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Axle Threads Slightly Distorted at end, can I fix?

23K views 63 replies 11 participants last post by  hardtopte72 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I just replaced the front passenger side wheel bearing on 2004 Camry V6 XLE and in the process of hitting the half axel with axel nut on to bottom it out (to push the splines through to remove the steering knuckle which was really stuck) I kind of distorted the axel threads at the end so I at the end of the project I wasn't able to start the axel nut back on straight. The nut was really messed up so I ran to a Toyota dealership and bought a new axel nut which didn't work right off the bat so I had to use an angle grinder on the axel to slightly taper the end of the so the new nut would go on. I very slightly taper down one or two threads then was lucky enough to get the nut started and got it back together. The nut was very hard to turn the whole way back on even after passing the starting threads of the axel which I thought was odd. Using a breaker bar the whole way to tighten down all the way took a lot of strength to do. At the end the I was light this has to be the last time I replace this bearing because I don't think I will be able to get he axel nut on and off again with out buying a new half axel.

Now call me really lucky and fast forward a week later when getting home off the train that someone at the train station while pulling into a spot that morning at a really fast, and at a really hard angle, directly hit my passenger side wheel (I know because it is completely scraped up) and re broke the wheel bearing again, and maybe more like the wheel hub but I can't tell yet because I didn't take the wheel off yet. All I know is with the car jacked up I can shake the wheel back and forth, there is like a half inch of play back and forth with pushing and pulling on the wheel.

Anyway my question is, is there a way to fix the threads on the half axel or am I screwed and have to buy a whole new axel? The below pictures are before I angle grinded to taper the edge done 1-2 threads in from edge. I will buy a new axel nut again to help the situation but I am really nervous to remove and put the axel nut back on.

(P.S. I need to bite the bullet and invest in a pneumatic air tool system!)



IMG_1979 by Rr Reo, on Flickr
 
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#8 · (Edited)
Yes I know but the nut doesn't spin with easy over the threads due to my stupidity, I know I need to torque it to 217lbs and I have a torque wrench to measure it but I just messed up the threads this time so it will be hard to know when I fully seated the axel to final torque it to 217.

4 years ago I did the driver side front bearing with no issues at all but the splines were so stuck on this side all the beating to push it through did a number on the axel threads.:argh:

I was thinking of renting this thread restorer tool from autozone but if you look at my pictures I may have expanded the diameter of the axel threads, if you look at the above view where there is a cut out in the treads parallel to the axel is looks like it gets bigger towards the outside of the car and slimmer towards in the engine of the car.

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/thread-restorer-set/oem-thread-restorer-set/391372_0_0/
 
#9 ·
Buy a new/used/rebuilt axle and quit worrying about it. Don't make that mistake again.

If you have to hammer the axle out, put the nut back on and hit the nut to get axle movement started, or use a punch on the center. Spraying the area with a good penetrating oil should also reduce the amount of sledge hammering needed to push that axle out of the way.

You might be able to clean it up with a thread chasing die. Maybe m22 x 1.5 but verify by checking the dimensions of available replacement axle/spindle nuts from your local auto part stores. Looks to me that you might want to grind/cut some of the 'warpness out'. Best to do it with the nut all the way on so that it can help repair area when you remove it. Those 1st bunch of threads aren't needed.


https://store.snapon.com/Spindle-Rethreading-Set-M22-x-1-5-Spindle-Rethreading-Die-P652007.aspx
http://www.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products/QWTC1122-%2d-M22-x-1.5-Thread-Chaser,-E%2dType.html
 
#10 · (Edited)
Yeah I'm an idiot for f'ing it up but I had the nut on while beating it and still messed up the axel. It was really stuck. I have a 240lbs electric impact wrench on the way that may help me but who knows I probably still have some surgery to do. I got two more brand new nuts to hopefully run over he axel to striaghten out the axel threads. I'll be doing it on Friday.
 
#11 ·
The material of the nut is usually softer than the bolt/stud/axle. So new nuts might not help, but as mentioned a thread file or if the end mushroomed, a chaser die should work. Proper torque is important for the longevity of the wheel bearing. So I'd properly restore the threads and torque the axle nut on correctly. Some parts stores have free loaner torque wrenches but their accuracy is questionable.

I'd keep the original axle and just re-boot it as needed. They're much better than rebuilts or aftermarket new axles.

Another alternative is to put on a new aftermarket axle and then work on the OEM one when you have time.
 
#14 ·
HELP 2004 Toyota Camry Wheel Bearing, Hub, Spindle, Axel Problem

I need some help here. I had a brand new Timken bearing pressed in but the shop said I needed a new wheel hub also so they pressed in a new Dorman 930-400 wheel hub but there is still a ton of play in the wheel. Please look at the video and help me pinpoint what the problem is. From behind the wheel under the car in the video you can see the axel has a ton of play in in the steering knuckle surrounding the bearing. What else could be the problem here if the bearing and wheel hub are brand new but still have a ton of side to side wheel movement and the axel nut is definitely tightened all the way down.

I'd really appreciate any help because I've lost all patience with this. I've wasted so much time, money and energy on this stupid situation. I'm going back to the press shop tomorrow to make sure they pressed everything correctly.

