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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 09-22-2011, 11:07 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
i have just done my 1st oil change on 07 TCH

1. oil filter is located in front of the engine, on the passenger side. it is right in front of the oil pan, towards the pass side tire well. it is not easily seen from underneath, as it is covered by plastic underpan. look for semicircular cutout in the underpan.
2. i had no problems reaching filter with just my hand. oil was already changed on this car, so i had little trouble undoing the filter. it was nothing like a very long filter described in the initial post. just regular shorty.
3. vehicle is so low that i did not dare driving onto the ramps. i used my 2 ton hydraulic. designated "bump" on the front crossmember is totally not visible from the front and underneath the vehicle, as it is above the lowermost part of plastic underpan. better way to position jack plate dead around it is to, actually, drive jack under the crossmember, then look from the top down. there's another recess in the underpan, around that bump, and it is easier to guide jack plate where it's supposed to be. of course, vehicle went onto jack stands and hydraulic was removed.
4. here's the funniest thing ever. i always flush my cars with flush oil. i drain, refill with cheap(walmart supertech) oil in same weight, then run engine for about 10 minutes, revving now and then, to get junk out of tight places. daah. it's a hybrid. engine cuts off and won't idle, he-he. so, i had to sit inside and tease throttle with my foot, to keep engine running. 5 minutes doing so cost me 0.1 mpg, dropped from 39.6 to 39.5.

i use only Amsoil synthetic oil and k&n filter. i did 0w20, as recommended. it's about 10 bucks per quart. yes. i do not go cheap on oils and filters. this oil runs easy 15 000 miles between changes.
reason i use k&n is simple. the best oil filter in the country is mobil1. i tracked down the guy who did research on oil filters and asked him about k&n. he bought one, gutted it, and replied that it is as good as mobil1, except that it has 2 more things: large nut welded on the top for ease of removal, 1'' socket, and a blow by valve built inside the nut. for cases when oil pressure exceeds specs. which will never happen to my car, but...
so, let me see: 5 x 10=50 for oil; 12 for oil filter; 11 for 5 qrt can of supertech flush oil(used to be 4 bucks!) equals around 73 bucks oil change with flush. you know what? i am very happy with it. have yrs long perfect experience with this approach. considering 15 000 miles between oil changes, it is more cost efficient than anything else.
my wife's Rx300 does 12 000 on Amsoil before oil even starts darkening. and it is clear mid-darkness honey color when i change it. about 13-14 mths.
Did you have to take off the underpan? I was trying to locate it w/o raising the car due to the weather but I just wanted to locate it but couldn't. Is it easy to torque and leverage?

Thanks

+1 on the picture too!
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:40 PM   #137 (permalink)
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I'm a bit frustrated as I'm trying to find an oil filter for my car? I was trying to go AMSOIL filter but they don't even make it for the 2010 4 cylinder?

This is basically a cartridge type?

Last edited by FishyMan; 10-08-2011 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:24 AM   #138 (permalink)
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just changed the oil on my 07 se to synthetic now from regular motor oil.

used 5w20 Mobil 1 , 4 quarts , a Mobil 1 m103 oil filter. technically you can use your own jack thats in your car near the passenger side and jack it up. and walla its near the your shock but once your under there you'll see the hex bolt and the oil filter. hope this is good info for people.

but if you have a v6 i think you use around 6 qts of oil. but not sure but i have my honda pilot that uses 6 qts

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Old 11-05-2011, 07:08 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by barthmonster View Post
Dude, a FRAM has a 'bypass' valve that bypasses the filter element at times it shouldn't like when the car starts up or when the filter is plugged. Get a WIX or NAPA Gold (WIX). Wix doesn't have the bypass valve.
Wow, there's a piece of poor information. A full flow oil filter has a by-pass valve in it to: A) allow cold, thick oil around the filter element when starting. Otherwise, the thick oil can't get through the element right away, even if it's a brand new clean one. B) allow oil around the filter element if the element should become clogged because it's so dirty and restrictive. Dirty oil in the bearings is better than no oil in the bearings!!

Some engines incororate the by-pass valve into the filter adaptor/block and the filter doesn't need a bypass valve built into it. Majority of engines require a filter with a by-pass valve in it because the engine itself doesn't have one.

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Old 11-05-2011, 07:36 PM   #140 (permalink)
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I killed alot of time on researching what is the best oil filter for my 2007 Camry.
Fram Xtended Guard -best filter you can find.
This filter constructed and perform better that twice more expensive "Big name" filters.
metal mesh + cellulose+ synthetic fibers, double dirt holding capacity and up to 10k miles intervals-you cant beat it.
It came firs in most of the test I've seen.
cheap fram are just average filters, but this one is way better than WIX or Mobil can offer even for double of Fram price.
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