This is how the connector should look like to remove it from the metal harness


Now remove the other connectors that was attached to the above clip



Overview shot so far. disconnect the fuel rail lines. Clips on mines were all broken, so they just slide off.


Remove Radiator hose (upper)



Now carefully move the harness. You will hear come cracking noises lol



I fold it this side.



82121-3T040





Now disconnect the vacuum hose going to the EGR thingy. Also remove the connector (electronic) as seen below. Label with tape



Disconnect this hose



Remove other vacuum hoses that are attached via clips. Label where the clips should be attached to the hose as seen below



Another view of the lables



Start removing the COPs



Another shot of the removal process



All of the COP removed. Start removing the valve cover bolts




Once all the bolts are remove, lift away!



Its rather clean for 228K.








I removed this connector in front to prevent me from hitting it when re-applying the cover. It had oil in here??



You can see the half moons or semi circles. To them out, you'll need to remove the associated items next to it. Picture below Removing a bolt holding the bracket.



Take note of the vacuum lines.



Bracket that was holding it in place. Clean it up!




The half moons / semi circles. I used this hose removal tool to pop them off. I don't know how anyone does it with pliers. It's too tight in there! I just nudge it in place and pull...it will fly. There's gotta be an easier way as I couldn't do the rear! ..



Also removed this cap and resealed.



The bolts are both same size



Refer to the FSM on where to put the sealant. I can't post a pic of it, but the torque spec for these bolts are 12 ft-lb. I resealed the cap per FSM. You can sort of see were I put the sealant.


With the valve cover removed, lets do the seals.





I was able to bend back some of the tabs...





Using my hose removal, I remove the seals. This can sometimes score up the inside of where the seal goes but I have not had one that seem to leak...(or that I know of. There are other methods on TN though to use, so try that instead.





Once you get the new seal in, use either a 30/32mm socket and a rubber mallet. Don't be like me a try use something smaller. I tore the lip on two of the three seals. Thankfully it's on the front and I used some toyota RTV ...hope it doesn't leak.


After *somehow* removing the semi-circles, reseal them as so. I been using Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 and this is awesome!


Once you put the sem-circle back in, align it flat with the valve cover edge. Clean the edges, etc, reinstall the valve cover.



For the valve cover, I use two washers. It's cheaper to buy this online...Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAG22W6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Next, spark plugsAnother DIY
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...st-gen-solara-1999-2003/411015-fyi-gen-4-camry-1mz-fe-v6-spark-plugs-wires.html


This is what I used PK20TR11. This is used on COP Waste Systems on these 1997-2001 1MZFE and the Avalon 1995-1999.


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 4



Cylinder 6



Torque spark plugs to right spec. I put a little anti-seize on them as well. 13ft lbs

 

Top shot of the vacuum lines on the metal rack.




Remove the two 10mm bolts holding it down




Lift away. Make sure no vacuum lines are still attached. If they are, make sure to twist then disconnect...label of course



There was a line attached to the lower intake (?) part. Remove and label the vacuum lines.



Another vacuum line was going to this black box underneath the stock air intake near the fuel filter. Just disconnect and label.




vacuum lines removed



Shot of the vacuum lines removed



Next, disconnect associated connections going to the throttle body.





This is a clip and must be removed from the throttle body.




Disconnect the vacuum line (brake booster)



I so happen to find a crack. Might be part of my semi high LTFT. I'll try find a replacement in the junkyard as the hose does bend a certain way making an cut and fit one not as nice.



This hose attaches to a clip on the firewall.



Disconnect the DIAG port. It is held by a clip



Disconnect the two grounds.



Label label!!



PCV valve time. Remove this. Yours may not be able to remove it just now or it may snap. When removing the Intake manifold body, always assume the PCV valve will break along with the grommet and hose. I consider these three parts consumables.



Disconnect the EGR valve



A shot from the rear.



The two 10mm nuts. It's a bit of a tight squeeze but doable from above.






Remove the remaining 10mm nuts on the front side. Don't lose them. I'd re-thread them back to the Intake manifold body after you remove the valve.



Once all the nuts are remove, wiggle it out. You will have to adjust the throttle body to remove the EGR valve.





Make sure the gaskets are in place. You probably can re-use them but I replaced them all this time (later pics)



Remove the back bracket holding the intake manifold and this back support






Disconnected these vacuum lines



Next, disconnect the two coolant by-pass that goes into the throttle body.









