2004 camry oil pan gasket leak

[night_sky]

Is it weird that a 2004 Camry has oil leak? 4 cy, only 35000miles.

I just got my oil changed, has 1qt oil left, so the leakage is about 1qt every 2 months. I can see the oil puddle on the drive way also. How much is it to fix this? I am in bay area, ca. can any one provide info on a good mechanic-- reasonablely priced?

Thx a lot!

[danorthface]

is the bolt just not tight enough? Maybe you can try relacing the rubber gasket if it has one..

[CharmCityES]

always ake sure the drain plug is tight and the gasket is replaced every time the oil is changed
as for the oil pan gasket, it leaks but not rnough to cause that much oil loss....it tends to seep oil...it doesnt have a true gasket, but a liquid called FIPG (fixed in place gasket) thats almost like a glue, but it breaks down over time and leaks...its easily replacable, but the oil pan must be dropped, cleaned, the old gasket scraped off and mount area sanded and smoothed out, and a new coating of FIPG put on before remounting

[marc780]

If you are not planning to fix it yourself, id at least clean the engine super good with simple green and find out exactly where the leak is coming from before you take it in to get it fixed.
Likely spots, in order of most likely and easiest to fix: drain plug, oil filter gasket (an old one may be stuck on, causing the leak, so i'd check for that), oil pan, valve cover, front crankshaft seal, front cam seal, oil pump (its under the timing belt cover).

[TRD VVTi]

Originally Posted by marc780

If you are not planning to fix it yourself, id at least clean the engine super good with simple green and find out exactly where the leak is coming from before you take it in to get it fixed.
Likely spots, in order of most likely and easiest to fix: drain plug, oil filter gasket (an old one may be stuck on, causing the leak, so i'd check for that), oil pan, valve cover, front crankshaft seal, front cam seal, oil pump (its under the timing belt cover).

Go away marc780. The OP doesn't have a timing belt or even a timing belt cover...

Review your bad advice again:

Quote:
1)Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t217403.html

2) Just moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.

2002 camry low rpms

3) Impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...20#post2041920

4) You also recommend that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECU. The ECU decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECU what position the TB is at.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t218561.html

5) Here you suggest that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying
Quote:
remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...36#post2023636

6) Here marc780 states that this person should the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.

So I just got a 02 Camry. now what?

7) In this thread he can't even recognize a radial pull on his OWN CAR!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...63#post2194663

8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t235139.html

9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t220898.html

10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t157470.html

11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t191294.html

12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t238748.html

13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t238753.html


night-sky: Are you not in the powertrain warranty period (5 year/60,000 mile)? If so, it will be covered.

If not, it's super easy to do yourself. Just remove the pan, clean the pan and the block, apply FIPG or Permatex Ultra Black to the pan, install the pan, and torque to the proper torque spec. It's literally that easy.

[JSM1284]

Service and RepairREMOVE OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG AND DRAIN OIL.

1. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSY

(a)Remove the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.


(b)Insert the blade of SST between the crankcase and oil pan. Cut off applied sealer and remove the oil pan. SST 09032-00100NOTICE : Be careful not to damage the contact surface of the cylinder block and oil pan.

INSTALL OIL PAN SUB-ASSY

1. INSTALL OIL PAN SUB-ASSY NOTICE:

• • Remove any oil from the contact surface.
  • Install the oil pan within 3 minutes after applying seal packing.
  • Do not start the engine for at least 2 hours after installing.

(a)Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the cylinder block and oil pan.(b)Apply seal packing in a continuous bead (diameter: 3 mm to 4 mm (0.157 in.) as shown in the illustration, and install the oil pan. Seal packing: Part No.08826-00080 or equivalent


(c)Install the oil pan with the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.
Torque: 9.0 N.m (92 kgfcm, 80 in..lbf) INSTALL OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
Install a new gasket and oil pan drain plug with a new gasket.
Torque: 25 N. (255 kgfcm, 18 ft.lbf)

[night_sky]

thanks for all the info, I really appreciate. But I dont think I can fix it myself I'v never touch the engine before, have no idear how to do it, --- it may seem easy to you guys

I think clean the engine before I go to any mechanics is a good idear. Do I need to get under the car to do the cleanning? if not, I can try.

