2004 Camry 2.4L Timing Chain replacement !

[norbisko]

Has anyone done it ? I have a chance to buy, 04 Camry with about 83,xxx on the clock. I can get it for a good price , just because the timing chain is starting to make noise. I know they have a updated timing chain tensioner. Can that be done without taking the timing cover off ? If not I may as well do the chain since I'll be in there anyway. Does anyone have instructions on how to do it ?

Ps. I do have some mechanical knowleage, I've done timing belts, head work, etc. Just never got a change to do a timing chain .

Thanks

[MrSo0h0o]

correct me if im wrong, but i thought the timing chain doesnt need to be serviced?

[klaw126]

According to the Toyota parts and service it recommends that you change the TIMING BELT at the 90,000 miles 72/moths interval. I am not sure if this is the same thing as the the timing chain. It gives a part number of 1mz-fe. I recently changed my timing belt but I haven't thought about needing to replace the chain or re tension it.

[Evostar]

Originally Posted by klaw126

According to the Toyota parts and service it recommends that you change the TIMING BELT at the 90,000 miles 72/moths interval. I am not sure if this is the same thing as the the timing chain. It gives a part number of 1mz-fe. I recently changed my timing belt but I haven't thought about needing to replace the chain or re tension it.

I think the V belt need to be changed every 100K km interval or earlier and the timing chain need to changed every 200k km or 300k km...

[Punks_Not_Dead5]

Camry doesn't have a timing chain..it's a timing belt..and should be done every 90,000miles if it needs it or not....and you may as well get the water pump replaced at the sametime because they usually go at 100,000miles...and since the belt is already off it's not much extra work involved....

[norbisko]

So how come when I look up toyota genuine parts catalog, for 2004 toyota Camry with 2.4L 4cyl engine it lists TIMING CHAIN ? Why would I change it ? Because it makes noise !

[Punks_Not_Dead5]

change it for preventative maintenance. If you plan on keeping the car for 200k miles+ If not..leave it...

[touringcamry]

Just to clarify things:

The Camry with 2AZ-FE, 2.4l, has a timing chain that does not need replacement.

The 1MZ-FE, 3.0l, and the 3MZ-FE, 3.3l, have timing belts that do need to be replaced. This is more important on the 3MZ-FE because it's an interference engine meaning the pistons will hit the valves if the belt breaks.

The 2GR-FE has a timing chain also that does not need replacement.

[Punks_Not_Dead5]

^ ah ok, i was just going off the V6 info..since that's what i own.

Thanks for clairfying though.

[TRD VVTi]

Originally Posted by norbisko

Has anyone done it ? I have a chance to buy, 04 Camry with about 83,xxx on the clock. I can get it for a good price , just because the timing chain is starting to make noise. I know they have a updated timing chain tensioner. Can that be done without taking the timing cover off ? If not I may as well do the chain since I'll be in there anyway. Does anyone have instructions on how to do it ?

Ps. I do have some mechanical knowleage, I've done timing belts, head work, etc. Just never got a change to do a timing chain .

Thanks

You should really consult the online manual. It will be a lot more detailed than an explanation that can be typed here.

[DressUpYourPet]

According to the Toyota parts and service it recommends that you change the TIMING BELT at the 90,000 miles 72/moths interval. I am not sure if this is the same thing as the the timing chain.

Depends on the year of car. Timing belt and timing chain are not the same and are mutually exclusive. Timing chain is on some camry engines after 2003 i think. And since you asked, neither timing chain NOR timing belt should EVER need to be retensioned - you change them at interval or if they break and thats that.

Timing chain is better because usually they last at least 200,000 miles, you would usually only need to change it when you do a valve job or something. Change the oil and it will last you. The tensioner is the weak part, (when i changed my nissan truck chain after 230,ooo preventatively, the only part that had serious wear was the rubber tensioner block. Everything else was good to go for another 50k at least - gear teeth were sharp with no wear ridges, the chain had no bow and links showed almost no wear.)

But of course if the timing chain makes noise, the covers have got to come off the front. You might be able to do a low buck fix, and change the tensioner if thats what the problem turns out to be. But im the pessimist type and i too would just change the gears and chain - unless i inspected them and were completely certain they were still pretty much like new! (No wear marks on chain links, no bow, all teeth on gears sharp like new with no wear ridge, in short unless the gear and chain looked exactly like new ones out of the box id just change em anyway!)

It gives a part number of 1mz-fe. I recently changed my timing belt but I haven't thought about needing to replace the chain or re tension it.

1mz-FE as you probly know is what toyota calls the older V6. In your case the part number was the same as engine number im guesing. You probably have a belt, not a chain, cause you definitely dont have both on your engine (unless a mad scientist worked on the engine before you bought the car or something.) And like i said, you never have to retension a timing belt. If the timing belt is loose you replace the tensioner part.