Picture of the sequence of installing. I just reverse for the removal. Start off by removing each nut a certain amount (not completely) and then removing them.

 

A few shots on the nuts and torx that needs to be removed. Left side near rad cap


Right side by transmission



The four nuts/torx removed.



As I was removing it...I tug on something. Another grounding strap!!



Remove, label. Thread the nut back into the hole on the intake manifold body



Put tape...a lot so you don't forget.



Intake Manifold body finally removed.



A shot of the engine with the intake manifold body removed.



Lets start removing the wiring harness above the timing belt cover. It is held by these clips.




Lets also remove the old spark plug wires.




Remove this support bracket to the radiator cap housing.




Disconnect the grounding cable going to the radiator cap housing.



And reservoir bottle hose.



Remove these two connectors. these has a tendency of being very brittle, so be careful. If it completely breaks, you can just connect them straight with just the metal pin. I had to do that to my friends 1995 V6. it's been so far OK.



As noted before, all my clips are broken. Fuel rails as well. Push the clip in and slowly jiggle them off.



Note the other clips holding the wiring harness.





On the rear side where the wiring harness goes above the rear valve cover, remove this nut.



Another nut holding the harness above the transmission. NOT PICTURED there is another nut near the thermostat housing holding the harness down. Removing this will give you extra wiggle room when removing and installing the rear valve cover.



You probably can disconnect the heater hoses.



Disconnect the knock sensor harness




Nut removed on the rear valve cover holding the harness



Use tape to hold up the harness from the valve cover.

 

Another shot where of the place I taped



Also not a bad time to do the PCV grommet. This one is a year or two old. I consider this part more of a yearly thing since if they are left in for more than a few years, they will get very hard and break apart when removed along with the PCV valve.



Remove the valve cover bolts on the rear and front. This one was already loose! No wonder I was leaking a good amount of oil! Every 1MZFE engine that is leaking pretty good is usually the bolts on the rear cover are finger loose, more so this one in particular. That and the valve cover gasket is harden due to age.



Once all bolts are loose, try life the cover off.



I was having some issues with space on the other side where the EGR valve is.



I couldn't clear it.



After much moving it around, I removed the valve cover. Rear bank was pretty clean.




I couldn't remove the semi circles. I let them in place.



Resealed the front cap.






I've been using Toyota FIPG. It's awesome. Put this is the areas noted in the FSM.



Reinstalling the valve cover, I had to remove the EGR valve. I couldn't get it on right with it in place.



Add the washers (2x) per bolt. Torque to spec.



EGR pipe removed.



Next, I did spark plugs. Cylinder 1



Cylinder 3



Cylinder 5



I also used silicone tape to fix the harness on the rear.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape...ar/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512958359&sr=8-3&keywords=extreme+tape



Reattached the harness back to the valve cover.



Next. thermostat.



Disconnected these.




Remove radiator hose



Remove this clip



The thermostat housing has 3 10mm nuts.






It looks pretty nasty...yuck!




16325-62010 is for the gasket. thermostat 1MZ is 90916-A3003



OEM and aftermarket...there is huge difference in quality. I would always recommend OEM on this part.




Thermostat needs to be in a certain position. Jiggling valve needs to be align +/- 5 degrees from that top left stud.




Reattach all connectors.






Now, let's remove the lower intake. Some of these bolts are nuts. See below. The washer WILL FALL if you don't grab them while removing them.





When removing the nuts/bolts, put tape so you know which one goes where.

 

With all the nuts and bolts remove, remove the lower intake. Keep in mind the fuel line is still attached, so it will be fine to flex. Just don't kink it.


Labeled all the bolts/nuts per manual.



Raise it up



So the reason why looks nasty was my upper radiator hose has been leaking./ Not sure about all that oil though..



B ypass hose shot.



Heater hoses still connected (lower one)



You can see the fuel injectors. That seems to be carbon built up on some.





Tape up all intake porst incase something falls into them.




I remove the radiator intake neck first. Two nuts and bolts.




They are different sizes, so label and keep note on which one is where.





I am also re-replacing the bypass hose. I might as well. I could had reused the old one, but it had about 3 years on it.



Knock sensors are here.



Used an adjustable wrench to remove them.




Two used knock sensors that came from a 1MZFE solara/Avalon.



