First Time doing a Front Brake Job?

[SilverCamry02]

I have a 2002 Toyota Camry with about 46,000 Miles on it. I know soon
I'll have to replace the brakes. I've decided I want to start
saving some money and start doing maintenance myself. I
thought I'd give this a go. I had some questions for some seasoned
Camry mechanics.

1. What tools would I need to do the job?

2. Do I need to do the rear brakes too?

3. Do I need to replace the rotors too?

4. Anything else that would be good to do soon on a Camry? Spark Plugs, Wires, Air Filter, etc?

5. What should I watch out for on Camrys while doing this job?


I've talked to mechanics about brakes and they've told me that
they usually never do the front and rear brakes at the same time.
Front brakes take most of the wear and tear. One mechanic said he
doesn't think he's every done a brake job where he replaced both
front and rear brakes at the same time.

In terms of tools I have 2 sets (4) Jackstands. I also have a good
Craftsman mechanics tool set. I know for doing the brake bleeding
I'll need to get a brake bleeding kit or some hose and a torque wrench. I do have a decent tool set but what would be useful and helpful to have? I saw this Digital Caliper was on sale at Harbor Freight for $10. Do you think this would useful to have? Then I can measure wear.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=47257


Thanks

[toyomoho]

No special tools should be required; normally the front brakes wear out faster as the do most of the braking. No need to remove the brake line, thus no need to bleed the system.

The rotors would only need replacing if they are damaged, warped or too thin because they have be resurfaced too many times. If you don’t feel any brake pedal pulsation or steering wheel vibration when braking they mostly are not warped.

Suggest purchasing pads from Toyota, as they will have holes for the anti-squeal springs, etc.

Removing and replacing the pads is a straightforward and pretty easy job but needs to be done a certain way with all the parts put back correctly. If you send a private message with an email address I can send a file with brake system info that you will need.

Spark plugs should last 100K, wires longer. You can inspect the air filter. If an automatic might change the fluid if hasn’t been replaced.

The caliper you show would be OK for measuring wear but normally something like a 1 inch dial micrometer would be used. This tool allows measuring a specific spot on the rotor. Harbor Freight also sells these at a reasonable price.

And do a TN history search as brake jobs questions are common.

[SilverCamry02]

Shouldn't I at least have something to measure the wear of the pads and rotors? That way I don't need to guess and I can know anytime I have the wheels off how much more life I have.

I don't think I'll worry about the rotors, but I'm not sure if I'll spend money for OEM Brake Pads. It seems a lot of people seem to think getting aftermarket ceramic pads is actually better than the original pads. Shouldn't spark plugs be replaced at around 60,000 miles?

I did download the manual from this site which should keep me covered. I also have a Haynes manual (it's for an older model).


Thanks for the Advice!

[marc780]

1. What tools would I need to do the job?

-14mm box wrench or 3/8" socket set for removing the caliper.
-tire lug wrench or electric impact wrench (dont even consider using the wrench that came with the car as it is useless)
-a cheap c-clamp, large, for pushing the piston back in the caliper
-fine emery cloth for sanding the rotors (if they are in good shape otherwise you need:
17 mm wrench for getting caliper mounting plate off to get rotor off to change it)
-some rope or zip tie to hang the calipers from the coil spring, using the rope and not the hose to hang it
-a can or two of brake cleanaer spray
-paper towels or clean rags

Do I need to do the rear brakes too?

Only if they are worn out too. You should have at least 5 mm lining left (i change mine closer to 10 mm left).

Do I need to replace the rotors too?

again, only if they are worn out. they need to be smooth and almost like new, no deep ridges, heat discoloration, bumps or cracks. I seldom bother having them turned, i have found its usually not worth the cost. If in doubt, change them too, they are cheap nowadays (I paid $30 each for my last rotors for my solara last year)

Anything else that would be good to do soon on a Camry? Spark Plugs, Wires, Air Filter, etc?

the plugs should be good for many more miles, you are nowhere near the change interval. Your car does not have spark plug cables, it uses coil packs and an electrical connector and so no plug wires to change, ever.
I change the air filter if i hold it up to the sun and cant see light through it, or just if it looks dirty.

What should I watch out for on Camrys while doing this job?

The brake job should be pretty straightforward stuff. the only camry specific thing you should do is probably clean the throttle body inside and the IAC. Do a search there are many posts on how to do this and it is relatively easy to do. You will need a can of seam foam spray, some rags, a screwdriver and a tooth brush to do this little chore.

[Stevo_Echohb05]

In my experiance OEM pads last longer and do not squeel but you can use jobber discs to save money

[toyomoho]

A digital caliper is great for measuring round objects or the thickness of a uniform material. If you look at the service manual it states to measure the rotor thickness at more then one location across its face. If you use a caliper it will only measure the highest point, in most cases this would be the outside of the rotor where the pads do not contact the rotor and hence there is no wear. A dial micrometer can be moved in and out to measure a specific location.

