Knock Sensor Diagnosis 1996 1MZ-FE - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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post #1 of 3 Old 07-15-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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3rd Generation Knock Sensor Diagnosis 1996 1MZ-FE

So I've got a 96 camry v6 1mz-fe and the computer is telling me the knock sensor on bank 2 is bad but to get to the sensor means removing the intake manifold and a dozen other things i don't want to move so i hunted down the best walk-throughs i could find but they were for a previous model of the engine and don't match up. Basically i think i have found the connector for the sensors but if im correct then the resistance tests show bank 2 failing. So i'm hoping that my lack of knowledge has lead me to test the wrong connector. I have included two pics, one of the genereal area where i found the connector and a second of the connector itsefl (because its four in a line and all the pics i find online are four in a square -2x2). In all the walk throughs online they show the connection being up front by the tranny fluid intake but i found this one attached directly to the intake acrost from the throttle controlls. Im hoping somone with knowledge of the way an engine in a 1996 Camry V6 LE 1MZ-FE is arranged can confirm or deny my finding that this connector is where i would test the lines to my knock sensor. Any help would be appreciated and thanks for reading my post.

Last edited by ubersnoofer; 07-15-2013 at 07:27 PM. Reason: clarity
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post #2 of 3 Old 07-15-2013, 11:26 PM
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That's the TPS - Throttle Position Sensor.

I wasn't sure myself where that cable is on the 1MZ, so I went out to my '96 Avalon to look for it. Here's where the cable exits out from under the intake manifold. I drew a red line on the cable. Follow that to the connector, shown in the next pic.

Here's where the connector is, boxed in red. Man, it's buried!

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post #3 of 3 Old 07-19-2013, 04:22 PM
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having replaced knock sensors on different 1mzfe's 3 times now, i gave up on taking apart the entire intake and draining the coolant just for that on my own car. instead, i relocated the sensor and spliced the wires together to just use one sensor instead of two.

i got 2 sensors (in case one was bad, or to have a spare) and the short harness off a junkyard car. i split the harness, removed the plastic tubing that protects it, then cut off one of the leads about an inch from the 2x2 connector. there, i spliced the shields and signal wires together, then at the other end, i cut off the apparent 1-pin connector, and spliced on the rest of the wire that i'd cut off, to essentially double the length of the harness. keep in mind that this is COAXIAL wire - just like cable TV wire, but much smaller. so you can't simply cut/strip/crimp to extend this wire. you need to handle the outer shield and inner conductor independently and keep them insulated from each other. then i put the plastic wrap back on, and added a little more that i had so the whole thing was covered in the plastic shield.

i unplugged the existing knock sensor harness (pictured above) and plugged in my new harness, and draped it straight forward to the front of the engine, then a little left just below and in front of the oil filler cap. on my 98 there are two large empty threaded holes there (some may actually have a hanger bolted there, which is easily removed). i drilled and tapped one of these and screwed in my knock sensor, plugged in my new harness, then zip-tied the slack in the harness to keep it out of the way.

pull the EFI fuse for 30 seconds to clear the codes, and as long as you did good quality work on your harness extension, and your knock sensor is good, you're golden. now if it ever fails again, it's a 5 minute job to change. even with the harness work this still only took me 30 minutes. the hardest part was unplugging the old harness!
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