5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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I just joined the forum and I've tried searching for the past 40 minutes but can't seem to find a how-to write up on doing a coolant flush on a gen5. I've got an 05 LE and I was wondering if anyone could point me to a step by step write up.
I assume I can just pick up some coolant from the dealership?
While I'm at it anyone have suggestions on what spark plugs to get?
While I'm at it anyone have suggestions on what spark plugs to get?
NGK Iridium IX.
But unless you've got something like 100,000 miles on your car, which I doubt you do since its only 3 years old, its highly doubtful that your plugs need changing.
__________________ 2009 Audi TT 2.0T --- THE BEAST! 2002 LE 4Cyl --- Gone, but not forgotten. 06/28/09
Glaring blue HID bulbs are NOT classy, and don't make your car look nice, no matter what that kid in the Civic told you.
But unless you've got something like 100,000 miles on your car, which I doubt you do since its only 3 years old, its highly doubtful that your plugs need changing.
+1
The coolant is probably fine also.
You shouldn't need to flush the cooling system either. Simple drain and fills should work just fine as long as you keep up with the maintenance.
You probably aren't in need of a coolant service either, unless you've really racked up the miles.
I drain the radiator with engine cold. Then fill with plain water. Run engine until hot and thermostat opens (about 10 minutes ought to do it). Shut off engine, drain radiator again. Start engine and add water as quickly as you can (never add water to a hot engine unless it is running, you risk cracking the block if you do!). Repeat once more or until it comes out clean. Drain radiator again. Fill with straight coolant, engine runing, NOT 50/50 coolant! This way the concentration of coolant to water will be prety much correct.
If you are doing it by the numbers (taking the engine coolant capacity and cutting it in half, then adding that amount of coolant), add a little bit more coolant than 50/50 because of residual water left in the block, and your concentration will be about right.
No reason to use flushing chemicals unless the system is very filthy, in which case it may be too late anyway, but worth a try. If you use a chemical be sure to flush out every trace of it before adding the final fill.
I drain the radiator with engine cold. Then fill with plain water. Run engine until hot and thermostat opens (about 10 minutes ought to do it). Shut off engine, drain radiator again. Start engine and add water as quickly as you can (never add water to a hot engine unless it is running, you risk cracking the block if you do!). Repeat once more or until it comes out clean. Drain radiator again. Fill with straight coolant, engine runing, NOT 50/50 coolant! This way the concentration of coolant to water will be prety much correct.
If you are doing it by the numbers (taking the engine coolant capacity and cutting it in half, then adding that amount of coolant), add a little bit more coolant than 50/50 because of residual water left in the block, and your concentration will be about right.
No reason to use flushing chemicals unless the system is very filthy, in which case it may be too late anyway, but worth a try. If you use a chemical be sure to flush out every trace of it before adding the final fill.
You fail AGAIN. Most '05 and up Toyotas have pink Super Long Life Coolant and not the red Long Life Coolant.
Toyota Super Long Life Coolant comes premixed, you can't purchase it straight. Your super great idea won't work, as usual...
I will add this reply to you long list of stupid advice though. Hopefully you will stop posting your inaccurate technical advice that frequently leads people in the wrong direction.
Updated list of inaccurate/stupid advice by marc780:
Quote:
1)Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.
2) Just moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.
3) Impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.
4) You also recommend that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECU. The ECU decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECU what position the TB is at.
5) Here you suggest that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying Quote: remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.
6) Here marc780 states that this person should the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.
8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.
9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...
10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.
11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!
12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:
13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.
14) marc780 strikes again! This is a thread where he tells someone to dilute coolant that comes premixed (Toyota Super Long Life). As usual, he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about but passes along inaccurate information anyways.
I haven't posted here in months and return to find that TRD-VVTi is still a world class asshole.
I'm a world class asshole for pointing out that someone has no idea what they're talking about over and over again? It would seem to me that advice is what's being sought, and it should be pointed out when it's incorrectly given.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Murrell
I guess some things never change.
You're right. Some things never change. I will continue to post information as accurately as possible and point out when it's inaccurate. It doesn't matter who posts the information, myself included.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Murrell
It continues to amaze me that the moderators on this forum tolerate his abusive manner.
I don't doubt that you are actually amazed. Clearly you don't understand what an abusive manner is. My manner isn't abusive. However, yours is. Your reply makes that point clearly. Read mine again. There isn't any attack. Just facts and observations made based on those facts. Your attacked me be calling me an asshole.
