5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
3) I did a double take when I saw the FRAM Extraguard oil filter compared to the Toyota oil filter. Same diameter and correct fitting, but the replacement FRAM filter is only HALF as tall. I checked the website 4 times to make sure I got the right model number. I even called FRAM. They reassured me it was right. The toyota filter apparently has some wasted space in it... its taller with less mesh filter, where the FRAM filter is shorter with more mesh filter... so it does the same job (or better) in less space. Go figure.
I haven't found a Fram ExtraGuard but I have a standard Fram, CH9972 and it is identical in size and apparent material to the Toyota 04152-YZZA1. Just wondering how a shorter filer will fill the space?
__________________
2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
Great write up but one thing I would like to see you edit in the original post is the step where you say to use some of the old oil. Please change it to read new oil for two reasons 1) used motor oil is a known carcinogen and 2) the reason you change your oil is because of the contaminants suspended within the oil itself. These contaminants could cause in improper seal between the oil filter gasket and filter housing which would result in a leak.
Other than that, it looks pretty good.
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Does anyone have pictures of the V6 camry for the oil filter placement? I want to help my buddy do his oil change...=p. However looking over the thread no pics of that.
Does anyone have pictures of the V6 camry for the oil filter placement? I want to help my buddy do his oil change...=p. However looking over the thread no pics of that.
The following procedure is for an '06 Avalon. Same motor as V-6 in later Camry's, so it will work in your case as well.
You reuse the adapter connected to tubing because it's tough getting the tubing over the adapter. Once connected you can reuse it without problems of leakage. I've used my original adapter 4 times. Of course if you want to keep reconnecting the tubing that's an option too.
Personally, I don't care for the filter media oil change procedure. The canister type is much cleaner and easier. That's just my opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07XLE
Why reuse it? Every toyota filter comes with a new one??
Toyota motors requires that on all our oil changes, regardless of model, we use 10w30 synthetic blend.." They actually use Quakerstate. Don't know if all dealers are like that, or just Texas, or just the one I called....
Hmm somebody at the dealership doesnt know what they are talking about, sounds like to me. Since its safe to say that toyota probably doesnt recomend one oil for this dealership and another kind for everybody else - i'd say use what toyota says in the owners manual - for along time this has been a 5 - 30 - maybe a little light for a Texas summer though and that is what they meant. and you can make your own synthetic blend by adding a qt of mobil 1 at the next change along with the dino oil
This is just a quick FYI for all the do-it-your-selfers, who plan on doing an oil change on their Camry. I'm a newbie to Camry's but definitely not a newbie to oil changes... But I spent a few hours working through a couple of issues and just wanted to save people the hassle!
**There are a lot of mistakes I've found in the owners manual and/or ommissions. That is where a majority of my trial and error came from. So here you go!**
1) The oil pan plug is a standard 14mm hex socket. No big deal. that will just save you a few minutes of playing the "test the socket size" game.
2) Unless my Camry was a fluke, the oil filter was NOT hand tightened at the factory. I think RoboCop got a second job and tightened it! Save yourself the hassle and if you don't already have the tool, go to WalMart and get the oil filter socket adapter. And you will need a long extention arm for your socket wrench (probably 5-6in). The hole in the fireguard and the proximity of the filter to the engine block makes it impossible for anyone with normal hands to get a good grip and turn. (This reminds me, when you go to put the new filter on, be sure to rub the rubber gasket with a little bit of the old oil.. just to help create a good seal... and only hand tighten it and an extra 3/4 turn!)
3) I did a double take when I saw the FRAM Extraguard oil filter compared to the Toyota oil filter. Same diameter and correct fitting, but the replacement FRAM filter is only HALF as tall. I checked the website 4 times to make sure I got the right model number. I even called FRAM. They reassured me it was right. The toyota filter apparently has some wasted space in it... its taller with less mesh filter, where the FRAM filter is shorter with more mesh filter... so it does the same job (or better) in less space. Go figure.
(I wanted to use a Mobil 1 filter, but looked everywhere and couldn't find one..)
4) The owners manual says use 0w20 or 5w20 full synthetic motor oil. I suggest Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20, just because I think the oil should have some weight to it. Just my opinion. I'm in Texas where we have had 39 days of 100+ temps. So I need a little weight to the oil. I called the local toyota dealer and asked them what they used.... the lady said "Toyota motors requires that on all our oil changes, regardless of model, we use 10w30 synthetic blend.." They actually use Quakerstate. Don't know if all dealers are like that, or just Texas, or just the one I called.... sounded like a company line, and she wouldn't let me talk to a technician.. so take it for what it is worth. The manual says 0 or 5w20 full syn. Thats what I used.
5) When I drained my oil pan, I let it drip till it was about dry.... obviously an oil change place isn't going to wait that long. But if you take the time, you will probably get 90% of the old oil out. Then when I filled it, it took exactly 4 qts. Not a drop more or less.
