how the heck do you get that rotor off? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 05-04-2007, 09:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen5 how the heck do you get that rotor off?

I have a Gen 5.5 Camry V6 and wasted a friday trying to install some new rotors on the car. I got the brakes and bolts off and the only thing left was to remove the old rotor and put in the new one. That thing is HARD to get off, I don;t know whether i am doing it wrong or it is too rusted to get off. I tried banging it with a rubber mallet w/ WD40, but it ate away at the mallet. Soo.........what do I do now?
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you're installed new rotors why use a rubber mallet?

Hit the rotor between the studs. That should loosen them up so you can replace them.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is there a screw in the hub? Otherwise, ^^^^ Yeah, hit it!
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Old 05-05-2007, 07:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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the service manual just said remove caliper bracket bolts, and the rotor should be free from hub, sometime rotor is rusted on the hub as it ages, i've learn two way to remove stuck rotor:
way one, there should be two small hole, i don't recall exact size, but i found two right size bolts and turn both bolts evenly on the rotor to push the rotor away from hub.

way two is use force, use a two by four wood stud, place on rotor, and use a big hammer on rotor and hit wood stud hard until rotor comes off.
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You can try this, reinstall all the parts and put the wheels back on the car. Run car, put in drive and drive forward a little and apply brakes, go in reverse and go backward, apply brakes, go back and forth several times, apply rust penetrant to stud area but dont get it on pads of course. The idea is to rock the rotors a little to loosen them some.

If the rotor is bad and getting tossed anyway, then as a last resort, a large three-jawed puller can be used to help remove it. (I wouldn't try this on a rotor to be used again because there's a good chance the puller might ruin it.) These pullers are about $22 a set at www.harborfreight. com - But go slowly and bang on the rotor as you tighten the long nut on the puller, and this ought to take the rotors off.


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Old 05-07-2007, 12:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I finally got that rusted old rotor off with a 7mm threading screw. That made me so happy... Now that i think about it, the reason that it was such a pain to take off was that my car always been hit with water sprinkers and it rusted my rotors extra fast. But thanks for the tips guys.
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Old 05-07-2007, 03:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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"Now that i think about it, the reason that it was such a pain to take off was that my car always been hit with water sprinkers and it rusted my rotors extra fast. But thanks for the tips guys."

If you think the sprinklers are a problem, try moving to the snow belt area where they use road salt in the Winter. Then you will know what rusted on really is.

The 2 screws were the right way to go. Glad it's finally off.

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Old 05-08-2007, 12:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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actually i will be moving out to downers grove near chicago this fall for pharmacy school. I guess i will be enjoying my shiny new rotors for only about half a yr before winter comes.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Now that i think about it, the reason that it was such a pain to take off was that my car always been hit with water sprinkers and it rusted my rotors extra fast. But thanks for the tips guys."

If you think the sprinklers are a problem, try moving to the snow belt area where they use road salt in the Winter. Then you will know what rusted on really is.


Next time, try using some high-temp anti sieze paste where the rotor touches the hub and stud threads. Dont put anti sieze on the studs threads, just at the bottom part the rotor goes over. And you want to keep the anti sieze away from the rotor part of course.
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber
If you think the sprinklers are a problem, try moving to the snow belt area where they use road salt in the Winter. Then you will know what rusted on really is.

Mike

I hear ya man. In my neck of the woods(Northwest Pennsylvania) the weather sucks in the winter. Had to go buy a new snowblower!

Last edited by MAR; 05-08-2007 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAR

I hear ya man. In my neck of the woods(Northwest Pennsylvania) the weather sucks in the winter. Had to go buy a new snowblower!
I dont want winter to come, I just know my new paint is going to get all chipped
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