Get it right. To do that you will have to look beyond yourself.
sorry i have to agree with TRD here....he is a seasoned technician, and is full of useful and correct knowlege and has helped me with an issue i was having....id take his advice above all others
You fail AGAIN. Most '05 and up Toyotas have pink Super Long Life Coolant and not the red Long Life Coolant.
Toyota Super Long Life Coolant comes premixed, you can't purchase it straight. Your super great idea won't work, as usual...
I will add this reply to you long list of stupid advice though. Hopefully you will stop posting your inaccurate technical advice that frequently leads people in the wrong direction.
Updated list of inaccurate/stupid advice by marc780:
Thank you, TRD!!!
__________________
2004 Toyota Camry LE
1999 Honda Accord LX
1992 Subaru Loyale
2010 Subaru Forester
You shouldn't need to flush the cooling system either. Simple drain and fills should work just fine as long as you keep up with the maintenance.
You probably aren't in need of a coolant service either, unless you've really racked up the miles.
i'm close to 100k, so i planning on doing a lot of maintenance...
i read the sea foam thread, plan on doing that,
my brakes are a little spongy, so im gonna bleed,
i plan on getting my tranny flushed (i do this every 50k) at dealership
do i need to do that injector cleaning or will the seafoam take care of that?
should i have the dealer flush my coolant, or should i do it myself, and also with the pink, how would i go about flushing...
i'm close to 100k, so i planning on doing a lot of maintenance...
i read the sea foam thread, plan on doing that,
my brakes are a little spongy, so im gonna bleed,
i plan on getting my tranny flushed (i do this every 50k) at dealership
do i need to do that injector cleaning or will the seafoam take care of that?
should i have the dealer flush my coolant, or should i do it myself, and also with the pink, how would i go about flushing...
any other recomended maintenance??
thanks...
You shouldn't need to bleed your brakes unless you have a leak or ran it low on fluid somehow.
You shouldn't need to flush your transmission every 50K miles. If you have them flush it, don't let them add any chemicals. If the fluid is in decent condition just do a drain and fill.
Fuel injector designs are much better than they used to be. I never use anything to clean the injectors other than adding a can of SeaFoam and fuel injector cleaner to my gas every once in a while. Adding them at at oil changes would be a good practice.
You shouldn't need to flush your cooling system unless there is a lot of contamination. Simply draining it and refilling should be adequate.
You shouldn't need to bleed your brakes unless you have a leak or ran it low on fluid somehow.
You shouldn't need to flush your transmission every 50K miles. If you have them flush it, don't let them add any chemicals. If the fluid is in decent condition just do a drain and fill.
Fuel injector designs are much better than they used to be. I never use anything to clean the injectors other than adding a can of SeaFoam and fuel injector cleaner to my gas every once in a while. Adding them at at oil changes would be a good practice.
You shouldn't need to flush your cooling system unless there is a lot of contamination. Simply draining it and refilling should be adequate.
Now would be a good time to put plugs in it.
ok, the brake is way too spongy, and i'm thinking that there is some air trapped in there... original brake fluid, never changed...
2. i think i should get the coolant flushed, cuz i haven't once drained and filled, and has the originial coolant in it... i know... i know...
3. as for the tranny, the pan/gasket has to come off anyway, one of my sensors is bad, so i figured, might as well change the filter, and clean while i'm at it...
let me know what you think.. spark plugs are on the list...
marc780 - to each his own, but I find it easier to drain the block and the radiator and not just the radiator.
I haven't posted here in months and return to find that TRD-VVTi is still a world class asshole.
I guess some things never change.
It continues to amaze me that the moderators on this forum tolerate his abusive manner.
Totally Agree!! Totally abusive! And his mod buddy just lets hims slide.
His lame a$$ excuse to me in another post is that he is "blunt".
He said it I didn't, but numbers 2 and 3 below are dead on!
Thanks for standing up and saying something.
blunt/blʌnt/Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[bluhnt]Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciationadjective, -er, -est, verb, noun –adjective 1.having an obtuse, thick, or dull edge or point; rounded; not sharp: a blunt pencil. 2.abrupt in address or manner: a blunt, ill-timed question. 3.slow in perception or understanding; obtuse: His isolation has made him blunt about the feelings of others.
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