5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Are your having issues with the battery? Is the engine cranking slowly? If not, I say just keep on going. My wifes 02 I4 still has the original battery in it and its still going strong.
--I've had a brand new battery fail 4 months after installation
--I've had a brand new battery last over 7 years. Sold the car before the original battery ever failed
--Let the car sit for awhile and using your volt meter check the standing voltage. Should be at least 12.5. Compare to another car with a fresh battery if in doubt.
--Since you live in an area that gets cold the odds are that one morning you will find it sluggish to start and then it is time to replace.
It depends on a number of factors. Own a battery charger that you can use if you need an emergency boost one morning? Own a second car you can use for a jump? Have Auto Club insurance? Don't bother wasting your money. If not and feeling a little insecure? Get a new battery.
Now, what kind? As a general rule, they are almost all about the same with different labels. Since there is relatively little difference in price between a 3 year and a 6 year battery, get what you can best afford and know they will all fail at about the same time. I used to buy Sears Diehard and got out of that rut. They would fail at 24 months and I would have to buy another at their pro-rated price to get a new battery. I learned. They weren't any better than the cheapies at Pep Boys and Walmart. Today my preference is for Pep Boys because the store is walking distance if I need to hoof it. Take a look at warranties and pick one. There won't be $5 difference between all of them. Batteries are a commodity item like milk and bread.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
I replaced my 03 battery cuz I wanted to. I got a bigger one with a higher CCA #. Mainly cuz I have several things that draw significant power when I start my car.
--I've had a brand new battery fail 4 months after installation
--I've had a brand new battery last over 7 years. Sold the car before the original battery ever failed
--Let the car sit for awhile and using your volt meter check the standing voltage. Should be at least 12.5. Compare to another car with a fresh battery if in doubt.
--Since you live in an area that gets cold the odds are that one morning you will find it sluggish to start and then it is time to replace.
It depends on a number of factors. Own a battery charger that you can use if you need an emergency boost one morning? Own a second car you can use for a jump? Have Auto Club insurance? Don't bother wasting your money. If not and feeling a little insecure? Get a new battery.
Now, what kind? As a general rule, they are almost all about the same with different labels. Since there is relatively little difference in price between a 3 year and a 6 year battery, get what you can best afford and know they will all fail at about the same time. I used to buy Sears Diehard and got out of that rut. They would fail at 24 months and I would have to buy another at their pro-rated price to get a new battery. I learned. They weren't any better than the cheapies at Pep Boys and Walmart. Today my preference is for Pep Boys because the store is walking distance if I need to hoof it. Take a look at warranties and pick one. There won't be $5 difference between all of them. Batteries are a commodity item like milk and bread.
Nobody really answered the question about cold cranking amps. You will need to buy a battery which fits. Look for the group # on the top of the old battery. 24F I think. The posts should be in the correct position with the correct polarity as the old battery. You will notice, looking at labels, that the longer the warranty, the more CCA it will claim. Buy the most expensive battery and you will likely get the battery with the largest CCA numbers as well. Lead-acid batteries begin to die the day they are made, so to have a long warranty they need to build in more initial capacity and this is done by varying the thickness of the case and the internal plates. On an average fall day it doesn't take much to start a car and the battery is only being taxed for 3-4 seconds. The real test comes when the weather is colder, the engine is tighter and presents more resistance to turning, and the temp has dropped the battery capacity.
Batteries are cheap. If you are getting nervous about the battery, go and buy a new battery. You shouldn't angst about a car battery. Kidney transplant yes but not a battery.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
I have had great luck with and recommend Optima batteries.
You're better safe than sorry when it comes to batteries. It WILL fail, why wait until you are inconvienced by it's failure? If you make it four years, you're lucky. You could go more but why chance it? It's not worth the gamble. If you buy it this year or next, it won't save you any money either way.
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