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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-28-2009, 06:04 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:09 PM   #62 (permalink)
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i have been calculating it since the first tank of gas and never had it better than 20 mpg in town.
Update from original post on this thread -

Now at 17 k miles. Oil use is 1 qt per 3000 miles or so. Dealer is "monitoring" this usage, but it falls within "normal" (check ANY manufaturer for this type of use, and they will say the same). Actually, it is within an 'acceptable" range, and there's nothing anyone would ever do about that. Talked with a service manager at my dealer, he bought a tundra w/ a V-8. Had the same kind of usage, and he said to switch to a 30 weight oil, as he did, and that solved his usage concern. So, that's what I will do eventually. Will start by going half and half with 20 and 30 (will use Mobil 1 as that is rated GF for our cars, and see if that helps). Will update down the road to see it this actually will work.

Gas milage has never really improved beyond 20 city, 26 - 27 highway, but I live in a bit of a hilly type area, so maybe that's within acceptable range. My guess is that this is "OK".

Front end alignment was out since I got the car. I do not drive it that much, as it is my daughter's car, but I had them reset it. Too bad I waited so long, as they charged me a c note to do that.

Got rid of the oriiginal Bridgestone EL 400 tires, they were shot at 15K. Worst tires I think I ever had. Put a new set of General unidirectional H rated Altimas HP's, and they are great. Good in the wet, as I do not have traction control, and now I get no wheel spin when raining. Top rated at Tire Rack, and they are head and shoulders above the factory tires, if you want a standard fit. Also, price was not so bad. Also put on a set of factory alloys from a Hybrid I got for $250, practically brand new from a forum member who went with Lexus alloys on his car at 8K miles. Good deal there.

Got the ECM reflashed due to shifting goofiness, and it did help, for those of you who have an '07 with dopey shifing characteristics and were wondering why, although that's been discussed on this forum. There is a TSB on this, so, don't take any crap from your dealer if you want this, and your VIN falls within those that are eligible for it.

Lastly, had the dashboard redone by the dealer for excessive noise, especially when cold. Had the TSB number for that one, and they did it with no questions.

Later.....
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:26 PM   #63 (permalink)
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i have been calculating it since the first tank of gas and never had it better than 20 mpg in town.
87 octane is fine, don't go to a higher octane, waste of money. Syn oil is good, but you really won't see better milage. Engine should be fully set in at 1 - 2 k miles. Syn oil will help your engine run cooler internally though, and give you a bit more extra protection in an "overheat" situation, though you will probably never experience that.
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:34 PM   #64 (permalink)
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No, he is right. You won't notice anything. The Bottom weight (0, 5, or 10) denotes flow characteistics at 0 degrees. Little known or understood, is that a lower weight (0 or 5) also flows better at start up, and has the same "20 or 30 weight" hot temp protection. All things considered, 0 weight is the better oil, just due to it's start up flow characteristics. But, in reality, all are fine, especially if syn.. Look at cold flow characterteristics for syn. oil at 10 and 5W low number, they flow real well at rediculous low temps. Not so for standard dino. Compare them to dino oil, and if you live in really cold temps, make your decision.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:18 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:56 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 07CamMeg View Post
No, he is right. You won't notice anything. The Bottom weight (0, 5, or 10) denotes flow characteistics at 0 degrees. Little known or understood, is that a lower weight (0 or 5) also flows better at start up, and has the same "20 or 30 weight" hot temp protection. All things considered, 0 weight is the better oil, just due to it's start up flow characteristics. But, in reality, all are fine, especially if syn.. Look at cold flow characterteristics for syn. oil at 10 and 5W low number, they flow real well at rediculous low temps. Not so for standard dino. Compare them to dino oil, and if you live in really cold temps, make your decision.

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