CV Axle: Can't get it in past the snap ring (Found out what's wrong: Photo post #16) - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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post #1 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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CV Axle: Can't get it in past the snap ring (Found out what's wrong: Photo post #16)

1996 Camry 2.2 Automatic

I removed the driver's side CV axle, but I can't get the new CV axle all the way into the differential. It has mated with the splines, as I can make the passenger wheel turn, but when I try to pound the axle in and overcome the snap ring, it won't budge. I'm using whale jaw vice grips secured in the groove between the collars and have tried using a 2x4 and also a long metal bar against the grips, close to the center of the CV joint, and I'm using a 2 1/2 pound hammer to pound against the 2x4 or the metal bar and I'm giving it everything I've got and it won't go in past the snap ring. I did put new transmission fluid on the splines and ring to aid the installation.

I've tried several times rotating the shaft, as I've heard this helps, but to no avail. I've tried removing the axle and reinserting and that doesn't make a difference either. When I removed the old axle, yes the snap ring was on it and not stuck inside the differential.

Any ideas on what I can do? Thanks.





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Last edited by John Anthony; 06-20-2017 at 08:48 PM.
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post #2 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 05:38 PM
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get a 5 lb hammer?
you've done everything else it usually takes john. it shouldn't be that hard. mine popped in with moderate force.

i did hold the axle in while hitting the end with the nut threaded on it to keep from damaging the threads. this keeps the cv joints' play and grease from absorbing the impacts.

kinda tricky. might help to have someone hold the axle straight and keep pressure on it while you're hitting the end.
hth
tony
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post #3 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 06:58 PM
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I have a length of pipe with a couple thick-but-pliant rubber caps on it. I put the capped side on the inner cup (on top of the boot), then whack the other end with a 3-lb dead-blow mallet. Not over and over, more like whack, check, whack, check. This prevents the inner boot from tearing on your new axle (ask me how I know). Oh, and of course lubricate the splines with trans fluid.
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post #4 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 09:47 PM
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Double check the ends of the shaft with the snap ring. I have seen threads here about rebuilt driveshafts and sometimes the snap ring position is not the same distance on the splines.
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post #5 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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It's a new, not rebuilt CV axle. I'm hitting it right on the end that has the grooves. This is what is right in front of the differential. The 2x4 or the metal bar goes on the vice grips, which goes on the grooves in between the "ears". I hit the other end of the wood or bar.

I just bought a 4 lb hammer. It was the heaviest one Lowe's had. Will try it tomorrow night.

I'm pretty sure the snap ring is in the same position as the original, but I'll give it another look.





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post #6 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 10:19 PM
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the 4 pounder should do the trick. h/f has the 8, 10 and my favorite, a 12 pounder...good luck john.
tony

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post #7 of 48 Old 06-19-2017, 11:36 PM
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So it won't go in all the way? Pull it out, smear the snap ring groove with petroleum jelly or assembly lube or whatever to hold the snap ring centered in the groove then try again.
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post #8 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 12:11 AM
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I've only ever used the whale jaws for removal, make sure they aren't getting in the way on the install. There is sometimes a "magic angle" where the splines snap in easy, try rotating between pounding sessions, and good luck!
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post #9 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 05:49 AM
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What worked for me was to use the weight and momentum of the suspension and brake rotor assembly to swing the axle into place.

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post #10 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bitter View Post
So it won't go in all the way? Pull it out, smear the snap ring groove with petroleum jelly or assembly lube or whatever to hold the snap ring centered in the groove then try again.

Will try it. That kind of lube won't mess up the chemistry of the transmission fluid? Or is that such a small amount that it won't make a difference?

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Originally Posted by tedmich View Post
I've only ever used the whale jaws for removal, make sure they aren't getting in the way on the install. There is sometimes a "magic angle" where the splines snap in easy, try rotating between pounding sessions, and good luck!

If you don't use the whale jaw grips for installation, then against what do you apply force to overcome the snap ring? Yes, I've tried rotating several times, but it didn't change anything.

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Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
What worked for me was to use the weight and momentum of the suspension and brake rotor assembly to swing the axle into place.

Not sure I'm following what you mean. Do you mean you already have the other end of the CV axle attached into the brake rotor assembly with the large nut tightened and you're pushing the whole assembly as a source of weight/force to get the other end of the axle in past the snap ring?


I'm working all day today, but will try a 4 lb hammer plus these other ideas tonight.





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Last edited by John Anthony; 06-20-2017 at 09:25 AM.
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post #11 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Anthony View Post
Do you mean you already have the other end of the CV axle attached into the brake rotor assembly with the large nut tightened and you're pushing the whole assembly as a source of weight/force to get the other end of the axle in past the snap ring?
Yes. The suspension acts like a pendulum and the weight + momentum of the assembly works better than a hammer. It was a while ago I did it so I think you'll need to get the spline lined up and partially in then grasp the rotor/suspension assembly and give it a good push. Popped right in for me.

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post #12 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Anthony View Post
If you don't use the whale jaw grips for installation, then against what do you apply force to overcome the snap ring?
John, this part is designed to carry a 2 thousand pound metal box full of crap bouncing through pot-holes and around curves. Don't be so afraid of breaking it that you don't get it seated.

I understand your concerns, but get everything lined up, take the old wheel nut off your old CV Joint and screw it on backwards a couple of turns, with the new wheel nut locked up against it. So now you have a striking surface on the end of your new axle and threads are protected, you're line up in the hole in the differential, twist and push by hand to make sure the knuckles are seated, Now Knock the Hell out of it! If everything is straight and lined up, (and you're not a man prone to getting manicures and moisturizer sessions) one good whack to the end of the axle nut should be enough, but if not, twist, push, and bang the snot out of it.

I've had to do this on several of my various CV joints and never had a bit of trouble out of them.

Don't be too friendly with it... it's an axle, not an egg.

Good Luck!

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post #13 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 11:38 AM
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The lil bit of pet jelly won't hurt the fluid at all or the trans. We use silicone grease in the shop cause it's what's handy. Talking about a nickel sized amount vs 6+qts of ATF.
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post #14 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 03:11 PM
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Sometimes it takes me a few tries. Orient the snap ring opening at the bottom and try sliding it in firmly.
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post #15 of 48 Old 06-20-2017, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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The lil bit of pet jelly won't hurt the fluid at all or the trans. We use silicone grease in the shop cause it's what's handy. Talking about a nickel sized amount vs 6+qts of ATF.
OK, I might give it a try along with the other ideas, thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
Sometimes it takes me a few tries. Orient the snap ring opening at the bottom and try sliding it in firmly.

Yeah, I've tried it with the snap ring opening on the bottom several times and also rotating 180 degrees and 90 degrees several times. I was starting to think I should try it with the opening at the top (12 o'clock position).


Just curious.....why is it best to have the opening at the bottom? Like, what is the physics behind that (layman's explanation please)?


I've tried to "slide it in firmly" after engaging the splines, but it just barely engages and won't slide in more than that. Once it's engaged and I can turn the passenger wheel by turning the driver's CV axle, I assume it's lined up and just needs to be pushed in, right?





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