Rear disc brake question (caliper)...

[Surfslinger]

Getting ready to change out the rear pads on my 2003 U.S. built Camry SE, and need to know about resetting the caliper piston.

Does anyone know for sure if the piston can be simply pressed back in with a C-clamp, or is it the type that has to be turned in with the bleeder cracked? Did not see anything mentioning the type in the Toyota service manual, and appreciate hearing from you folks who have actually done a brake service for this car.

Thank you for the help!

SS

[majorgercko1]

just press.

[Surfslinger]

Thanks Majorgercko1!

Going to be trying a new set of Monroe ceramic pads... Couldn't resist the $11 price after $20 mail in rebate from Rock Auto. The pads look like well made, well packaged quality parts that include new anti squeak clips and moly grease in the box. Parts arrived 19 hours after ordering with std shipping ($6).

So far so good.

SS

[sundarpn]

post your opinion on how the pads performed after you installed them

also any pictures of the install will help

[Surfslinger]

Way ahead of you sundarpn ... I was going to provide post service feedback, but since you asked for pics... I figured what the hell.

Tools used:

- Jack
- Jack Stands
- Wheel chock (12" long 4x4)
- 21mm deep socket and breaker bar (wheel removal/installation)
- Torque wrench
- 14mm wrench
- 12mm wrench
- Needle nose pliers
- Large flat blade screwdriver
- Large C-clamp
- Wire/string
- Rags
- Brake cleaner
- Anti seize lube
- Brake pad kit (pads, new anti squeak clips, caliper pin lube)


Really a very easy, straight forward service. My 2003 Camry SE is a US made model that uses a different rear brake setup than a Japanese made one, but overall they are very similar.

After safely raising and supporting the vehicle (to include the use of a front wheel chock) with the wheels removed you are ready to start. First I remove the brake fluid reservoir cap to allow fluid pushed back into the system space, without building up pressure and risking popping the cap and spewing fluid everywhere. Next the brake hose hold down bolt is removed with your 12mm wrench to allow for the caliper to pivot. Next find the two caliper bolts and loosen the bottom one with a 14mm wrench, and remove the bolt.



Next, use the same 14mm wrench and loosen the top bolt slightly, but DO NOT remove. Now swing up the caliper and retain it in place with your wire or string, and remove the old pads, and anti squeak clips. You might need a screwdriver to pry the back pads out, and be careful pulling the clips so as not to cut yourself:



I was not going to turn the rotors this time, so I cleaned the disk with the brake cleaner, and installed the new clips by pushing them in place till fully seated:



Get your new pads, and lightly clean the friction surface to remove manufacturing dust, and also at this time use the needle nose pliers to remove the old wear indicator and install it on the new inner pad. The caliper piston needs to be pushed all the way till it bottoms out, and you can use a C-clamp, or your hands if possible. I used my fingers, and got it all the way pushed to the bottom.

New pads go in:



and swing the caliper into its original position. If it will not go, make sure the pads are fully seated, and the caliper piston is fully pushed in. Also make sure not to damage the rubber caliper pin boots during reassembly:




Next get the packet of caliper pin lube, and apply it to the lower bolt you removed and install the caliper bolt screwing in just hand tight.



Now remove the upper caliper bolt, lube it, and install hand tight. Make sure the rubber boots/bellows fully seat when installing the pins. Next comes the torque wrench, and for my car the correct torque for these bolts is 32 ft/lb's. Reinstall the brake hose hold down bolt with a little anti-seize applied to the threads, and double check your work. Repeat previous steps for the other side.

If all looks well, install the wheels, put the brake fluid cap back on, and sit in the drivers seat and pump the brake pedal until the pedal is hard.

Lower the car, go back to the wheels and final torque the lug nuts to the correct torque, remove the front wheel chock, and go for a break-in drive. Monroe says to come to 15-20 gentle stops from 20 mph to break the pads in. Congratulations, you just saved a bunch-O-$$$.

The new pads seem to work well, installed easily/correctly, and made no noise at all in use. I literally never drive the car (it's my wifes) so an accurate comparison to the old pads by me would really not be accurate. I was surprised to see very uneven wear of the old pads on the drivers side. One pad was worn to the backing, while the other was almost new. I'm hoping the situation will be better with the new clips and moly pin lube.

Thanks for reading,

SS

[Punks_Not_Dead5]

I used those Monroe pads on my Z24 and they work great! I got them for a good price too!

[eflw1029]

This was a excellent write-up well documented with graphics for those who like pictorials. Does anyone know the p/n of the 2007 brake pads for both front and rears? I know it's kind of early as yet but no harm in documenting and staging parts....

[njerald]

Originally Posted by eflw1029

This was a excellent write-up well documented with graphics for those who like pictorials. Does anyone know the p/n of the 2007 brake pads for both front and rears? I know it's kind of early as yet but no harm in documenting and staging parts....

Front: I4 - 04465-33240, V6 USA - 04665-08030, V6 Japan - 04465-33350

Rear: USA - 04466-06060, Japan - 04466-33160

[eflw1029]

thanks!

[qprint]

I've read somewhere that before you push the piston back into the caliper, you should open the bleeder screw and push all that dirty fluid inside the caliper out and discard it. Then follow bleeding the caliper using new fluid.

[Surfslinger]

Originally Posted by qprint

I've read somewhere that before you push the piston back into the caliper, you should open the bleeder screw and push all that dirty fluid inside the caliper out and discard it. Then follow bleeding the caliper using new fluid.

That would seem to be sound advice, but at the time I was lazy and will probably do a "Bleed only" service in the future.

Thanks,
SS

[Sinned]

Your brake job was well written and I am tackling the brakes on my 03 Camry SE. Mine was made in Japan so I am wondering about some of the differences in the job. The rear caliper does not have the upper retaining bolt that you have shown in your project. I was able to remove the lower bolt and pivot the caliper up to access the pads but I cannot get the room I need to pivot the caliper back down. It hits the outside pad. It is not the piston side that is giving me problems but the outside pad. Is there a way to loosen the top so as to give myself a bit more room for the new pads? How do I service the upper pin?