Doubt if you would see any benefit at 60K, maybe 80K from an emissions standpoint. The plugs can easily go 100K with no noticeable degradation in performance.

Toyota brand pads are a little more expensive but when combined with the brake shims and anti-squeal springs they greatly reduce the chances of squealing. The also provide decent braking for a stock car. The area to save money is by using aftermarket rotors that do a good job and are a lot cheaper.

[bobright]

Hi, I'm getting ready to do my 1st all 4 wheel pad replacement on an 02 Camry SE (just bought dealer pads front and rear). Is the caliper bolt a 14mm or something else? If you have any pointers I would appreciate your comments.
Bob (Connecticut)

email: bob.right@comcast.net

[bobright]

I could also use any brake info you have as I am too replacing all four wheels pads and maybe rotors as well on a 2002 Camry SE (V6). Please sent to bob.right@comcast.net. Thanks,
Bob

[bobright]

Did you ever receive any brake replacement info. I am doing brakes on a 02 SE Camry. Any pointers?
Bob
bob.right@comcast.net

[Mike Murrell]

If this task is new to you, I would go to an auto parts store and purchase a Haynes Repair manual for your year/make/model

Brake job photos in the Haynes books are pretty good, as are their step-by-step instructions.

You may also download the entire factory service manual(FSM) for your vehice at:

https://techinfo.toyota.com

Last time I was inside that site, $10 would buy a 1 day subscription. If you have a fast enough network, you can easily download the FSM amd all TSBs(trouble service bulletins) for your vehicle.

[TRD VVTi]

Using the search function would easily answer all the questions asked as this is another very common subject. I did the search for you and came up with 65 threads to look at. I'll post a couple of links for the lazy people that just want answers and won't help themselves. Notice at the top of the forum there is a thread for newbies to read BEFORE they post. It's a thread explaining the search function and why you should use it.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t145546.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t164888.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t195234.html

If you did a search in the General Camry forum you would come up with even more information. Doing brakes is pretty basic and applies to nearly all years.

You should have a manual for your vehicle if you're going to work on it.

Originally Posted by marc780

The brake job should be pretty straightforward stuff. the only camry specific thing you should do is probably clean the throttle body inside and the IAC. Do a search there are many posts on how to do this and it is relatively easy to do. You will need a can of seam foam spray, some rags, a screwdriver and a tooth brush to do this little chore.

Please, NEVER use marc780's advice. He actually knows very little on constantly hands out incorrect advice.

You should only use a specific throttle body cleaner when cleaning the throttle body. Also, it's impossible to clean the IAC of a car that doesn't have one. Never insert a screwdriver into a throttle body either, you could easily damage it.

marc780 should not be trusted for his technical advice. He apparently has a mission to give out bad information to others.

Here is some more of his technical advice blunders:

1)Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t217403.html

2) Just moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=217414

3) Impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...20#post2041920

4) You also recommend that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECU. The ECU decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECU what position the TB is at.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t218561.html

5) Here you suggest that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying
Quote:
remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...36#post2023636

6) Here marc780 states that this person should the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=233743

7) In this thread he can't even recognize a radial pull on his OWN CAR!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...63#post2194663

8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t235139.html

9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t220898.html

10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t157470.html

11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t191294.html

12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t238748.html

13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t238753.html

14) marc780 strikes again! This is a thread where he tells someone to dilute coolant that comes premixed (Toyota Super Long Life). As usual, he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about but passes along inaccurate information anyways.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2244220&posted=1#post2244220

15) marc780 never gives up. Here he states that an IAC motor is basically a engine temperature regulated choke and that it has vanes in it. He also suggests to check a cold start injector on a '99 Solara.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t240257.html

16) Here marc780 tells someone to clean the IAC on a car that doesn't even have one, as well as use a screwdrive in the throttle body.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2252015&posted=1#post2252015

[TRD_EarBanger]

I'll post a couple of links for the lazy people that just want answers and won't help themselves.

Would you mind just copy and pasting the articles and mailing to me on your dime? Im pretty damn lazy.

[i 1a 05 Camry]

wow...seems like TRD VVTi is on marc780' ass ....good job =]

[james399]

here is a tip for you first time brake guys... when you are removing the two bolts to remove the caliper, only remove 1 bolt and loosen the other, (you should remove the bottom and loosen the top, lol...) that way it will swing open and you can just replace the pads inside... then you do not have to worry about hanging the caliper on something, dropping it, ripping your brake line.. etc etc etc....

**most important thing** compress the piston inside the caliper before removing the pads...


hope that helps you guys... a suggestion, if you have never done it before, even if you have a manual, ask a friend who has done it to supervise... BRAKES ARE IMPORTANT...

and remember no grease on the rotors (that was for you trd... lol...)

[lollonais]

Something I do with ABS equipped cars, loosen the fluid cap on the back of the caliper before pushing the piston in. Too much back pressure when pushing in to fast can damage ABS systems and you will get that spongy pedal feeling.