Be VERY careful. I used the socket trick, but I ended up cracking TWO knock sensor connector. One I used JB weld to 'fix' it. I would put the socket in first and then put your torque wrench. It won't 'snap' into place the socket to the wrench due to the connector on the knock sensor, but it should enough to get it torque down.



Reassemble time. Clean all surfaces.



3yr by-pass hose VS new.



All installed with new Knock sensor harness and used knock sensors.






Reinstall the bolts per service manual.

 

Installed the lower intake and torqued properly. If it is not torque properly OR surface is not decently clean, you will usually leak coolant


Install the EGR pipe



Time to do the fuel injector. When I pop this cover on the fuel rail, the fuel pulsation damper had this screw loose...Uhhh...There was no fuel in here though. I simply installed the screw. Not sure if this has any negative effects.
A good video on how to replace it.

I removed the front rail bolt first. There are two metal washers..




Remove the bolts holding the rail





Just wiggle and slowly remove them out.



See that carbon on the tip of the fuel injector?




New O-rings




To remove the fuel injector from the rail, just gently wiggle them until they 'pop' out the rail.



Replacing the orings were straight foward. Only the larger circle one that the fuel rail sits on was really hard. I had to use pliers to wiggle them off each injector.




Front injectors removed, paper towels in the fuel injector holes



For the rear, I couldn't remove the damper, so I just remove the support bracket holding the rail instead.

*IMageshack had a random picture of some dude here. Checked my account anndi t was ok.. I need to re-upload DSC04290.JPG




Pull up



You may have fuel leaking out from the loose rail on the front bank side.




Don't misplace these.




Injector shot.




Replacced rear bank, installed forward bank. I used seafoam to coat the o-rings. Gently put them on and 'pop' them into place. Then, reinstall the rail. Make sure you can turn the injector smoothly before reinstalling the fuel rail bolts. Point injectors facing the position they were initially before torque to spec.



Replacecd the by-pass hose for the throttle body.


16267-20010 and 16264-20010




Throttle body time



Remove the 4 nuts/bolt on the throttle body.

 

Throttle body removed from the intake manifold







Small kind cleaning



Use a VESSEL JIS Screw driver. You WILL STRIP IT with a philips screw driver.






Removed the housing. Clean it time!







Gasket 22215-20010







Finally decided to replace these hoses (not sure why I didn't earlier?)








New PCV Valve




Time to install the new spark plug wire set.



19037-20011




Now the process of reconnecting everything prior to the upper intake manifold is installed.





















Also did the upper and lower radiator hoses. These aftermarket clamps and hoses were terrible! Go OEM if possible. If not, OEM on the clamps. These clamps are ugh.




Factory clamps are 90467-37005




All reassembled and good to go! check coolant and for any leaks!

 

wow kingdom, if this is just 'going over the brief stuff, i don't think TN has enough bandwidth for all the pics of a full on DIY, haha. great write up. keep 'em coming.
tony

 

lol.

I'm having issues with imageshack. I gotta keep reloading my main album to get the thumbnail to show up so I know what the heck I'm selecting. Anyone else having this issue? Been trying from at work and home with the same issue.

Also, trying to view individual pictures won't load unless I keep randomly refreshing.

It's been a frustrating year with PB and now issues with image shack.

EDIT: I'm going to add in captions later. I gotta run out for a while.

 

BTW, be nice to link the history: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-camry-3rd-4th-gen-1992-1996-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1450442-kingdom934-s-1998-camry-le-v6-anniversary-edition.html Maybe link up all these threads like the steering wheel, etc.

So had to dig all the way back in again because of the leak? That was in the Spring this year? Looks like there's coolant seepage at the valley cover. Would have been nice to reseal that.

Look at that fender cover. Whoa, worm-gear radiator hose clamps and aftermarket thermostat!

 

Hey all, I added most of my comments. I hope everything looks decent enough. Again, it's not a full DIY but just a brief snap shot on how much work is required to do this. It can be done with a decent tool box of tools and a garage. Total time I spent must had been around 20hr I believe over the course of 3 days.




I'll update that original thread about this car in a bit.

Yep. The radiator hose and worm clamps were terrible....don't ever use those worm clamps. I hate it. OEM is best for this. The thread earlier this year was for my friend 1995 V6. Yea, I seem to tear down the V6's quite often. Getting better at it, but it's just a lot of labor making sure you label everything as there is a lot of stuff going on for the 1MZ.

All that pink stuff is caused from the upper radiator hose. It has been leaking for the last year or so. It will drip down into the valley. The valley cover seems to be okay otherwise as far as I know.

