5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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its an avital 2100 series. just the basic keyless entry system with alarm. it has dual stage shock sensors, single chirp for minor bumps and a full 6 tone alarm for heavier ones. the place i got it installed at did a great job too. now that i have my car protected its time for new wheels
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'08 Camry 5-Spd
Blue Ribbon Metallic
Current Mods:
Weapon R SRI, DC Sports header, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, TRD clutch kit, 18x8 Konig Heatsink wheels w/ 225/45/18 Kumho Ecsta 4x tires, SE grille, Custom Vibrant header-back exhaust (hi-flow resonator and cat, muffler, 2.25" pipe)
almost forgot about the wheel locks. my camry didn't come with keyless entry or any of that on it so i didn't really have a key to convert. i think viper makes a kit that upgrades the oem system that maybe you can use those keys for
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'08 Camry 5-Spd
Blue Ribbon Metallic
Current Mods:
Weapon R SRI, DC Sports header, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, TRD clutch kit, 18x8 Konig Heatsink wheels w/ 225/45/18 Kumho Ecsta 4x tires, SE grille, Custom Vibrant header-back exhaust (hi-flow resonator and cat, muffler, 2.25" pipe)
Yep, Viper 330V will work with your existing controller key. I had one installed about a week ago.
"Not without problems," though -- it has been a bit touchy. Plenty of that has been my own doing, though -- my usual habit is "close door / hit the lock button / start car." But, "hit the lock button" arms the system! Start the car, and you're in your driveway trying to get the dang alarm to shut off!
So, I'm still trying to 'get retrained.' But, the alarm has done a few unexpected things that didn't seem to be my fault at all -- I've just got to figure out what's going on when something odd happens. It definitely does, though, work with your existing controller key!
I was looking for an alarm that would work wit my existing controller...thanks! How much u get it for by the way?
Cheap, cheap, cheap. Most shops can probably "get it" for around $100. My shop charged me an even $300 for the alarm and installation -- installation costing a bit more than it might, due to the fact that I wanted a "trunk pin" to get the trunk wired into the system, too.
This was the first time my shop installed one of the things, so they weren't too familiar with it in regards to some of the 'problems' I've had. I took it in, and it took us a little fumbling around to understand how I was essentially "re-arming it" when I'd jump in the car and hit the lock button, for instance. So, I think any 'problems' I've had have been more along the lines of "learning what it does" more than anything else. It is a little different from the average alarm, in that it responds to the OEM door locking, rather than "controlling" the door locking itself. So, there's more of a sense of having to learn "it'll do this if the car does that," compared to a 'normal' alarm.
Otherwise, the thing is like any other normal alarm -- it's definitely an effective car alarm!
I saw one on ebay for about $50...how much u think they could charge for installation? Also, where are the sensors located? Did u connect the siren or does the horn just beeps when the alarm goes off?
I saw one on ebay for about $50...how much u think they could charge for installation? Also, where are the sensors located? Did u connect the siren or does the horn just beeps when the alarm goes off?
The Viper 330V comes with an alarm siren, which will do arm/disarm chirps -- I expect you could get it to use the horn instead of the siren, but I presume you're like me, and would prefer the siren. It has a starter kill and a shock sensor -- looks like the sensor is built into the controller unit itself. It also comes with a very bright blue LED status indicator -- you can sure see that thing blinking when the car's in the dark in the garage, for instance.
Mainly, I presume it's so cheap because it doesn't include any "transmitter fobs," because it's designed to work with the one you already have on your key.
It's hard to say how much an installer would cost -- I think you could call my installation an even $200, which might be more like $150 if I didn't have the truink pin -- maybe even less. The total installation time for my system was about 4 hours, though of course I don't know if they did 18 different other things while my car was in their shop. And, again, probably getting the wiring back to the trunk for the trunk pin might have been more work than all of the rest of the system, combined.
I always go to a shop that I've used for about 15 years -- it's a locally-owned shop that also sells high-end home audio equipment, and they've got adult installers who have been with them for years -- no "punk kid doing his first alarm installation on YOUR car" business like at the big box stores. They usually give me a good deal, but maybe some other place could go lower -- I couldn't care less, as this place is resonably priced, and you just can't find installers who would do a better-quality job than these guys do.
Hope this helps, and gives you a bit of perspective from my experiences....
Thanks alot man ur a big help. I'm really looking forward into getting an alarm. I'm just thinking if i should get this one or the viper 2 way. They sell me that one for $400 installed.
Yep, Viper 330V will work with your existing controller key. I had one installed about a week ago.
"Not without problems," though -- it has been a bit touchy. Plenty of that has been my own doing, though -- my usual habit is "close door / hit the lock button / start car." But, "hit the lock button" arms the system! Start the car, and you're in your driveway trying to get the dang alarm to shut off!
So, I'm still trying to 'get retrained.' But, the alarm has done a few unexpected things that didn't seem to be my fault at all -- I've just got to figure out what's going on when something odd happens. It definitely does, though, work with your existing controller key!