I think you should just automatically change the tensioner on either the 4 OR 6cyl at least every SECOND timing belt change no matter how it looks good or not.

[TRD VVTi]

It's a 2AZ-FE everyone, that's what a 2004 2.4L is. There is NOT a timing belt, it's a chain.

[JustAnotherAsian]

there is a serpentine belt that needs changing around that mile interval for the 2az-fe 2.4L camrys... *hint- look at my sig*

[JSM1284]

Have Fun


Service and RepairPart 1 Of 3
Part 2 Of 3

CHAIN
REPLACEMENT

1. REMOVE HOOD SUB-ASSY
2. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL RH
3. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
4. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
5. REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
6. DRAIN ENGINE OIL

a)Install a new gasket and the drain plug after draining engine oil.
Torque: 25 Nm (255 kgf-cm, 18 ft. lbs.)

1. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSY FRONT
2. REMOVE ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD W/BRACKET

a)Remove the 3 bolts and control rod.

1. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING STAY NO.2 RH
2. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET NO.2 RH
3. REMOVE FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
4. REMOVE ENGINE COVER SUB-ASSY NO.1
5. DISCONNECT ENGINE WIRE
6. REMOVE GENERATOR ASSY
7. REMOVE VANE PUMP ASSY NOTICE: Do not disconnect the hose.
8. REMOVE IGNITION COIL ASSY
9. DISCONNECT VENTILATION HOSE
10. DISCONNECT VENTILATION HOSE NO.2
11. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER SUB-ASSY

a)Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine wire harness clamp.b)Remove the 8 bolts and 2 nuts, and disconnect the cylinder head cover.

1. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION
2. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

a)Using SST, fix the pulley and loosen the bolt.b)Using SST, remove the bolt and pulley.

1. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSY

a)Remove the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.


b)Insert the blade of SST between the crankcase and oil pan. Cut through the sealer and remove the oil pan.
SST 09032-00100NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surface of the cylinder block and oil pan.

1. REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER ASSY NO.1

a)Remove the 2 nuts, tensioner and gasket.NOTICE: Do not revolve the crankshaft without the tensioner.

1. REMOVE V-RIBBED BELT TENSIONER ASSY

a)Remove the bolt, nut and tensioner.

1. INSTALL ENGINE HANGER

a)Install the engine hanger No. 1 and No. 2 with the bolts as shown in the illustration.

Parts No.

Torque: 38 Nm (387 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)

1. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR

a)Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers.CAUTION: Do not attempt to hang the engine by hooking the chain to any other part.


b)Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine mounting insulator FR.


c)M/T: Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine lateral control rod.


d)Remove the bolt and disconnect the steering gear return hose clamp from the frame.


e)Remove the 4 nuts from the engine mounting insulator RH. Raise the engine and remove the engine mounting insulator RH.

1. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH

a)Remove the 3 bolts and engine mounting bracket.

1. REMOVE TIMING CHAIN OR BELT COVER SUB-ASSY

a)Remove the stud bolt for the drive belt tensioner from the cylinder block.b)Remove the 14 bolts and 2 nuts.c)Pry out the timing chain cover with a screwdriver.NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the timing chain cover, cylinder block and cylinder head.

1. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR PLATE NO.1
2. REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER SLIPPER
3. REMOVE CHAIN VIBRATION DAMPER NO.1
4. REMOVE CHAIN SUB-ASSY
5. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR OR SPROCKET
6. REMOVE NO.2 CHAIN SUB-ASSY

a)Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise by 90° , and align an adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.


b)Put a bar ([diameter] 4 mm (0.16 inch) ) in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Remove the nut.


c)Remove the bolt, chain tensioner plate and spring.d)Remove the chain tensioner, oil pump driven sprocket and chain.

1. INSTALL NO.2 CHAIN SUB-ASSY

a)Set the crankshaft key into the left horizontal position.b)Turn the cutout of the oil pump drive shaft to the top.


c)Align the mark links (yellow colored links) with the timing marks of the sprocket as shown in the illustration.d)Insert the sprockets with chain to the crankshaft and oil pump shaft.e)Temporarily tighten the oil pump driven sprocket with the nut.


f)Insert the damper spring into the adjusting hole, and install the chain tensioner plate with the bolt.
Torque: 12 Nm (122 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)


g)Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.h)Put a bar ([diameter] 4 mm (0.16 inch) ) in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Install the nut.
Torque: 30 Nm (301 kgf-cm, 22 ft. lbs.)


i)Rotate the crankshaft clockwise by 90° , and align the crankshaft key to the top.

1. INSTALL CHAIN VIBRATION DAMPER NO.1 Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)
2. INSTALL CHAIN SUB-ASSY

a)Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC/compression.