6) Okay here is the biggest mistake: Ignore what the manual says about how to reset the MAINT REQD light. Its completely wrong. In fact, the first hint should have been when it said there was a MAINT REQD SOON light. I shined a flashlight at the dash to see what all the possible indicators are, and there is no MAINT REQD SOON light... anyway, I have an LE model with a I4. If someone else has a different trim level or v6, and I'm wrong correct me. anyway, here is what you do to reset the MAINT REQD light so it will quit blinking:
a) With the Engine ON click your Odometer/TripA/TripB selector knob so
the display shows TRIP A
b) Turn the car off
c) Turn the key 1 click to ACC (accessory mode)
d) While in ACC, press and hold the selector knob in (don't worry that
can't see anything on the dashboard.)
e) While you are still holding the selector knob, click the key 1 more
position to the ON position.
f) If you do it correctly, you will see the TripA display change to some
numbers and then start blinking quickly. you will also see the MAINT
REQD blinking quickly. After about 5 seconds of holding the knob in
the display should show 0000000000000 then go away.
Start the car up, and no more MAINT REQD light until you put another 4500miles on the car!
Hope that helps everyone. Cost me 3 hours of my Saturday evening, when I planned on a 30 minute oil change.
did anyone know that change oil by yourself during the manufacturer warranty time will void your the warranty of the car? That is what the dealer told me when I bought the car.
did anyone know that change oil by yourself during the manufacturer warranty time will void your the warranty of the car? That is what the dealer told me when I bought the car.
No, keep all purchase receipts and a maintenance log with work done (following the maintenance schedule), date and mileage and you will be ok.
This is just a quick FYI for all the do-it-your-selfers, who plan on doing an oil change on their Camry. I'm a newbie to Camry's but definitely not a newbie to oil changes... But I spent a few hours working through a couple of issues and just wanted to save people the hassle!
**There are a lot of mistakes I've found in the owners manual and/or ommissions. That is where a majority of my trial and error came from. So here you go!**
1) The oil pan plug is a standard 14mm hex socket. No big deal. that will just save you a few minutes of playing the "test the socket size" game.
2) Unless my Camry was a fluke, the oil filter was NOT hand tightened at the factory. I think RoboCop got a second job and tightened it! Save yourself the hassle and if you don't already have the tool, go to WalMart and get the oil filter socket adapter. And you will need a long extention arm for your socket wrench (probably 5-6in). The hole in the fireguard and the proximity of the filter to the engine block makes it impossible for anyone with normal hands to get a good grip and turn. (This reminds me, when you go to put the new filter on, be sure to rub the rubber gasket with a little bit of the old oil.. just to help create a good seal... and only hand tighten it and an extra 3/4 turn!)
3) I did a double take when I saw the FRAM Extraguard oil filter compared to the Toyota oil filter. Same diameter and correct fitting, but the replacement FRAM filter is only HALF as tall. I checked the website 4 times to make sure I got the right model number. I even called FRAM. They reassured me it was right. The toyota filter apparently has some wasted space in it... its taller with less mesh filter, where the FRAM filter is shorter with more mesh filter... so it does the same job (or better) in less space. Go figure.
(I wanted to use a Mobil 1 filter, but looked everywhere and couldn't find one..)
4) The owners manual says use 0w20 or 5w20 full synthetic motor oil. I suggest Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20, just because I think the oil should have some weight to it. Just my opinion. I'm in Texas where we have had 39 days of 100+ temps. So I need a little weight to the oil. I called the local toyota dealer and asked them what they used.... the lady said "Toyota motors requires that on all our oil changes, regardless of model, we use 10w30 synthetic blend.." They actually use Quakerstate. Don't know if all dealers are like that, or just Texas, or just the one I called.... sounded like a company line, and she wouldn't let me talk to a technician.. so take it for what it is worth. The manual says 0 or 5w20 full syn. Thats what I used.
5) When I drained my oil pan, I let it drip till it was about dry.... obviously an oil change place isn't going to wait that long. But if you take the time, you will probably get 90% of the old oil out. Then when I filled it, it took exactly 4 qts. Not a drop more or less.
6) Okay here is the biggest mistake: Ignore what the manual says about how to reset the MAINT REQD light. Its completely wrong. In fact, the first hint should have been when it said there was a MAINT REQD SOON light. I shined a flashlight at the dash to see what all the possible indicators are, and there is no MAINT REQD SOON light... anyway, I have an LE model with a I4. If someone else has a different trim level or v6, and I'm wrong correct me. anyway, here is what you do to reset the MAINT REQD light so it will quit blinking:
a) With the Engine ON click your Odometer/TripA/TripB selector knob so
the display shows TRIP A
b) Turn the car off
c) Turn the key 1 click to ACC (accessory mode)
d) While in ACC, press and hold the selector knob in (don't worry that
can't see anything on the dashboard.)
e) While you are still holding the selector knob, click the key 1 more
position to the ON position.
f) If you do it correctly, you will see the TripA display change to some
numbers and then start blinking quickly. you will also see the MAINT
REQD blinking quickly. After about 5 seconds of holding the knob in
the display should show 0000000000000 then go away.
Start the car up, and no more MAINT REQD light until you put another 4500miles on the car!
Hope that helps everyone. Cost me 3 hours of my Saturday evening, when I planned on a 30 minute oil change.
Dude, a FRAM has a 'bypass' valve that bypasses the filter element at times it shouldn't like when the car starts up or when the filter is plugged. Get a WIX or NAPA Gold (WIX). Wix doesn't have the bypass valve.
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