5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Planning to flush my radiator, as of right now i have tooken my radiator out since it have a crack, i might just patch it and used it for a while til i get a new one but not sure yet.
When i am going to reinstall it, there not going to be any coolant in the tank.
i would like to know if i need to disconnect any hose while flushing the radiator,
Do i just leave the cork valve open.
also would the car need to be on, or just fine off.
any advise or where to seek more information will be helpful
I'd just run clean water from a hose through it while it's off the vehicle. If you mean to flush the entire cooling system then that is something different. To really clean a radiator requires removing the tanks. (not that I'm an expert)
Dave is right, a really good flush can only be done by a radiator shop and if it has reached that point where it needs it its probably about due for repair/replacement anyway.
I have tried many patches from the auto parts store - all the glues and the other junk you can buy. None of them are worth a nickel and if stop the leak it'll only be for a short while. The only permanent repair is soldering the hole shut.
I'd compare the cost of having the radiator repaired vs a new one. If price is the major concern to you right now i'd even consider a junkyard radiator.
i have consider about the auto junk yard, just dun have the time to go there yet, what is a good aftermarter radiator maker?? toyota want close to 400 dollar for it oem one.
I've never seen an aftermarket replacement radiator that is as good as the factory radiator. Performance radiators are of course, but cost much more. Your car is new enough that a used one will probably work out fine.
Personally, I don't use used parts and use upgraded performance parts or new OEM.
As far as flushing goes: Why do you need a flush? Do you have buildup in the cooling system? I perform regular maintenance on mine and never have to flush the cooling system. My Formula has 243,000 miles on it and I only drain and fill the cooling system. There is no buildup in the system and even the cast iron block doesn't have rust.
If your system is clean, a simple drain and fill with the proper Toyota coolant will be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc780
The only permanent repair is soldering the hole shut.
Why do you even reply with tech advice? You can't solder a PLASTIC radiator tank...
EDIT: Here's an updated list of your incorrect technical advice:
Quote:
1)Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.
2) Just moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.
3) Impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.
4) You also recommend that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECU. The ECU decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECU what position the TB is at.
5) Here you suggest that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying Quote: remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.
6) Here marc780 states that this person should the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.
8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.
9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...
10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.
11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!
12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:
13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.
Why not run it by a radiator shop? I had a leaking top tank replaced and the rad cleaned for under $150 and it's held up for many years and miles. (And he pulled and installed it.)
so when reinstalling my radiator, all i have to do is fill ip up with toyota red coolant, no neeed to mix it with water???
I can't recall what year your car is. Red (Toyota Long Life) you mix 50/50 with water. Pink (Toyota Extra Long Life) comes premixed, you just fill it up.
Be sure to let the car run for some time and hold a high idle after it's fully warmed up to bleed out any air that's trapped in the system. Put the heater temperature selector on hot also.
I've never seen an aftermarket replacement radiator that is as good as the factory radiator. Performance radiators are of course, but cost much more. Your car is new enough that a used one will probably work out fine.
Personally, I don't use used parts and use upgraded performance parts or new OEM.
As far as flushing goes: Why do you need a flush? Do you have buildup in the cooling system? I perform regular maintenance on mine and never have to flush the cooling system. My Formula has 243,000 miles on it and I only drain and fill the cooling system. There is no buildup in the system and even the cast iron block doesn't have rust.
If your system is clean, a simple drain and fill with the proper Toyota coolant will be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc780 The only permanent repair is soldering the hole shut.
Why do you even reply with tech advice? You can't solder a PLASTIC radiator tank...
EDIT: Here's an updated list of your incorrect technical advice:
Quote: 1)Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.
2) Just moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.
3) Impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.
4) You also recommend that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECU. The ECU decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECU what position the TB is at.
5) Here you suggest that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying Quote: remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.
6) Here marc780 states that this person should the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.
8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.
9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...
10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.
11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!
12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:
13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.
alright just pull back the old radaitor with a patch, there hno leak but, the temp gauge is shooting up hot. where can this problem come from?
There is probably an air pocket in the cooling system. Make sure it's as full as you can get it, turn the heater on hot, and raise the idle to help bleed out the air. It does help slightly to have the front of the car raised slightly.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