P.S. I did not see a spring ring and I seem to remember seeing one when I did the driver side 3 years ago.

 
#16 ·
What are you talking about? Did you even read or watch the video in my last post? The threads are not the problem anymore I fixed that, the axel nut goes on no problem now. My problem is that I have a brand new bearing and brand new whee hub with a wheel that still wobbles like crazy. Please someone watch the video (make it full screen to see it better) to help me diagnose the problem.

P.S. Can a moderator delete his post so it doesn't waste server space? Thanks.
 
#18 ·
I still haven't been able to fix this issue, the car has just been sitting on stands for weeks, does anyone have any opinons on what the issue in the below video could be even with a brand new bearing and brand new wheel hub pressed into the new bearing?? Thank you.

 
#21 ·
Your problem most likely lies with the hub and bearing. 2004 is the cut off year for when the Camry went from the smaller Gen 3/4 bearing to the large Gen 5.5/6 bearing. You PROBABLY have a small hub and bearing in your knuckle.

You need the correct hub and bearing. You need to verify which 2004 side of the hub parts your car is. If you give me your VIN#, I can verify for you. Part numbers are here:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...y-front-wheel-bearing-replacement-w-pics.html

You can also see forum member iconman dealt with a similar problem:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...1121-urgent-help-front-wheel-hub-bearing.html
 
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#22 ·
Stripped Axel Camry 2004

Thank you for the response, unfortunately I believe I have the correct parts (I wish it was that) because I did this same job on the driver side years ago with no issue. I am using Timken bearing 510063. It is probably the larger version because my 2004 is a really late production 2004 model. Do you know if the Timken 510063 means I have the larger bearing?

Anyway, my axel is completely stripped now, I'm so pissed. Is it possible to replace only the outer CV joint that includes the threaded shaft that the axel nut goes on? so I don't have to replace the whole half axel? Here are some pics, I am screwed!










Stripped 2004 Camry Axel (passenger side) 2 by Rr Reo, on Flickr
 
#23 ·
Wiggle the hub in the knuckle. Is it loose? If you stripped the axle, replace it. It's not worth the cost and time to replace the outer joint. I've had good luck with NAPA reman and Advance Auto Tough One New axles.
 
#24 · (Edited)
2004 Toyota Camry CV Axel Stripped

I wiggled it and it's tight. The bearing is brand new and the hub is brand new so now I guess I need a whole new axel or I risk ruining another bearing and hub since the axel nut won't tight properly. Is there a write up on replacing the CV axel? Specifically where it connects to the transmission?

So it is OK not to get an OEM CV axel? What after market brand is my best bet?

Here is a video showing the axel is stripped and pretty much shot beyond repairing the threads...
 
#25 · (Edited)
Carquest Part No: NCV69527 CARQUEST CV Shafts New CV Axle Shaft Assembly

Based on my VIN# at a OEM Toyota Part Website the passenger side CV axel part number is 43410-06450 and the best price i see is $365 plus shipping. I looked at Advance Auto and I don't see Tough One Axle's but I saw a Carquest Axel $84.99 linked below that is in stock at my local Advance Auto and after using the TRT30 30% discount, plus tax the grand total will be $64.62. Should I just get this axle? I've never heard of Carquest but $65 is awesome, hopefully it is the correct part and will fit exactly without needing any extra parts and will have the ABS grooves. Any thoughts on this Carquest Part No: NCV69527 CV Shafts New CV Axle Shaft Assembly? Says it fits the 2004 Camry, here is the link: Thanks for your help!

Link to part on Advance Auto's Website:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-cv-shafts-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv69527/20871255-P
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#26 ·
Timken's catalog shows 510063 as the only bearing for the year's V6. And RET50 as the retainer ring.

http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/

Just price out the aftermarket NEW axles with LIFETIME warranty from a local store. In case you have to exchange it later it's a lot easier. IMO I think they all probably come from the same factory in China anyway.:wink:

I wonder if the big wobbles is because the bad threads didn't allow the axle nut to be properly torqued down. And yes I'd recommend borrowing (look for free store loaner tool that's not banged up) a 1/2" 250 lb/ft torque wrench to properly torque down the axle nut, not using an impact just to make sure you have the correct load on the bearing.
 
#27 ·
Yes, absolutely I will not be using the impact gun. I just used that because I had no choice and it was my last resort, I have a nice big Torque wrench that I can torque down well over 200LBS by hand. I also believe that the issue is the messed up threads would not allow me to fully tighten the axel causing the wobble. So I just bought the "Carquest" brand CV passenger side axel from Advance Auto with local pickup for $64.62 grand total! Can't beat that plus it says lifetime warranty so I will pick it up tomorrow. This goes against my conviction of using OEM parts but $400 vs. $64.62...I can't stomach the OEM price so I hope this aftermarket fits and works with no issues.

Do I need to buy any other parts for this project? or is decently straight forward? I hope the new axle comes with that bearing in the middle that looks like it goes through an engine mount or something. Seems like that will be the hard park of the project. Thanks for your responses!
 
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