I am surprised that you haven't got all the pieces from JY to rebuild factory intake air box. That mushroom looks low class.

It has crossed my mind. I might consider that.

You are an amazing human being..!!!

Amazing DIY thread, your penis is YUUUUUUGE..!!!!

HJahahahah Thank you!

 

I am surprised that you haven't got all the pieces from JY to rebuild factory intake air box. That mushroom looks low class.

 

You are an amazing human being..!!!

Amazing DIY thread, your penis is YUUUUUUGE..!!!!

 

Wow, what a thorough job. Better you than me! She was very clean under the valve covers. What's your secret?

 

I've only had the car for about the last 20K, but previous owner has a log book which I'm still continuing. Every_Single_Work...is noted. All papers for the car, including original window sticker and receipt of purchase of the car. I've since made a folder for all the maintenance and a excel sheet (I need to update) with the work done.

The car has had synthetic oil from time of purchase and OCI were very reasonable. Besides that, the first owner really loved the car, so it really showed.

This should be sticky. Very good thread. What gasket did you use for valve cover? I used blue felpro. Yours is orange.

It threw me off. The one that was on the car were orange. The one I bought were Felpro, but they were orange too. Maybe VVTi models are blue and the non-vvti ones are orange? But I could had sworn my friends 1995 V6 wasn't orange....

possible for parts breakdown and cost too?

Excellent ideal. Will do. I'll work on it in a few days.

I don't see any pics, or am I going crazy? :smile:

Added this morning.

I see 'em fine.

Ok interesting. Looks like my company is blocking access to the imagizer.imageshack.us site. Access to imageshack.com is ok.

I hope this doesn't happen to me at work haha!

 

This should be sticky. Very good thread. What gasket did you use for valve cover? I used blue felpro. Yours is orange.

 

This should be sticky.

Added this morning.

I don't see any pics, or am I going crazy? :smile:

I see 'em fine.

 

possible for parts breakdown and cost too?

 

I don't see any pics, or am I going crazy? :smile:

 

Nice job, as usual.

This may be obvious, but it wasn't to me: if the vacuum hose routing diagram is grimy, don't use brake parts cleaner to wash it up...it'll take the ink off.

Also, your arm in this pic: http://imageshack.com/i/pnV7IPVHj

...looks shopped.

 

LOL about my arm.

Yea, I learned that the hard way with rubbing alcohol..kind of the same thing as brake cleaner (I think?). I used this to sometime degrease things. Me being dumb, I used straight rubbing alcohol on HAVC buttons...lets say there was nothing left afterward. I had to fetch another button cap.

 

Here's the breakdown of parts.

As a disclaimer, I do not garentee these part numbers will work for your Camry and year. These fit a J-Vin Camry 1998 LE V6 production date 12/97. It may not fit other years and location built models. Considering they are mostly hoses and general '1mz' parts, they should in theory work. PROCEED at your OWN risk. PRICES are SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

For anywork, I'd recommend Toyota FIPG. IMO i've used Ultra black before, but this stuff seems better.
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...lsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-sealer-0029500103/?c=aT04NDE0MjAyNSZyPWxheWVyXzE=
00295-00103 $11.33


Idle Air Control Valve Gasket 22215-20010
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-gasket-2221520010
22215-20010 $3.58

Throttle Body Gasket (metal)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-gasket-2227120010
22271-20010 $5.19

Coolant Bypass hose (goes to throttle-body)

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...gs.com/oem-parts/toyota-by-pass-hose-1626420010/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzIy
16264-20010 (top looking one #19 ) $5.21
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...gs.com/oem-parts/toyota-by-pass-hose-1626720010/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzIz
16267-20010 (bottom looking one #20) $11.72

Top radiator Hose
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...ings.com/oem-parts/toyota-upper-hose-1657120020/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzEy
16571-20020 (Upper #9) $19.96


Lower radiator Hose
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...ings.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-hose-1657220020/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzEz
16572-20020 (Lower #10) $24.02

Heater Hoses (Probably could go aftermarket as this isn't too much of a difficult job. I didn't replace mines, but you could if your down there. Mines does show some wear though.)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-hose-water-8724533210
87245-33210 - $48.45

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-hose-water-8724533220
87245-33220 - $47.40

