5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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Looking in the Toyota service manual, it makes no mention of draining the block during the 2AZ-FE coolant change? A diagram shows the block drain plug (they call it a "Water Drain Plug"), yet does not reference, or involve it in the change procedure? Seems weird that they did not mention draining the block, since there is a drain plug provided???
For you folks who have changed the coolant in your Gen 5, 2AZ-FE did you open up the block coolant drains, or just drain the radiator and refill?
Sometimes these items are hidden by the exhaust system, etc, or just to difficult to get to. The diagram does show a drain plug on the front drivers side area of the block and a drain cock on the divers side.
Many people just drain the radiator, remove the thermostat and flush the system.
Man.. It is exactly where it is supposed to be. just use your hand and use a torch to feel it. There are total of 4 hoses and 1 drain plug. If you are not touching bottom two hoses, you are touching the drain plug. screw it out. If you need pictures, I uploaded them few days back.. let me see if I can find it for you.
The ones with the red arrow are attached to the hoses of transmission oil. Dont touch that. that is totally a seperate system from coolant. but the spot near white stuff on the left side is drain plug. it is just a cork. and it would come out easily.
But be prepared. It would flush like 6 litres of liquid.
I was referring to the drain on the block, not the radiator of my Gen 5, 2AZ-FE. Coolant is in really good shape, and I may just drain and refill the radiator, and forgo draining the block, if the consensus was that it is pretty much not needed.
I guess I was surprised why the shop manual would show the block drain, yet make no mention of it during coolant maintenance? Perhaps it really is only needed to be opened with this particular year/engine Camry, if the coolant is very well past its prime.
Surf i've always found these block drain plugs problematic, maybe i'm just a tard. But if i have trouble finding em, i just leave em alone and drain the radiator as best i can. If you remove the bottom rad hose it drains directly from the water pump/engine and thats pretty darn close.
I Flush with plain water til it comes out clear - close the drain plugs, put the lower rad hose back on if you took it off, put the rad cap back on i.e. reseal the system - and turn the heater on full to flush that out too! And run the engine for 10 minutes or more, keeping an eye on the temp gauge. (The idea is the run it long enough to get the thermostat open and flush the engine too.)
I never use flushes or any that junk because then you have to flush an extra time to get that stuff out. Unless your cooling system is filthy there's no need to use cleaners in my view.
And then here is how i replace the coolant - so its not too diluted - ! DO NOt use premixed, not only is it a ripoff (check the price, same as for full strength coolant), you will wind up diluting your coolant ratio.
So when im refilling, i do this, i look up the coolant capacity of the car. (This information is in your owners manual or can be found here on this site.) Divide by half, and add this much (full strength) antifreeze, or a bit more. Then and only then, fill the rest of the way wit water (preferably distilled). This way your coolant mix will not be any less than 50/50!
(And one final tip - when flushing, or any other time for that matter, DO NOT ADD WATER to a hot engine unless the engine is running! Otherwise the cold water could crack thee engine block (violent temperature change)! With the engine running, the cold coolant instantly mixes with the hot and, raises its temp and prevents this from happening. )
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