[HotRocks]

I have a 1999 Camry with a leak that appears to be at the oil pan.
Does the 99 Camry use FIGP or a regular gasket?

Mr. JSM1284
Do you have any diagrams for the oil pan for my 99 Camry ?
One more question .
I there another way/tool to remove the pan from the block other than using a SST tool which I don't have .

Thanks
Hot Rocks

[eaglesvr]

In my Camry 02 I4 it was exactly the issue of permanent oil loss- about o.5 qt per 2 weeks. There was no noticeable leakage in some spot but all surface between the pan and alloy piece was covered by thick layer of oily dirt. After re-sealed- no oil loss anymore. Not a hard job at all - but a little bit dirty.

[LoweredX10Sively]

Originally Posted by night_sky

thanks for all the info, I really appreciate. But I dont think I can fix it myself I'v never touch the engine before, have no idear how to do it, --- it may seem easy to you guys

I think clean the engine before I go to any mechanics is a good idear. Do I need to get under the car to do the cleanning? if not, I can try.

night_sky... TRD VVTi makes a very valid point in the post above... based on your model year, you should be covered by the factory powertrain warranty (60 months / 60,000 miles; internally lubricated components of the engine & transmission).

[HotRocks]

Anyone ?
Or should I start a new thread ?

HotRocks

[JSM1284]

4 Or 6 Cyl?

[JSM1284]

Originally Posted by HotRocks

I have a 1999 Camry with a leak that appears to be at the oil pan.
Does the 99 Camry use FIGP or a regular gasket?

Mr. JSM1284
Do you have any diagrams for the oil pan for my 99 Camry ?
One more question .
I there another way/tool to remove the pan from the block other than using a SST tool which I don't have .

Thanks
Hot Rocks

It uses FIPG.

You dont need a SST, a wooden wedge or plastic wedge would work just fine so you dont damage the contact surfaces.

[JSM1284]

1. DRAIN ENGINE OIL
2. REMOVE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE
3. REMOVE NO.2 EXHAUST MANIFOLD STAY AND LH STIFFENER PLATE
4. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE BRACKET, OIL PAN INSULATOR AND NO.2 REAR END PLAT
5. REMOVE OIL PAN

• 1. Remove the oil dipstick

• 1. Remove the 17 bolts and 2 nuts.

• 1. Insert the blade of SST between the cylinder block and oil pan, and cut off applied sealer and remove the oil pan. SST 09032 - 00100 NOTICE:

• • Do not use SST for the oil pump body side and rear oil seal retainer.
  • Be careful not to damage the oil pan flange.

1. INSTALL OIL PAN

• 1. Remove any old seal packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the oil pan and cylinder block.

• • Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and sealing groove.
  • Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material.
  • Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surface.

NOTICE: Do not use a solvent which will affect the painted surfaces.

• 1. Apply seal packing to the oil pan shown in the illustration. Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent

• • Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 3 - 5 mm (0.12 - 0.20 inch) opening.
  • Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
  • Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall the cap.
  • Install the oil pan with the 17 bolts and 2 nuts. Uniformly tighten the bolts and nuts in several passes.

1. Install the dipstick.

• 1. INSTALL NO.2 REAR END PLATE, OIL PAN INSULATOR AND EXHAUST PIPE BRACKET
  2. INSTALL LH STIFFENER PLATE AND NO.2 EXHAUST MANIFOLD STAY
  3. INSTALL FRONT EXHAUST PIPE
  4. FILL WITH ENGINE OIL
  5. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS
  6. RECHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL

[HotRocks]

It is a 4 cyl
Thanks alot for all the info.

Hot Rocks