330,422 miles and celebrating... but. Need some advice on trouble shooting smog diagnosis. New plugs, new oil...
Failed smog HC at 15 mph w/52 and at 25 mpg 80 HC.
I had just done a tune up... OBD fail. My fault.
Check engine is on again. Money is limited. Please help. Thanks!
6 cylinder... I'm in Ca... Wires, air filter, cleaned air intake.
Mechanic is dragging his feet Will use code reader asap. Mechanic is uncertain. Read misfire. Changed coils. Acts fuel starved when starting. Hits 1200 rpm then has a sudden drop. Also stalls time to time when shifting into drive or reverse. When given gas, no problem. Once running, no problem. O2 sensor?
I doubt that would be helpful. Do you know what brand of parts the mechanic used? Some shops will only install OEM (Toyota brand) parts which are highly unlikely to be faulty when new. If they used the cheapest they could find, maybe.
When you said "only 1" were you referring to how many coils were replaced?... or how many error codes there were?
Yes, if the code is related to O2 sensors, it will tell which one. To elaborate on that a little... There are two "upstream" sensors that the computer monitors and uses to adjust fueling. They're located in the front and rear exhaust manifolds. The front bank's sensor is in plain sight when you open the hood. Takes about 10 minutes to swap out if it's not stuck; they screw in, so they can be problematic. The rear bank's sensor it more difficult; it's behind the engine up against the firewall. The sensors for your '97 are about $50 on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4622-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5SGA4
Still trouble shooting. My Camry is still throwing P0335 with high hc emissions. Engine is running like a champ.
I've replaced coils, plugs, new clips to coils - soldered new, 2 new cam sensors, new battery new terminal ends, new alternator, cleaned mass airflow system, use a bottle of "Guaranteed to Pass"and now I am a bit frustrated.
If timing belt had skipped time it would be running lousy. I have plenty of horsepower.
Engines looses RPM on start. Drops from 1200, acting fuel starved. Engine stalls when shifting from park to drive, drive to reverse. Engine starts in neutral, drive, reverse. Replaced Neutral Safety switch.
This is the first time you mentioned the error code. P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Since you've replaced the CPS twice, the problem must be something other than the sensor. Look at the teeth on the rotor, are any teeth missing or bent? Inspect the wiring and connector. Make sure the connector terminals are not pushed out or damaged.
It's hard to help when you give conflicting info. First you say "the engine is running like a champ", then:
"Engines looses RPM on start. Drops from 1200, acting fuel starved. Engine stalls when shifting from park to drive, drive to reverse. Engine starts in neutral, drive, reverse. Replaced Neutral Safety switch. "
Engine running problems can be caused by the CPS problem.
Thank you for responding. It runs great except when shifting and at start up. Keeps thowing P0335. Crank sensor has been changed twice. Sorry for not going with protocol and starting a new thread... I'm new here. Frustrated.
Hello btewer man and all others who posted help. Big thanks for all who offered their expertise.
Hooray! The stall while shifting as well as the P0335 code errors are GONE.
The problem was.... a faulty main ground! LUCK!
Tomorrow, with 330,801miles I will go to smog again. Wish me luck!
Lol I recently had a friend of a friend come by with a gen4 that wasn't charging, and windows wouldn't work...turned out to be just that, dirty grounds. Good for you, hope it smogs OK.
WAIT Did it disapear on its own or you reset or disconnected/ clean battery grounds? Are the evap, emissions readiness test complete? They need to be complete before smog.
^+1. To elaborate on that a bit... The ECU runs system checks after power cycling, which is done by either disconnecting the battery, or removing/replacing the EFI fuse. When you take it in for emission testing, one of the things they'll do is connect an OBD II reader and check to see if these system checks have all completed successfully. If not, your car may fail. Some states allow one or two to be incomplete, some allow zero. If I were you, I'd find out what is allowed by your state, and before I went in for testing, I'd check it with a reader to make sure enough of the system checks were completed to pass.
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