Thermostat (Highly recommend going OEM)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...ings.com/oem-parts/toyota-thermostat-90916a3003/?c=aT04NDM2MDg1NSZyPWxheWVyXzIz
90916-A3003 $16.61

Thermostat Gasket
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...m/oem-parts/toyota-thermostat-gasket-1632562010/?c=aT04NTIxMDcwNSZyPWxheWVyXzE5
16325-62010 $4.45

Coolant By-pass hose (underneath intake; next to knock sensor. From my experience, these tend to fail after 15 years mark or higher 200K+. Anything after that is borrowed time). JUST GET THIS HOSE, AVOID CUT TO FIT ONES.
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...gs.com/oem-parts/toyota-by-pass-hose-1626120010/?c=aT04NTIxMDcwNSZyPWxheWVyXzE1
16261-20010 $13.60

PCV Valve Gromment (Recommend replacing this every few years so it doesn't get hard)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-grommet-9048018001
90480-18001 $3.90

PCV Valve (I've used a bunch of OE aftermarket PCv valve. Toyota one has a more solid feel for sure)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-pcv-valve-1220420010
12204-20010 $7.02


Spark plug wire set w/ all attachments and clips...etc (Best to go OEM, but the wires on these are not too difficult to change...ish. You could get the wires for just a tad cheaper, but you would have to transplant all the clips etc. Last I check on RA, a decent set is about $30 bucks. Decide if you want to OEM or buy things separate and swap them over.) These are ONLY FOR THE 1MZFE with the waste spark systems! which is for the 96 V6- 01 V6 Camry (and similar Avalon years)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...rings.com/oem-parts/toyota-cable-set-1903720011/?c=aT04NTEzMTQ1NSZyPWxheWVyXzQ=
19037-20011 $50.93

EGR Valve Gasket (You'll need a few. I believe aftermarket is fine for this part as well)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...om/oem-parts/toyota-egr-valve-gasket-2562720010/?c=aT04NTEzMjc1NSZyPWxheWVyXzI=
25627-20010 $1.16


Spark Plugs DENSO 3253 PK20TR11
RockAuto: 6x $5.38 (This is ONLY for the spark waste system)

Fuel Injector O-Rings (complete) BECK/ARNLEY 1580893
This comes with all 4 o-rings to service each injectors. In my case, I suspect I could use get my injectors refurnished eventually. These ones were made in Japan. No question on the Quality of the O-rings.
RockAuto: 6x $2.83

 

Here's the breakdown of parts.



For anywork, I'd recommend Toyota FIPG. IMO i've used Ultra black before, but this stuff seems better.
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-sealer-0029500103/?c=aT04NDE0MjAyNSZyPWxheWVyXzE=
00295-00103 $11.33


Idle Air Control Valve Gasket 22215-20010
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-gasket-2221520010
22215-20010 $3.58

Throttle Body Gasket (metal)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-gasket-2227120010
22271-20010 $5.19

Coolant Bypass hose (goes to throttle-body)

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...gs.com/oem-parts/toyota-by-pass-hose-1626420010/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzIy
16264-20010 (top looking one #19 ) $5.21
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...gs.com/oem-parts/toyota-by-pass-hose-1626720010/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzIz
16267-20010 (bottom looking one #20) $11.72

Top radiator Hose
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...ings.com/oem-parts/toyota-upper-hose-1657120020/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzEy
16571-20020 (Upper #9) $19.96


Lower radiator Hose
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...ings.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-hose-1657220020/?c=aT04NTEzMDY1NSZyPWxheWVyXzEz
16572-20020 (Lower #10) $24.02

Heater Hoses (Probably could go aftermarket as this isn't too much of a difficult job. I didn't replace mines, but you could if your down there. Mines does show some wear though.)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-hose-water-8724533210
87245-33210 - $48.45

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-hose-water-8724533220
87245-33220 - $47.40

Thermostat (Highly recommend going OEM)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...ings.com/oem-parts/toyota-thermostat-90916a3003/?c=aT04NDM2MDg1NSZyPWxheWVyXzIz
90916-A3003 $16.61

Thermostat Gasket
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...m/oem-parts/toyota-thermostat-gasket-1632562010/?c=aT04NTIxMDcwNSZyPWxheWVyXzE5
16325-62010 $4.45

Coolant By-pass hose (underneath intake; next to knock sensor. From my experience, these tend to fail after 15 years mark or higher 200K+. Anything after that is borrowed time). JUST GET THIS HOSE, AVOID CUT TO FIT ONES.
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...gs.com/oem-parts/toyota-by-pass-hose-1626120010/?c=aT04NTIxMDcwNSZyPWxheWVyXzE1
16261-20010 $13.60

