rpm for 5 seconds at first. Then when it quickly
goes down to 1600rpm in less than one second, it goes up instantly to 2000rpm. Then the idling speed stays 2000rpm for 2 minutes and after that it goes back to normal (750rpm-1000rpm). Haynes Manual says 750rpm is the right number.
This morning I changed the spark plug, wires, air filter, pcv. And I will try changing fuel filter.
(parts cost $125 incluing tax)
I am not sure if it solves any problem. but at least I know problem #3 is still there.
Any comments? PLEASE!
I believe the engine first tries to work normally (rpm goes down), and then it detects something wrong
and enters into FAIL-SAFE mode. I can hear some vacuum noise at that time. I did check some (not all) hoses and found no problem at all.
Wow...... That's really bad. Hmmmm........I don't know how to help you on this. I thin it's best if you check it with your mechanic. Check your fuel pump and line. Also try using different engine oil. Castrol Synthetic should be good for your car.
and then it detects something wrong, and enters into FAIL-SAFE mode. I can hear some vacuum noise at that time.
If it's a fail-safe you'll get a check engine light. Find out what code it is.
Start out by resetting your ECU. Pull the EFI fuse (box next to battery) out and put it back in, but definately check the ECU for a code. Fix the vacuum leak.
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I also have some problem like pnyperto has. My gas mealage is not good I can get maybe 18mpg and my trans shift ain't smooth also? Oh, I have '95 I4 automatic. I alsoa have vacume leak, I could hear long *siren* noise.
- Could the Castrol Synetic solve my trans problem?
- If the vacume get fix save some gas mealage?
Thanks
__________________ my baby G3N E.S I'll never drive my car like this again...!
firstly, what millage do u have on ur car?
when was the spark plugs changed?
when was ur transmission FLUSHED???
There are a few things that you can do to help with gas millage.
1) Check ur spark plugs, if they have oil residue, lots of carbon, etc. Get some new spark plugs or if they are oily, there might be some problems with the spark plug chamber.
2) Check rotor and cap. Really worth changing cos it's cheap.
3) Check transmission oil. need a flush
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the old spark plugs were all totally black when I replaced them with new ones.
I checked again this afternoon. I could clearly hear the vacuum leak noise, but it might come from the alternator (generator). It is hard to pinpoint the source of the noise with engine running, :-(
The check engine light is always off. Is it possible for the ECU (PCM) to store
a code that does not cause the check engine light to be turned on?
I also cleaned the throttle body/air intake using a cleaner from Autozone.
I also tried to remove the IAC valve connector.. After I removed the IAC connector,
the engine started without going to high RPM. The rpm just stayed at 800 from the very beginning.
Never went up to 2000. (Normal start would be 2000rpm for 5 seconds, and go back to 750rpm)
I hope there is a code stored even the check engine light is off. Is it possible?
A couple of people there got the same LOW MPG as I did. /sigh
I am not an experienced, but not a beginner either.
I changed the oil filter and transmission on my old 91 Camry DX 4 cyl last year before it was totaled
at a red traffic light by a careless guy hitting from behind at high speed.
Regarding the IDLE, my gen3 would idle at 1500RPM for the first 5 seconds in a cold start. it is usual for all cars but ur has 2000RPM, that is a bit outside of the norm.
When did you notice the LOW MILAGE? was it after something that you did? just trying to identify some of the possible problems.
I use regular octane 87 for my gen3 and gen4. Used to use 89 octane (or the one in the middle) for the gen4 till the prices of petrol went through the roof. Never had any problems but I am picky with where I fill up. Only chevron, texaco, Shell and Mobil. No wal-mart, Sam's or other brands. There are some research the proves that they are all the same until the truck unloads the petrol at the gas station but it's better safe than sorry.
as for the noise, check the EGR vacume valve. Mine broke and it gave a whistling or high pitch noise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyverto
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the old spark plugs were all totally black when I replaced them with new ones.
I checked again this afternoon. I could clearly hear the vacuum leak noise, but it might come from the alternator (generator). It is hard to pinpoint the source of the noise with engine running, :-(
The check engine light is always off. Is it possible for the ECU (PCM) to store
a code that does not cause the check engine light to be turned on?
I also cleaned the throttle body/air intake using a cleaner from Autozone.
I also tried to remove the IAC valve connector.. After I removed the IAC connector,
the engine started without going to high RPM. The rpm just stayed at 800 from the very beginning.
Never went up to 2000. (Normal start would be 2000rpm for 5 seconds, and go back to 750rpm)
I hope there is a code stored even the check engine light is off. Is it possible?
Check the coolant temperature sensor. You will need a digital volt/ohmeter and a service manual to do this. There is a generation 3 service manual at the top of this forum in PDF format. The fact that you said that you changed the plugs and they were black, along with your poor fuel mileage, makes me believe your engine is running very rich. Both of these problems could be explained by a defective coolant temperature always telling the ECU that the car is cold. If the ECU always thinks the car is cold, it will constantly run an extremely rich mixture.
Also, a defective thermostat can do the same thing. It can be stuck in the open positon, making the car take way too long to warm up. During this warmup phase, the car runs a very rich mixture. If the coolant temperature sensor checks out Ok, I would replace the thermostat. They are around $10-$15 at the dealer and it is an easy DIY project. Replace the rubber o-ring/gasket too.
Also, check for the slightest bit of brake drag. This can greatly decrease fuel mileage. You have to jack up the car and try to spin each wheel by hand. If one is noticeably harder to spin than the others, you have found the problem.
I bought it just a month ago... So I do not know much about the history of this car. But the seller did include some
repair history, like timing belt, water pump (done at 70000miles), tires, and regular services. The car now has 97000 miles on it.
I don't think the coolant temperature sensor has any problem since the temperature gauge on the panel shows normal behavior. Thermalstat should be ok since they had it changed a couple of years ago. Do EGR valve and modulator affect fuel efficiency negatively? I did not check EGR valve or modulator. I haven't replaced the fuel filter either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skewe
Regarding the IDLE, my gen3 would idle at 1500RPM for the first 5 seconds in a cold start. it is usual for all cars but ur has 2000RPM, that is a bit outside of the norm.
When did you notice the LOW MILAGE? was it after something that you did? just trying to identify some of the possible problems.
I use regular octane 87 for my gen3 and gen4. Used to use 89 octane (or the one in the middle) for the gen4 till the prices of petrol went through the roof. Never had any problems but I am picky with where I fill up. Only chevron, texaco, Shell and Mobil. No wal-mart, Sam's or other brands. There are some research the proves that they are all the same until the truck unloads the petrol at the gas station but it's better safe than sorry.
as for the noise, check the EGR vacume valve. Mine broke and it gave a whistling or high pitch noise.
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