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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-24-2008, 06:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2002 camry XLE steering problems

When turning a corner, left or right, at a couple spots during the turn, the steering is very stiff and also has to be helped back thru the stiff spots to get going straight again. It is noticeably stiffer when cold outside or when first starting out. I have heard from one source that drawing out the rack and pinion fluid and replacing with new may help. Please reply if you have this problem, or if you can provide any answers. johnkreutzkamp@hotmail.com
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I think there was a TSB (service bulletin) about this that might apply to your car. (I have 2002 V6 but not this problem yet). I did a search on this site but no specific mention of it.

Anyway here are some things that might cause the problem:
- Loose or worn power steering belt
- Fluid dirty or has water in it (yes changing the fluid might help, i'd try a synthetic ATF at least in the winter))
-the steering column has flexible joints in it (similar to the u-joints on a rear wheel drive car), these may need replacing
-rubber steering shaft seals (the ones that seal it where it goes through the firewall) may be cracked, broken, dirty or sticking and need cleaning, lubricating with silcone spray or changing
-low tire pressure
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc780 View Post
I think there was a TSB (service bulletin) about this that might apply to your car. (I have 2002 V6 but not this problem yet). I did a search on this site but no specific mention of it.

Anyway here are some things that might cause the problem:
- Loose or worn power steering belt
- Fluid dirty or has water in it (yes changing the fluid might help, i'd try a synthetic ATF at least in the winter))
-the steering column has flexible joints in it (similar to the u-joints on a rear wheel drive car), these may need replacing
-rubber steering shaft seals (the ones that seal it where it goes through the firewall) may be cracked, broken, dirty or sticking and need cleaning, lubricating with silcone spray or changing
-low tire pressure
Here we have a guy giving advice that can't even figure out by himself that his power steering belt needs to be tightened.

The OP's problem more than likely isn't:

- Loose or worn power steering belt: If this was the problem it would be more frequent and not just happening in a couple of spots during the turn. Noise would also likely be part of the concern, which apparently it isn't.

- Fluid is dirty or has water in it: The fluid would be constantly dirty and the water would be constantly there. The OP never stated that the car was submerged in water or that the cap was missing. An '02 likely does not have enough mileage to completely ruin the power steering fluid.

- the steering column has flexible joints in it, these may need replacing: There are not any flexible joints in the steering column. There is a steering shaft between the column and the rack that may be the problem, but that's not likely the problem either. Any problem with the steering shaft would have been felt as much less of a problem before it reached the point the OP says his problem is.

- rubber steering shaft seals (the ones that seal it where it goes through the firewall) may be cracked, broken, dirty or sticking and need cleaning, lubricating with silcone spray or changing. This usually just causes noise. It is unlikely that it would restrict the movement of the column.

- low tire pressure. This wouldn't even cause the OP's problems. You're reaching because you don't know what your talking about (as usual).

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkreutzkamp
When turning a corner, left or right, at a couple spots during the turn, the steering is very stiff and also has to be helped back thru the stiff spots to get going straight again. It is noticeably stiffer when cold outside or when first starting out. I have heard from one source that drawing out the rack and pinion fluid and replacing with new may help. Please reply if you have this problem, or if you can provide any answers. johnkreutzkamp@hotmail.com
First I would make sure that none of the steering or suspension is binding. Part of your concern is that the steering doesn't self center very well and you need to assist it. Binding of the steering/suspension could cause this, as well as the caster being off. You will need to lift the car to check.

Then I would check the pressure output of the power steering pump. Turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly observing the pressure readings.

If all of those things check out OK, I would check out the rack. I'm guessing that's your problem.

You can easily disconnect the power steering rack from the rest of the steering and suspension componants by simply removing the outer tie rods from the knuckle. This will allow you to isolate the rest of the steering and suspension from the rack itself, easing diagnosis.

I don't recommend following any advice from marc780 as he FREQUENTLY gives out faulty information to others. Here's a sample of his poor advice and lack of knowledge:
Quote:

1)Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t217403.html

2) Just moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.

2002 camry low rpms

3) Impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...20#post2041920

4) You also recommend that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECU. The ECU decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECU what position the TB is at.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t218561.html

5) Here you suggest that an I4 2AZ-FE has a timing belt and cover by saying
Quote:
remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...36#post2023636

6) Here marc780 states that this person should the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.

So I just got a 02 Camry. now what?

7) In this thread he can't even recognize a radial pull on his OWN CAR!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...63#post2194663

8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t235139.html

9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t220898.html

10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t157470.html

11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t191294.html
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Last edited by TRD VVTi; 02-26-2008 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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