PCV Valve Gromment (Recommend replacing this every few years so it doesn't get hard)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-grommet-9048018001
90480-18001 $3.90

PCV Valve (I've used a bunch of OE aftermarket PCv valve. Toyota one has a more solid feel for sure)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-pcv-valve-1220420010
12204-20010 $7.02


Spark plug wire set w/ all attachments and clips...etc (Best to go OEM, but the wires on these are not too difficult to change...ish. You could get the wires for just a tad cheaper, but you would have to transplant all the clips etc. Last I check on RA, a decent set is about $30 bucks. Decide if you want to OEM or buy things separate and swap them over.) These are ONLY FOR THE 1MZFE with the waste spark systems! which is for the 96 V6- 01 V6 Camry (and similar Avalon years)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-cable-set-1903720011/?c=aT04NTEzMTQ1NSZyPWxheWVyXzQ=
19037-20011 $50.93

EGR Valve Gasket (You'll need a few. I believe aftermarket is fine for this part as well)
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-egr-valve-gasket-2562720010/?c=aT04NTEzMjc1NSZyPWxheWVyXzI=
25627-20010 $1.16


Spark Plugs DENSO 3253 PK20TR11
RockAuto: 6x $5.38 (This is ONLY for the spark waste system)

Fuel Injector O-Rings (complete) BECK/ARNLEY 1580893
This comes with all 4 o-rings to service each injectors. In my case, I suspect I could use get my injectors refurnished eventually. These ones were made in Japan. No question on the Quality of the O-rings.
RockAuto: 6x $2.83

I have to ask if you don’t mind. How did you get those parts for so cheap? I look up the parts online with their web sight thinking I’d save some money over what my local dealer is charging and the prices come up the same as what my dealer is charging for the front cam and crank seals as well as the T-stat and gasket.

 

Great job, parts list is very useful. My electrical connectors were brittle and broken as well, I did find the correct part numbers. fuel injector connectors (6)# 90980-11153. Connector near bottom fuel rail (1) 90980-11156 and the last ones at top rail (2) 90980-11149.
What is the aftermarket air intake on your engine? The aftermarket ones I've seen are much shorter.
Thanks
Mike

 

Nice writeup....I did just the front and back cam covers a few years back....lots of work just to get the back cam cover off.

 

Thank you kingdom!!!!! I will need this in the future. Did you try looking into gates radiator hoses? The toyota seem expensive.

 

Sorry for the late reply.

Yes, I have. Not sure if it's just me, but all the Gate hoses (radiator) tends to get this white powder as it is being used and I can't remove that tape they put their product UPC and label without it looking all messy. I know....cosmetic. For what it is worth, my friends has used gates top and lower radiator hose without issues. For me, I just like the OEM look and the texture. Looking closely, the OEM toyota hose and the Gates one has a different texture to it, OEM being better.

 

Have to agree

That was an incredible DIY thread. I have one question though as I was a bit stupid and tossed my tube of FIPG. Could you please give me the part number for it.

For some reason when I go to the dealer they say we dont have eh hmm FIPG.

 

That was an incredible DIY thread. I have one question though as I was a bit stupid and tossed my tube of FIPG. Could you please give me the part number for it.

For some reason when I go to the dealer they say we dont have eh hmm FIPG.

Oopp forgot that P/N! I also edited the previous post too.

Toyota FIPG
SEALER - TOYOTA (00295-00103)
$11.33
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...lsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-sealer-0029500103/?c=aT04NDE0MjAyNSZyPWxheWVyXzE=

 

Thanks for that. I cant wait to show them exactly what it says on the package. F I P G !!

 

Awesome write up Kingdom thank you for taking the time to document with pictures, part numbers and clear description of your work. Thank you.

 

Hi, I’ll be replacing the bypass hose soon on my 1MZFE camry and wanted to know the part numbers for those 2 gaskets (the ones with blue circles).

thanks in advance!

 

Here you go: (the intake manifold x cylinder head gasket, you'll need both No.1 and No. 2)

Toyota Camry Intake Manifold Gasket

Shop wholesale-priced OEM Toyota Camry Intake Manifold Gaskets at ToyotaPartsDeal.com. All fit 1983-2024 Toyota Camry and more.

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