1)Align the timing marks of the camshaft timing gear/sprocket and bearing caps (No. 1 and No. 2).


2)Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft and set the set key on the crankshaft upward.


b)Align the mark link (gold or orange colored link) with the timing mark of the crankshaft timing sprocket.


c)Using SST, tap in the sprocket.
SST 09309-37010


d)Align the mark links (gold or yellow colored links) with the timing marks of the camshaft timing gear and camshaft timing sprocket. Install the chain.

1. INSTALL CHAIN TENSIONER SLIPPER Torque: 19 Nm (194 kgf-cm, 14 ft. lbs.)
2. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR PLATE NO.1

a)Install the sensor plate with the F mark facing forward.

1. INSTALL TIMING CHAIN OR BELT COVER SUB-ASSY

a)Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the timing chain cover, cylinder head and cylinder block.b)Apply seal packing (diameter: 2 mm (0.08 inch) ) as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalentNOTICE:

• Remove any oil from the contact surface.
• Install the chain cover within 3 minutes after applying seal packing.
• Do not start the engine for at least 2 hours after installing.

c)Apply seal packing in a continuous bead (diameter: 3 to 4 mm (0.12 to 0.16 inch) ) as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent


d)Install the timing chain cover with the 14 bolts and 2 nuts.
Torque:
9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) for bolt A
21 Nm (214 kgf-cm, 15 ft. lbs.) for bolt B
43 Nm (438 kgf-cm, 32 ft. lbs.) for bolt C
9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) for nute)Install the stud bolt to the drive belt tensioner.
Torque: 10 Nm (102 kgf-cm, 7 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL V-RIBBED BELT TENSIONER ASSY

a)Install the tensioner with the bolt and nut.
Torque: 59.5 Nm (607 kgf-cm, 44 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH

a)Install the engine mounting bracket with the 3 bolts.
Torque: 54 Nm (551 kgf-cm, 40 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR

a)Raise the engine and install the engine mounting insulator RH.b)Install the engine mounting insulator RH with the 4 nuts.
Torque: 95 Nm (969 kgf-cm, 70 ft. lbs.) for nut A
87 Nm (888 kgf-cm, 64 ft. lbs.) for nut B


c)Install the steering gear return hose clamp to the frame with the bolt.
Torque: 8.0 Nm (80 kgf-cm, 69 inch lbs.)


d)Install the engine mounting insulator FR with the bolt.
Torque: 87 Nm (888 kgf-cm, 64 ft. lbs.)


e)M/T: Install the engine lateral control rod with the bolt.
Torque: 89 Nm (910 kgf-cm, 66 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL OIL PAN SUB-ASSY

a)Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surface of the cylinder block and oil pan.b)Apply seal packing in a continuous bead (diameter: 3 to 4 mm (0.12 to 0.16 inch) ) as shown in the illustration, and install the oil pan.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalentNOTICE:

• Remove any oil from the contact surface.
• Install the oil pan within 3 minutes after applying seal packing.
• Do not start the engine for at least 2 hours after installing.

c)Install the oil pan with the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.
Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)

1. INSTALL CHAIN TENSIONER ASSY NO.1
2. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

a)Install the sensor with the bolt.
Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) b)Confirm that the wire harness of the sensor is placed as shown in the illustration.

1. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

a)Install the crankshaft pulley.1)Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley, and side on the pulley.2)Using SST, install the pulley bolt.
Torque: 170 Nm (1,733 kgf-cm, 125 ft. lbs.)


b)Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise and disconnect the plunger knock pin from the hook.


c)Turn the crankshaft clockwise and check that the slipper is pushed by the plunger.

1. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER SUB-ASSY
2. INSTALL IGNITION COIL ASSY Torque: 19 Nm (194 kgf-cm, 14 ft. lbs.)
3. INSTALL VANE PUMP ASSY
4. INSTALL GENERATOR ASSY
5. INSTALL ENGINE WIRE
6. INSTALL FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
7. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET NO.2 RH Torque: 52 Nm (531 kgf-cm, 38 ft. lbs.)
8. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING STAY NO.2 RH Torque: 64 Nm (653 kgf-cm, 47 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD W/BRACKET

a)Install the engine mounting control rod with the 3 bolts.
Torque: 64 Nm (653 kgf-cm, 47 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL EXHAUST PIPE ASSY FRONT
2. INSTALL FRONT WHEEL RH
3. INSTALL HOOD SUB-ASSY Torque: 13 Nm (133 kgf-cm, 10 ft. lbs.)
4. ADD ENGINE OIL
5. CHECK FOR ENGINE OIL LEAKS

[geoff5093]

Originally Posted by JSM1284

Have Fun

Hmmm... I should do that on my parents car during my lunch break.