Last year I went into a local car audio shop and asked if they had the Viper 330V because I wanted to re-use my factory transmitters. The owner told me they don't recommend nor install them because of the problems they've had in the past. In the case of your car, it seems very odd that locking the doors from the inside arms the alarm.
Anyway.. I ended up going with a different Viper system. Just thought I'd chime in - in this case, it might be worthwhile to invest in a Toyota OEM VIP alarm system.
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'05 2AZ-FE @ 47K miles | '95 1MZ-FE @ 92K miles moving forward
Last year I went into a local car audio shop and asked if they had the Viper 330V because I wanted to re-use my factory transmitters. The owner told me they don't recommend nor install them because of the problems they've had in the past. In the case of your car, it seems very odd that locking the doors from the inside arms the alarm.
Well, I think you've stated a PERFECT example of the "problem" with the 330V -- "understanding how it works." It just doesn't work the same way as "normal" alarms do.
For instance, "How could it possibly know if you activated your door locks via the key fob or via the button on your door?" The bottom line is "it can't possibly know." So, if the car is unlocked, and you "lock the door," the 330V will arm. It doesn't matter if you do it via the key fob or the button on the door. What it CAN understand is that, once you start the car, it won't arm if you then lock the door.
So, already, I've armed it a dozen times, since I just jump in, "hit the lock button," and then start the car. I'm finally starting to get myself retrained, and within a week or so, I expect I won't have that "problem" anymore, as I'll start the car first, and THEN hit the lock button, and everything will be fine.
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Originally Posted by islandboy57
Just thought I'd chime in - in this case, it might be worthwhile to invest in a Toyota OEM VIP alarm system.
Well, there are a few things to consider about the VIP, at least presuming that it's the same as the system that comes standard with the XLE:
1. No "siren" -- it's all horn honking.
2. No visual indicator that it's actually armed -- all you have is the same "immobilizer" light up in the dashboard.
3. Cost, cost, cost -- two or three times or more than just about any aftermarket system. And "glass breakage sensor" is extra.
4. And about all I can recall about the "glass breakage sensor" is seeing dozens of messages about trying to test it to see if it actually works, generally without success.
All I can tell you is that I certainly considered "adding some kind of aftermarket system" to the XLE's built-in system, because I didn't think it was really "enough" to really protect the car as well as an aftermarket system does.
Getting back to the 330V, other than "my" problem with hitting the lock button before starting it, I've just had a couple of problems with the siren going off right after arming it -- like after yanking on both the driver door handle and the rear door handle to make sure it was all locked. It's like the system is kind of "touchy" for the first few seconds after arming it. So, hopefully I'll learn what I'm doing when that happens, and figure out how not to set it off. And, I can always go back to my shop and let them try to help me figure that out. "The owner's manual" sure doesn't help -- it's ultra-skimpy.
In the end, the 330V certainly works, and it sure doesn't cost very much. I really do believe that any "problems" with it have to do with understanding how it "reacts to what the car's locking system does," because you really are working with two systems that are interacting, rather than one system that's controlling everything. I sure didn't want to pay for the VIP system, nor have the dealership tear into the car to install it. I'm willing to invest some time learning how the 330V works, and I expect that it'll get the job done quite well enough, without too many unexpected shenanigans. I'll certainly be glad to keep on discussing my 'adventures' with it here in the forum!
The quote for a Toyota OEM alarm for me was $400. Same price as going aftermarket but as you mentioned, it lacks some features so I went aftermarket. I did ask my local car audio shop what specifically the problem was with the 330V because maybe *I*, the customer, wouldn't mind it if it were just small annoyances. They explained it's the actual system hardware. I called another car audio place and they also would not install or sell the 330V.
I Googled a bit and found this interesting post by someone who sounds rather knowledgeable:
Quote:
Mastercaster, the fact you are having problems with the Viper 330V should come as no surprise. This system is identical hardwarewise to the Hornet 727T -- only the branding badge differs. Interestingly, the Viper branded system carries a higher SRP, due to the brand alone (again, the hardware is the same). Anyway, the 330V/727T hardware is only a minor update to the problem-plagued Hornet 700T. The fundamental problem that caused the 700T to fail remains in the new hardware.
The entire concept behind the functionality of these DEI "keyless upgrade security" systems is flawed. Consider these points about the 330V/727T:
1) Must learn lock & unlock signals separately.
2) You have to consider 3 different keyless systems, per the DEI manual.
3) Requires you to connect a Disarm Defeat Wire.
4) No intelligent signal monitoring, which is why an adapter is included (see page 17 of the 330V installation guide).
5) Only can deal with HI or LO signal states.
I've just had a couple of problems with the siren going off right after arming it -- like after yanking on both the driver door handle and the rear door handle to make sure it was all locked. It's like the system is kind of "touchy" for the first few seconds after arming it.
I just read the original post again in the link I posted in my last message. Coincidentally that person is having the same problem you are - once in a while the system will go off seemingly right after arming it.
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'05 2AZ-FE @ 47K miles | '95 1MZ-FE @ 92K miles moving forward
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